As many of you know these little Sipiks aren’t exactly the most finger-friendly-user-friendly-EDC kinda lights. They’re sharp & protruding little cusses in spots. Finding a holster that’s small enough yet not cumbersomely too big is a bit tough. And that’s because there are too many ‘protrusions’ in the wrong places for that deal.
So I decided to take my UltraOK ZS-2 and ‘dehorn’ it. By dehorn I mean lathe-out sharp fins, protusions, whatever that gets in the way of a quick unholstering & holstering. This does that now beautifully.
If you have a lathe this is a relatively short job. The rest involves a buffing wheel & jeweler’s rouge polishing compound.
(I took a lot of pics because I’m practicing with this cheapo Coolpix Nikon. Bear with me if they seem redundant.)
Before…………….
And after………………
Couldn’t have been able to even begin to stick the original version in this EDC Led Lenser David-19 holster……
With my EDC David-19 which I carry with the 10-B Cree.
Looks very very nice and shiny. But won’t it run hotter now with less surface area and no fins? Also I personally like the raised ring near the switch as it allows you to hold it easily in a cigar type of grip and activate the switch without firing the light across the room infront of you.
Does look good and bet it was fun doing it though.
“Looks very very nice and shiny. But won’t it run hotter now…………………………”
I ran it for 20 minutes (not in my hand) on a TF Flaming 14500 and it felt just comfy warm. I think this fin-mania when we’re especially talking about AA Q5 lites is a bit overblown. IMO if the pill is screwed into the head and mates well with all surfaces then it’s still gonna dissipate heat away from the led well enough. Ok, maybe there’s a degree or two higher difference but does it really make a difference in the big scheme of things? Also, had I held it in my hand for 30 minutes I bet my body would’ve essentially replaced any benefit those fins gave to absorbing and dissipating therms.
I clean & electrical contact lube every light now thoroughly with CRC 2-26. Get the crud out of the threads and mating surfaces and most importantly to help prevent any oxidation or contamination in general that’ll interefere down the road with having a reliable light. A cleaner surface means a better heat transferring surface much less better conductivity. I think 2-26 helps with a number of aspects: more efficient heat elimination and better running switches to name the major two.
Btw, I very seldom run any light for more than 5 minutes a stretch.
Now from a tacticool standpoint ya it certainly needs fins alright. :bigsmile: As far as the ‘cigar grip’ dealie yeah ya got a good point but I found it to be a PITA for holstering. Now I modded my switch a touch to rest deeper into the silicone button so it takes little pressure to activate. Now if this were solidly weapon-mounted that taint an issue. Hey, maybe you need a lighter spring in there Chicken D if yer shooting it across the room like a weapon or something? lol
Looks very classy now! And of course it's always nice to create something a little unique.
I was wondering about the heatsinking on a 14500 too. I wonder if removing so much ano (paint?) has helped to improve it in this area?
The "strike bezels" on a couple of mine have some sharp edges but I can see that it would be difficult to address this without exposing the convex lens to scratches.
Bear with me if they seem redundant.)
