Ultrafire LZZ-F13 - a cheap Shadow J07 clone

A new UltraFire flashlight found its way to me and I wrote this review about it.
I start with some technical information:

Name: UltraFire LZZ-F13
Dimensions: 15,1cm x 3,30cm (tube), head (outside) 4,08cm, diameter (inside) 3,40cm
LED, driver, modes: XM-L U2 CW, a generic driver (don’t find any brands or logo on it), 5 modes high, mid, low, strobe, sos, next memory mode
Additional information: 26650 / 18650 / 3x AAA, black, aluminum bezel (flat), SMO reflector, IPX7
Special point: Red tailcap, has only GITD o-rings
Accessories: 18650 to 26650 adapter, 3x AAA tube, small keyring
Price and shop: $21,60 Dealextreme / dx.com

DX sells the flashlight under three different names (other manufacturers, but look identical to me except for the manufacturer’s logo), each with slight differences in the technical specifications and accessories.
I present the Ultrafire LZZ-F13 and with the best technical specifications. Then there are the Raysoon RS F13 , which I call as “accessory upgrade version”. The Raysoon comes with one 26650 battery, a diffuser, a useful looking lanyard and a box (cheap version of an Otterbox) - This package costs only $ 4.40 more. Then there is the Sky Eye F13 the same cost as the Ultrafire, but the technical values (if you want to trust them) are worse (1200mA on high, the UF should have 2400mA, I can also confirm - I measure 2,43A).

Relic38 wrote a review about the Sky Eye.

I have chosen Ultrafire, because the Raysoon wasn’t listed at this time. The Raysoon might be a better choice because of the accessories. I neglect the battery because unknown quality, but a good lanyard, diffuser and the box for $4,40 more – get it.

If someone say to himself “it looks familiar” - there’s the Shadow JM07, which was clearly the inspiration for this lamp. The first JM07 is hardly to be found on the market. Some shops have the upgraded new model (same name), but with side switch.

Back to the Ultrafire
I want it, because: You can use 26650 18650 batteries, attractive design, and (even if it sounds ridiculous maybe) the red cap.

It is delivered as usual in a small white cardboard box in bubble wrap. When unpacking, I noticed immediately that it has a protective film on the lens. I have never seen this before whether budget segment or brand lamps of the mid to high price segment as Fenix TK35, Olight M21 Warrior, ThruNite T30S, ThruNite TN31.

The flashlight is matted black. There is a small color difference between tailcap and battery tube. But I know the same of brand manufacturers (at Solarforce happens more often in the last time) and the difference is very small, I neglect this.

Here is some impressions. My torch had some black layer edges at the tailcap and two fins. With a black marker can “repair” this.

The 18650 to 26650 adapter is very neat. I know now 5-6 and would say – place two for this (only very slightly behind 1st place). The 3x AAA adapter is also very well made and also comes in second place of my AAA adapter. Besides the small arrows that are stamped into the plastic so you know immediately how it must be loaded, it’s got even a visible sticker. So it’s easy to see, even in low light conditions. Good idea Ultrafire.

Now I start with my China flashlight checklist that I run every budget flashlight and partially on brand flashlights: Check the O-rings (greased), thread (metal chips), LED (quantity thermal glue / paste), retaining ring on the driver and the pill attracted the cable of the LED or the solder joint on the drivers must be soldered again? It takes 10 minutes, but then I’m sure that everything works.

The threads are lubricated, the o-rings not. The battery tube is anodized well (both inside and outside and the threads are clean cut). Positively to the threads I also noticed that they have quite a few turns. The head to the battery tube about 8.5, tailcap – batterytube about 7. In the end cap was a small metal chip.

Installed is a SMO reflector (in perfect condition). The XM-L U2 LED (CW) is built on a 20mm star and soldered properly. Unfortunately, a important detail was missing - the thermal paste / glue under the star. Although it is depressed by the centrering of the LED and the reflector, but it should be done. I used thermal paste.

