OK, this damn tailcap just will. not. come. off. I've tried tapping with a screwdriver handle, pounding with a screwdriver handle, fairly extreme heat, and clamping in a vise and going at it like a wolverine attacking an old bone... nothing I can do will get it to budge.
It IS threaded, right? And not pressed on and/or splined or something? Do they use the same glue as on the driver board, that clear plastic glue-like stuff? What am I doing wrong here, guys?!
I don't think it has a tailcap... I may be wrong though as I don't have one.
Yep, it does... the spring plate down in the end has tabs that extend outside the I.D. of the main battery tube, and is captured by the end cap, which is attached... somehow. And there's a seam visible between the endcap and main tube on the outside.
OMG!!! bwah ha ha ha…. Thank you for the laugh guys.
The spring pcb in the tail is screwed into the body. The endcap covers it all and is screwed down over it all. It has a tight o-ring to seal it. If you have a rubber strap wrench made for oil filters you should be good to go. Just think of it as a really tight lid on a jar.
Is there a reason you need to get into it or are you just curious? There is really no room to do any mods with it.
On my original and a later black SRK just screws off no glue but has o ring
Thanks... yeah, oil filter wrench or a jar lid cheater was my next plan, don't have either at hand though.
I need access to the spring plate because... it's my light and I have this compulsive need to disassemble everything, just because. lol. But really, plans are for emitter upgrade on copper and a driver mod to ~4a per LED, I need to get at the springs to add some copper braid and just generally make sure the plate/tube contact is optimal.
Hello BLF,
I am from Czech Republic and watch BLF using Google translator, I can not English. I bought my first flashlight SRK and batteries NCR18650 Panasonic Rechargeable 2900mAh 3.7V Protected 18650 Lithium Batteries. SRK batteries are quite long and springs to create a hole in them, so I made adjustments SRK do not move the battery to the driver and offer the photo (mobile phone). If you want someone to inspire, to produce and make available to the BLF and link to photo http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b515/kujan/SRK%2Bmode/20130314_175745_zpsf9d45a0d.jpg
Excellent pictures kujan! Very useful.
Welcome to BLF! You’re doing fine with the translator too. 
Hmm . . . once I finally got my own SRK I didn't think the tail cap did come off. Would certainly make tail cap currents a lot easier!
-Garry
Thanks for the great pics kujan. Welcome to BLF and we hope to see more of you in the future.
Finally got it off. Strap wrench wouldn't do it, it would turn, creaking and popping, just a little ways and then stop, and the strap would slip. I had it clamped so tight in the vise it shredded the wood blocks I used for padding, and it was still slipping. That's what bent the lanyard thingies. At that point I just used a pipe wrench. I'll mill off the lanyard loops and strip the anodizing, and then polish it, I guess.
Yeah, see, I have learned to be suspicious about build quality and stuff. Know what I found once the cap was off? The screws holding the contact plate to the tube were loose, so loose that I was able to unscrew them with the tip of my finger, no screwdriver needed. So that was a poor connection, and would have been a real problem with a modded driver and trying to shove 12 amps into the LEDs.
comfychair,
Sorry that you had to go through that, and mess up a presumably fairly new SRK. I don’t have an SRK (yet), but I have been having similar problems with my brand new Niteye TF25, an apparently bad tailcap switch, and there’s no apparent way to remove a retaining ring that’s holding the switch.
Luckily, the vendor has already sent a new tailcap to replace it, other wise, I’d on the tailcap like you were, vise and all (probably with similar results).
Good persistence though :)!
Jim
My change tailcap SRK to insert batteries
Glad you got there in the end ,krypton factor or what
