Second P60 module built/tested/working. Not tested on an actual TV (yet…), but the IR LED’s flashing away as it should.
I’ve got a PM from someone who wants just the P60, I’d rather flog it with the WF-501B. Reason being I changed the spring from the stock Nanjg one to a different one so it would work with the stupid black “rivet insert” that’s in the 501. If the P60 faces a cell directly, the new spring could step sideways and touch something it shouldn’t, causing a shorted cell or damaged driver - the ‘rivet insert’ has a ridge that prevents this from happening. I’m also not the greatest fan of the 501, so this is a dumb attempt to get rid of it
Also got a PM from someone who wants a reprogrammed driver and nothing else. I’ve got a single spare one, I’ll PM you back.
After this, it’ll be a few weeks at least - I’m starting work on the Osram LED version. It’ll have at least 2x more optical output power, much better throw, and be much easier to build. I have to design/order PCBs and get LEDs, a couple new hosts to try, batteries, more drivers, etc. I’ll make a new thread when things are up and running again.
The project is working beyond expectations. Last night I turned off a front window TV in a cellphone store from 200-300ft away. I haven’t even put the aspheric lens on the light yet J)
Running the P60 by itself off a bench power supply at 4.2V, the pill gets warm but not hot - this is after banging out all 130 TV codes, which takes about a minute - the IR duty cycle seems sufficiently low that heat isn’t an issue. I burnt a finger attempting the same test on my XM-L P60, if that indicates anything.
I have 1 driver left that I can modify. I got a PM asking for it, responded and haven’t heard back yet. If I don’t get an answer, I’ll put it on the market for 15 bucks - if I end out banging these out in bulk, I’ll charge less. I put in a fasttech order last night for more drivers, blank P60s etc so I should be “back in business” in a few weeks.
I’ve also ordered Osram “Black Oslon” LEDs to experiment with. They’ve got a better viewing angle, 2x forward voltage (3.x volts), 2-3x more IR output power, and a smaller/better centered die that should allow better throw. Designing a PCB to hold it now, will be 0.8mm thick FR4 and 13.5mm diameter. Sadly nobody makes MCPCBs for Oslons.
Parts are in! Nanjg 105Cs, P60 inserts, Tiny85Vs, resonators, and 940nm “Black Oslon” IR LEDs.
Unfortunately nobody makes a PCB for the Oslon. I’ve got a 14mm FR4 PCB designed for the LED, but haven’t ordered it yet - I’m finishing up a couple other projects that I’ll order PCBs for at the same time. It’ll probably be a month or so before I’ve got PCBs in my hands.
If anyone wants a bare driver (Nanjg 105C with new uC, resonator and code), I can sell them now - 5 available, $15/pop. When the PCBs come in, I’ll sell P60 pills and driver+LED pairs - probably $30 and $25 respectively.
Also, the TV-B-Gone WF-501B is still up for grabs. $35+shipping. Driver needs a new spring if you want to use it in a different host.
nice updates
For the customn PCB: check out the seedstudio.com PCB manufacturing, pretty cheap. You get 10 boards for 10$ plus 4$ shipping.
Thats absolutely cheap if I consider what a single board CNCed 20mm round would cost here locally…
I’m fully planning to order from Seeed - I’ve ordered from them a few times now, and I’ve never been let down by their service or their quality. Them offering 0.8mm FR4 at zero cost is icing on the cake.
PCBs will end up being $1/pop assuming they send me 10, usually they send me 12-13. They don’t like making PCBs smaller than 20mm, so I might make a “dogbone” PCB with two LED boards on it, and cut it apart. So potentially <50 cents/card!
No updates, haven’t ordered the Oslon PCB yet. I’ve been doing a bunch of work on my house which has taken priority over flashlight related things, and I’ve got a few other projects that I want to fit in with the Seeed PCB order before I do it.
Currently banging out a small NiCd/NiMH charger PCB based on the Linear LTC4010 chip. I bought a NiCd cordless drill half a year ago, and the battery pack’s fried already from the crappy charger it came with - I’m going to rebuild the pack with fresh cells and smarten up the charger. Giving my handheld vacuum the same treatment afterwards.
The sinkpads are big - 21mm. Berquist makes a metal core PCB also, available for a buck at Mouser, which is 20mm. Unfortunately that won’t fit in a P60, and won’t fit in small/easily-concealable lights like a WF-602C etc. Might be good if you’re building a thrower.
Board’s designed and ready to order. I have to bang out two new designs, an audio amp and a timer for a farm application, both should be done within a week or so and I’ll order the Oslon PCBs at that time.
I thought the sinkpad i got is a normal star… Looks identical to my other stars… I will measure this out when I find my caliper.
If its not like you wish it email them and ask if they have what you need, they are normally very kind and helpful.
Just realized that the sinkpad connects the center thermal pad of the LED straight to the metal substrate - fine for a regular oslon square, but on the IR oslon the center pad is connected to the anode. Which would make the sinkpad live.
Not sure what the Berquist MCPCB (pn 804087) is like electrically, I’ll order one next time I make a parts order.
**Update: finally ordered the oslon PCB from seeed. Should have it in a couple of weeks.
Got a few other “for money” projects going on plus some renovations around the house, so the project’s been on the back burner and will be for the next little while. But hey, it’s a start.
Still have the TVBG WF-501B built using the DX IR LED. 30 bucks for the full light, or I’ll sell the pill for 25 (note that it needs a new spring). One available, shipping extra.
