TheKlone35 - modded

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DrJones
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TheKlone35 - modded

I finally took the time to mod the TK35-clone - I changed the battery setup to parallel and used an NANJG 105C with one additional AMC7135 for 3.15A. I also put an XM-L T6 3C into it.

 

Performance: Nice! The total output went up from 640 to 930 arbitrary units, the throw from 230m to 280m (13kcd to 19kcd).
That's only 5% less than the real TK35, but with a nicer tint Smile 

UI/modes: The mode button is connected to a star and thus to the µC, but I have yet to write a suitable firmware for it. I'm currently thinking about what UI to implement. Maybe fixed modes like the original, maybe ramping, maybe both... I'll see.

EDIT: Did it, programmed a nice UI for it (lumo35drv), see post #10.
EDIT: Hardware modding instructions are in post #14.

Edited by: DrJones on 03/29/2012 - 05:55
how2
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Nice I could never do that.

Do not have the skills.

dorpmuller
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how2 wrote:

Nice I could never do that.

Do not have the skills.

Sure you could... just practice on a junker until you get better at it.

I didn't know how to mod either at one time.

Rich

"I am the flashlight king! I can light anything!"

dthrckt
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or you could just break most of your stuff, and once in awhile get something right, like me.  I like to make the same mistake 2 or 3 times so that I REALLLY lurn good Sealed

Dr. Jones - thanks for posting - at < half price, this form factor becomes very attractive!

I'm confused though (as usual).  With your mod, you're saying the mode button and the power buttons work as designed, but you just haven't finalized a decision on modes?  ie, you're getting whatever modes are assigned to the star you used?

H-m-l suits my taste, most of the time, although sometimes I'd love 5 mode w/ super high and super low, so eventually I'll read all the instructions on programming and get the clip.

Is it too late to take a picture of the other side of the nanjg...just so I don't misunderstand and make a mistake, should I end up getting one of these?

You sure do answer a lot of questions for me - THANKS Sealed

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DrJones
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The mode button is connected, so it's electrically prepared to be used, but the current program just ignores it, as it's just a standard program for single on/off-button lights.

I think I decided on a UI: two main modes at 20%/100%, switched by short clicks on the mode button; ramping up&down (alternating) with longer presses; strobe and beacon hidden behind a few short clicks.

dthrckt
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since you can, why not Sealed

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JohnnyMac
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Good stuff, DrJ! Always like seeing what you are up to. Smile

DrJones
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dthrckt: Sorry, forgot your last question. On the other side I soldered the "V+" from the power switch to the center of the driver (where I had removed the spring), and the wire from the mode button leads to the 4th star (directly below the little brown capacitor).

Note however that I had to make changes to the small board on the other side as well (where the switches are) and that there are now 4 wires between front and back of the battery holder, and I had to make some holes bigger to let the wires through -- all because I had to change the serial setup to a parallel one. It's not just a simple driver swap.

If you want to do the same, I can post a more detailed description. I also could send you a programmed driver if you want (as soon as I finish the program).

cheaplite
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very nice work!

i was considering bying this lite. in ur opinion it's not comparable to the fenix until modded?

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DrJones wrote:

dthrckt: Sorry, forgot your last question. On the other side I soldered the "V+" from the power switch to the center of the driver (where I had removed the spring), and the wire from the mode button leads to the 4th star (directly below the little brown capacitor).

Note however that I had to make changes to the small board on the other side as well (where the switches are) and that there are now 4 wires between front and back of the battery holder, and I had to make some holes bigger to let the wires through -- all because I had to change the serial setup to a parallel one. It's not just a simple driver swap.

If you want to do the same, I can post a more detailed description. I also could send you a programmed driver if you want (as soon as I finish the program).

thanks - I might just do that - when my flashlight budget resets eom Smile 

Either this light or the mg x-thrower - and the runtime/flexibility of this is pretty attractive.  The only thing is, I wish that it had some knurling, or something...but that's aesthetics, since I doubt grip is an issue (although, obviously, I'm guessing...).

EDIT: Actually, when you spin yours up, you might as well do a second.  I'll paypal you for the driver and install it when I get around to buying the light.  Thanks!

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DrJones
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I just finished my TheKlone35-Firmware, and I am very pleased with it. Best ramping system I've seen so far - thanks to the mode button.

I call it lumo35drv.

There are two 'standard' levels, 25% and 100% (more can be added), and a short tap on the mode button switches between them.

When you press the button a bit longer (>0.5s), it begins to ramp up (visually linear), starting from the brightness level you just were in. If you release and press again (>0.5s) it ramps down instead. I never found it easier to fine-adjust the brightness to my wishes; if you want it just a tad brighter or less bright, you don't have to start over.

The end of the ramp is indicated by a short blink. If you press the button even longer (>1s while already at the end), you get the extended modes, where strobe and beacon is (more brightness modes can be added). A short tap switches between the extended modes, a longer tap gets you back to standard mode.

The main (power) button is a forward clicky, so you have a momentary operation ("tactical"), too. 

dthrckt
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BRILLIANT Cool

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DrJones
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cheaplite: Unmodded it's 2/3 of TK35's performance, has noticeable PWM and no memory.

