Simple and necessary? changes to the HD Defiant Thrower.

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Hello,

I thought I would show a couple simple mods for the Defiant Thrower, from Home Depot. I see a couple things that would help and hopefully most people will be able to do them. (and some stuff some can't do, but might want to see).

My first concern was to see if the LED/star was making good thermal contact to the pill. It was not on the first light I got. Also, I can lessen the resistance in a couple of places, which would only improve the use with Alkalines, so let's get to it.

a1a

Here's the stock pill. You can use Needle Nosed pliers to turn the pill out, using the holes provided.

a1b

I de-soldered the wires and here's the problem. No thermal paste under the led and that is not good at all. It needs to be fixed.

a1c

Well, let's look at the rest, before we fix things. Here's the spring that fits between the driver and the switch. It has to be one of the longest I've seen. We can get rid of some resistance here.

a1d

Might as well do the Tail cap too.

a1e

Since the led was off, I decided that I would remove the stock wiring too and use something less resistant.

a1f

For the spring mods, I use Copper De-soldering braid.

a1g

I cleaned off the original solder and re-soldered with my 60/40. The braid is in place and current will flow thru it, before it flows thru the spring. That's the idea anyhow.

a1h

The tail cap spring has been done the same way.

a1j

The new wires are 22ga, 19 strand, silver plated, teflon coated and should be better to carry current, than the stock wires.

a2a

Star contacts re-soldered with 60/40

a2b

Since the reflector tightens down on the star, I am not using AA adhesive. Instead I am using thermal paste.

ooops

I have put on a very thin layer and I want to see if the star is touching the pill.

a2c

Well, I would say it is not. The star is too tight going down and it does not sit down flat. Also, I have seen many times, that the seat itself is not flat, but it is deeper in the center than at the outside. This is a problem with lathes. Over the years, I have seen it on many parts that were faced with a lathe.

a2d

I am using a sanding block and I will sand the edges of the star, to make it smaller in diameter. I only have to sand just a little to get it to fit in easily.

a2e

Well, that does look better. The rest of the problem is that the seat on the pill is not totally flush and I have no way to fix that easily, so it's going to end up being more thermal paste. Not the right way, but unfortunately, many times, it's the only way for most people, as we do not have the means to correct it.

a2f

Ok, the pill is back together and ready to go.

a2g

Another simple thing you can do, is to coat the threads with thermal paste, before screwing the pill in. It will help a lot for heat transfer to the body section.

a3a

There is not much you can do with the stock switch, to cut resistance, but I will show the removal, just so you can see it. This is the end that faces the batteries and it's where we remove the plastic switch support.

a3b

Bend the contact tab up and use a pair of needle nosed pliers to pull out the plastic piece.

a3c

It comes out easily and the switch falls out as well.

a3d

Remember which end of the switch is which. The end with the raised center is the end that goes to the Driver. The flat end goes to the batteries. They are different lengths and it won't work putting it together back wards.

a3e

The switch is a two piece housing and I am using an exacto blade to pry it apart at the seam. I pry a little at all four corners, so that I don't break the guide pins.

a3f

Here's the switch open. Remember there is a spring there. A tiny spring, that wants to fly out and run away into the darkest corner of your house/shop. The corner where you will never ever find it again, so as you open the switch, make sure you do not let the spring fly out.

There are the two contacts and a center "hat", along with the spring and the plastic button mechanism.

a3g

The "hat" is an issue, as it is rough and does not make great contact. I have tried to make new ones out of copper, but it just tears trying to stretch it to the shape. You can replace the flat contacts with copper.

a3h

What I do with the "hat" is to put a thin layer of solder on it and then use 1000 grit paper and steel wool to smooth it as good as possible. This photo is before sanding. Does it really help? Hell, I don't know, but it makes me feel better, LOL.

That's all that I have for you. If any of you other members have some easy and simple to do thoughts on this light, post them here.

Thanks,

Justin

2

Nice work OL, I would recommend modding it for direct drive though.

3

I didn't because I would not recommend it for everyone, only those that wanted to mod. I just don't feel comfortable saying that 4.5v direct is ok, especially with C Alkalines, that don't drop voltage near as quick as AA do.

But, you are more than welcome to explain it here, or link to how you did it, so members will know and can choose. It's all about choices.

4

Thanks, Old-Lumens. I can actually do some of these mods for a change...

5

I've been having my fun with switches too.. I'm still trying to figure out a nice way to replace the internals with copper. A copper disc with a hole in the middle has worked pretty good on the "hat"..

6

Many thanks for all your advice, O-L… your pics and explanations make the process easy.

7

For anyone wondering here some pictures for converting to direct drive are. (Not my pics)

Before:

After:

8

Nice work Mr Lumens. Your soldering as usual is outstanding. I tried the braid trick once and ended up with a solid spring.

scaru. Is that a new question on the bottom off your posts? I cant say that I have noticed it before.

9

It's been there the last month or so. ;)

10

i need to pick one of these up soon

thanks for the photos… looks like a good project light :slight_smile:

11

Copper is great, but I realize now, that it’s just not good for contacts since it tarnishes so quickly and then it does not make contact any more. I’m to the point that there isn’t anything that actually is low resistance And does not tarnish. I believe that’s why most all contacts, battery holders, springs are plated with chrome or gold.

I think of all the copper I have used and what happens when all those lights don't turn on due to tarnishing on the contact surfaces? I'm about ready to go to Nickel Silver for the contact surfaces.

12

Thanks Justin! I like looking at the "Innerds"!! I have some of those switches I think... never took one apart but I think they will be cleaned up in the future before being used.

Thanks for sharing. Dan.

Edit.... That concave surfacing job can be mostly eliminated in a couple of ways.... The best is to use an end mill where possible. The second...and the one I use the most is to first drill a hole (using any size endmill... not a drill) to the finished depth, or just less of the surfacing job. Then.... reverse the procedure as most operators do surfacing... most surface from the outside of the material toward the inside...but surface from the inside to the outside... this will eliminate a lot of that concave surface if you are careful and use a well shaped tool. I "Mis-use" a boring bar tool for this most of the time... a good heavy one!

13

Just a thought. Since you were reflowing the emittter on the star you could use some valve lapping compound and a small valve lapping tool to hand lap the surfaces. You probably cant buy a tool small enough for most stars, but someone with your ingenuity should be able to fab something up. You might even be able to silicone a wood dowel to the star for lapping and remove it when finished. Heck, drill a hole in the end of the dowel and you could probably do it with the emitter still on the star.

14

Excellent guide Old-Lumens! I do the copper braid on all springs in my lights. The spring is the worst conductor in the light for sure; it’s made of steel. Even gold plated ones are not much better.