When Eric did the UltraFire 2100 light group buy/build I picked up 3 different lights.
All the lights are 1st class for sure except for the switch.
I’m a electrican and on different days I may use the light 10 or more times a hour and the switch not working unless you bang the light on a solid object is a problem.
I have cleaned and done everything else to make these switches work but the repair will only last a short time.
So has anyone forund a replacement for these switches that will fit???
I keep meaning to order one of these for mine, but still waiting for the right light special to show up so I can combine shipping.
Ordered a switch with some misc parts today, looking forward to swapping it into the light. Think I’ll try that o-ring suggestion to allow tailstanding, too.
Ah, you used a GID o-ring with black cover. Realize it may have just been convenience, but does the GID show up at all if you bath the cap in light for a few minutes?
After looking at mine a bit more, I’m guessing no.
I’ve used the same oring trick on a couple of lights now, works a treat for a light that previously would not have tail stood. I use –12 refrigeration orings, because I’m a fridge engineer and have them lying about……think their 16mm.
I’ve used the same oring trick on a couple of lights now, works a treat for a light that previously would not have tail stood. I use –12 refrigeration orings, because I’m a fridge engineer and have them lying about……think their 16mm.
From Alex’s pics above, the metal sleeve outside of the plastic also comes out so that the Romisen can go in. When I pulled the plastic part out to clean the switch, I seem to remember there being holes in the metal under the plastic where the sleeve could be removed also. Thus it would be a two step process to remove the plastic and the metal sleeve or cap inside the outer tailcap.
Without tearing mine down again, calipers say the OD of the aluminum collar inside the tail is about 19mm.
Actually, no holes in mine either. Fortunately I was able to get it to turn out with a small 90 degree pick wedged on the inside bottom thread (closest to the switch cover end of the sleeve/collar).
The pictures above show all of the components reassembled.
If pressure and the pick didn’t work, I was going to notch it on opposite sides with a Dremel to use a coin or blade to spin it out.
The plastic switch itself has 3 width measurements to consider, in addition to length.
- Lower body is oblong, but the large direction is ~12.5mm and 13mm might fit
- 2nd or upper stage of the body is 6.9mm and this is a press fit into the aluminum collar so I’d consider this one very important
- Switch head is ~4.5mm but this dimension is not critical like the other 2 above.
The switch length is about 8.2mm in the off position and about 6.5mm fully depressed.
Perhaps somebody can use these measurements to see if another might substitute if you or others can’t get the outer aluminum part of the switch out of the tail cap.
Edit:Erik posted in the other thread that the 502b switches work:
A couple posts down he said he was hoping to find a better quality switch. If he’s still away it may be a few more days before he can give an update.
Posted earlier:
I just looked through DX (I thought somebody had posted a suggestion but it’s gone) with the following thoughts:
- 502b switch looks to be too wide if really 15mm - it might work if the grounding tabs are folded down and over, and if the collar is a correct fit (or is filed/sanded to size)
- X8 might work (or be slightly too big), but it would be direct replacement like the Romisen
- Not sure about the 12mm square electrical connections and there is no collar to help stabilize the switch
- Top section on the X6 looks similar but may be sized like the 502b
to get the metal sleeve that holds the switch out you have to remove the plastic retainer, remove the plastic switch then drill 2 small holes on each side of the metal sleeve then use a spanner wrench to unscrew the sleeve.
another method is to pull the rubber boot out from the other side, do it carefully so it won’t tear once out the sleeve will become loose.
I’ll add I think Alex suggests you drill where I suggested notching - in the sides of the sleeve.
If drilling down at the bottom where the switch fits you have to be very careful not to go through the outer tailcap - there is maybe about 1.5mm next to the center hole before you reach the outer tailcap (and I think it likely you would go through the switch cover).
I didn’t have any luck with pulling on the boot from the outside, but I was being very careful to not rip it even though I have replacements on the way with my switch.
Here is a pic of my switch with the spanner holes at the bottom, with the holes in place you can get the metal sleeve out using tweezers like the ones in the picture.