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Nice, I like the way you implemented ramping, it goes both ways and not just up or down like some budget lights do!

DrJones
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If you want to do the same, here are the instructions (I hope I didn't forget anything):

  • Desolder the two metal bars from the driver (which connect back and front) and take all three boards out.
  • Desolder all components from the two round driver boards (SMD).
  • Cut the marked connection on the small switches board on the shown side and on the rear side.
  • Bore up the holes on the side with the 3 wires (on the switch board, too); see images.
  • Note that the "V-" wire will be connected to 4 spots: two on the small switches board (see image); to the hole through which it gets into the driver compartment (not shown) and to the outer ring of the new driver, directly above that.
  • Solder wires (V-, V+, B+, M) to the switches board as shown. Remember which is which. Insert both boards.
  • Solder V- to it's hole on the lower round board; let 5mm protrude.
  • Solder the B+ wire to "VCC" on the original board, as shown.
  • Desolder the spring from the NANJG, solder the V+ wire to that spot.
  • Solder M (from the mode button) to the NANJG's 4th star, which is connected to ATtiny's B3 pin as active low. By 4th star I mean the one near the brown capacitor (labelled C1). 
  • Solder the driver's border to the V- wire

Old (left) and new (right) wiring:

Commented pictures:

df2dot
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very nice Dr Jones! 

this is a great post- i think i could even do it... maybe Laughing

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Well the Dr is in. Really nice work!

Really Good that you showed the modding instructions too.Smile

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Thanks.

It's very interesting ...

benjamin_ng
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DrJones, wow.  this is very impressive and thanks for sharing.

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Great job Dr Jones!

I've got one of these lights with a driver that never did work, so it would be good to give a try, I am not sure I will be able to do it, but I haven't got much to loose.

A driver with ramping would be  great, but I am afraid I do not know how to program it nor have the tools, so It will be a KD 8*7135 V2 I've got around here with high and med modes.

 

 

DrJones
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Note that a standard driver (with unmodified firmware) will not make any use of the mode button. I could send a readily flashed driver though, if you want to do that mod.
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Dr Jones has been gracious enough to sell me some flashed drivers and I've ordered the light.  

Although he offered customization, I went w/ the same UI he chose.  I debated adding a moon low, but the reality is, this is a high power light and I almost always have some other (low power) light handy when I need that function.

When I do this mod I'll post a step by step - for the benefit of others, but more so that (hopefully Wink ) Dr Jones can verify my (mis)understanding/work before first power on Innocent

I can't believe there isn't more interest in this.  Not that it isn't a bit more risky/challenging than your average driver swap...but I imagine the result is going to be well worth the effort.

This might end up my main camping light, in place of my xtar d06.  It is tough to beat the instant access to 20+ levels and the ruggedness of that light - but it runs at 2.5A.  I'll add 2 or 3 chips to Dr. Jones' driver, and still have more runtime than the D06...plus the beacon mode is going to help me find my campsite (from my boat, since the DRY and flex360s are for landing).

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I'd consider this mod too, but I've got a lot ahead of this one.  Been following the posts on this clone, but haven't posted.

-Garry

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a dozen other projects will get pushed aside (literally...on my bench lol) when this light arrives.  but, this spending has to stop, if I want to keep eating human food anyway.

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This is awesome.  I still have yet to build a light utilizing a secondary switch.  All I need to do is wire up the secondary switch to the 4th star and ground, so that it will pull low when pressed, correct?

I don't plan on doing the TK35 clone, probably just a Maglite.  Would you be willing to post up your code? (I just didn't want to bother figuring out the code to access the pin for low.  I know it's not hard, I was just lazy).

pounder
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man we have some smart boys here..nice job!

yavi
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DrJones wrote:
Note that a standard driver (with unmodified firmware) will not make any use of the mode button. I could send a readily flashed driver though, if you want to do that mod.

I am unsure I will wire it correctly, if you want I can send  you the full battery host, let me know if you can do it, and give a price for it if possible.

I am not very good soldering little things, doing it on thick wires, led stars I can do it, but smaller than that me and my terrible solder are pretty bad.

DrJones
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JonnyC: Yes, the button pulls low, the ATtiny's internal pull-up resistor holds it high if not pressed.
Checking the keypress is simple:

    if ((PINB&(1<<3))==0) {do something} 

The pull-up must be activated by  

    PORTB |= (1<<3);

while still being set to input. 

yavi: sending a PM.

fibra
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Dr Jones, this is great! Smile

What is the current draw when flashlight is inactive?

Can it be used without main switch?

Would you be so kind to publish the code?

DrJones
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This is a two-button light, so there's no other "inactive" mode other than being switched completely off. My TheKlone35 firmware does not support lights without power button.

I don't have any light with only a momentary button yet, except the SR KING, but it performs so well I don't want to mess with it, even though I'd like a better UI. 

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ahhhh, then we'll be praying it breaks on you so you can properly sort that UI for us InnocentWink

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