I just bought a emisar d4v2 in brass and with a E21A 3500k tint that I was hoping to use as an edc flashlight to replace my zebra light sc600 4000k flood. It has a nice tint and I like the interface much better than the Zebralight but i didn’t realize how heavy the brass would be. I’ve had brass lights before but this one is super heavy. Too heavy to EDC.
I like the tint but think I would like something in 3000k with super high CRI with the same shape and side button as the D4V2. Preferably without the colored lights that stay on all of the time.
If you’re about to buy another flashlight then maybe just buy the aluminum D4v2 version with the e21 2700k. And as Yokiamy said, aux can be turned off.
If you want brass, write to Hank for a customized aluminum D4v2 in the selected color with a brass head.
2700k is nice, I have a light in that but want something in between 2700k and 3500k. Does he ever do customers with a mix of emitters? 2 2700k and 2 3500k?
Yes that sounds like the perfect option thank you yokiami!! Why do you suggest the 2000k and 4500k over the 2700k and 4500k neutralfan?
Also would someone recommend the e21a over the 9080? What is the difference?
2000K is a very unique CCT so that’s why I would go with the 2000K/4500K option. I have just one flashlight with 2000K (quad E17As) and I like it a lot. And the more difference between the CCTs when mixing, there should be more of a negative DUV.
But if you don’t want to go down that low and increase your lumens, then go with the 2700K/3500K option. Or choose other options that you think would be best.
It’s amazing that Hank has so many options to choose from, but for some, it may be too confusing.
1, If you came from Zebralight I understand why you’d feel the brass D4 too heavy. Zebralight are super lightweight compared to pretty much anything else. You’ll likely find the Aluminum D4 still heavier than SC600, although considerably lighter than brass D4.
2, I had a brief discussion w/ Hank about brass / copper head on D4, KR4, etc. The reason Titanium D4 and KR4 come with Copper / Brass head by default is because Titanium does extremely poor in terms of heat dissipation and heat sink. If you’re getting an Aluminum D4 and want sth lightweight then maybe get it in full Alu. Compared to Copper, Alu has inferior heat dissipation but SUPERIOR heat sinking. And the overall thermal performance difference between a full Alu and an Alu w/ Copper head is tiny. For me definitely not worth the extra weight.
3, Consider E21a ONLY if you never use / need turbo mode or max ramp. the max lumen on E21a is much, much lower than even other super high CRI emitters. On my DT8s (basically a D4 w/ 8 emitters) E21a measures less than 60% of 219B, and less than 40% of SST20 CRI95. If you only use it for sustained low / mid brightness then you’ll be fine, since it puts out less lumen by drawing less power, not by being less efficient.
4, If you plan to achieve your target CT by mixing CTs and do “tint” ramping then you should be aware that while you’ll achieve the target CT (Blue / Yellow), you’ll be getting a very different Tint (Green / Red) than stock emitters w/ single CT. In short: it will be more red / magenta than single CT LEDs.
The upward curving line is stock single CT LEDs, and the red / blue straight line is CT mix LEDs.
5, If all you want is a fixed 3000k light, not the whole range of 2000k - 4500k. Then I suggest you order a non-tint-ramping D4 w/ two 2700k and two 3500k (or two 2000k and two 4500k whichever you like) instead of a tint ramping version. From my understanding tint ramping version due to driver limitation has lower max lumen than regular version, along with other limitations. So if you’re sure you only need the mixing, don’t buy the ramping.
I ordered a tint ramping D4v2 this weekend with 2700K and 4500K 219B’s
I was very tempted to buy the E21a version (i actually still would like one) maybe when i receive it, i will need to buy the E21A version as well
if you want a single consistent CCT,
219b 3000k is very nice, for my personal taste .
The Tint DUV of 219b is farther below the BBL than E21a. Both are 9080 LEDs. Both have similar maximum outputs.
mixing w E21a will be less pink than mixing w sw45k (because it has extra pink Tint DUV).
If I was going with a Mix, I would choose E21a 2000k with E21a 5000k. That allows mixing to 3000k without excessive pink tint.
mixing is more complicated to operate, the button clicks are more numerous… If you dont want to do a lot of clicking… dont buy a mixer. In fact, dont buy an Anduril light…
for ultimate simplicity, I like the Jetbeam RRT-01 (with a 219b LED swap), better than D4V2, especially if you dont care about the Disco Aux Lights and all the flashing blinkies, in D4V2.
otoh, D4V2 w mixing is the latest and greatest state of the art… It basically gives you the option to change CCT at will
D4V2 in aluminium (116g w battery) weighs a LOT less than Brass (205g w battery)… iow, the brass is 77% heavier than the aluminum version. I agree brass is “too” heavy for me to EDC.
I would recommend against a tint mix light. If you want a 3000K light, then buy a 3000K light. With a mix you’ll never really know what CCT on your on because your eyes always adjusting for light color temperature.
… unless you run your tint mix light at the lowest at the warmest possible tint. Then you know that the tint is whatever you selected as your warmest LEDs.
I have a D4V2 with sw-35 and sw-45k, it is not a tint ramping light! Would not give it up for the word. The CCT is amazing and very stable thru the range of brightness.
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