On a positive note is that the Pill has also a very long thread and thus good heat conduction to the outer wall. Here is the comparison of the ZF13 to C8. The heat conduction should be superior to the C8 and presents a good modding basis. The throw isn’t as good as the C8 (with XM-L U2 LED), but this could be the result to the smaller diameter of the reflector and the lower depth and less Ampere. So it is not a thrower.

The aluminum bezel is flat and can also be removed. He does not keep the lens. Below it is a black bar, a gitd o-ring and only then comes the lens. The bezel looks nice and is a nice design feature – shiny front, blacl light, red end. All o-rings are gitd, but they do not light up a long time (like most cheap gitd products – only a few minutes).

The tailcap is red (outer diameter 15.8 mm). Installed is a reverseclicky, unfortunately with next mode memory. If you switch it off in low, you switch it on in strobe.
The switch is held by a brass ring with two recesses and in the center it has a plastic ring. The clicky is labeled HS27200.
The switch on the tailcap is easily accessible and easy to operate even with my thumb, when held next to the head tactically. If you have very large thumb, you will probably have some problems but you can use a finger.
Despite the recesses for the fingers it is tailstandable.
Rear are also two holes for lanyards / key rings with a diameter of 2.9 mm.

The driver is held by an aluminum ring with two holes and is fitted with a long spring. So here fits all batteries – Flattop, Buttontop and both protected and unprotected.

The driver has 5 modes (high, mid, low, strobe, sos).
I measured the following data: 18650 Li-ion battery, Samsung vs. unprotected. AAA 4 years old Aldi Activ Energy Ni-MH, no LSD (actually I do not use AAA in flashlight, so I use this old batteries, but were freshly loaded). High 2.43 / 0.55 A, mid 1,18 / 0.3 A and low 0,31 / 0,09 A.

It is labeld as CX 5122-05. Because of my little knowledge in electronics, I’m not able to say, if it is moddable with additional resistors (as in the SmallSun ZY-T13). I only know of a BLF thread: With a 500K resistor across the capacitor soldered the next memorymode can be bypassed and you will have a no memory flashlight.The chip a Mem2309 (here is the data sheet of the manufacturer MicrOne).

Indoorbeamshots:
1/25, ISO 200, f2,8, 1 Meter Distance

High

Mid

Low

Conclusion:

It is already in hand (actually I prefer 18650 flashlights, but the 26650 are relly great as a result of the diameter), the surface is well made and feels high-quality.
Could we compare a $22 / 17€ including shipping flashlight with a price range of $70-90 flashlight? The little scratches aren’t a big deal for a cheap flashlight…
The lack of thermal compound is a serious problem, but you could quickly fix without soldering (the cable on the drivers were quite long, as seen in the picture, so that a unsolder the LED was not necessary). Make a China flashlight checklist is important.
If you have corrected the deficiency, you get a pretty good flashlight for a decent price. With the bezel and the red rubber cap are nice points. The 2.4 A on high is to low, so the modding potential should not be ignored.

Thanks for your review Buwuve. I was finally ready to post my review of the Sky Eye version last week and then again on Saturday morning but the BLF site issues kept me from doing so. I'll get it up at next opportunity. Seems your version is on par with mine. Yours looks a little more dinged up, but your springs look attached better (mine are off-center).

-Garry

I wonder, why there are 2 “OUT+” connections @ that driver!!!

I notice this, too.
Relic38 has a 99% identical driver in his flashlight (Sky Eye F13), but the product name was placed on the other side. His driver has also plus twice. I don't know why.

I would say that the stack of those resistors is used to limit the current, so if more resistors means less current then, judging from the position of the “OUT+” pad that is not used, I would say that this output provides more current to the LED!

The two LED+ points are different, indeed. The one being used is direct drive with no resistors are in the emitter path. The other one is direct drive with resistors (8 parallel 1.5 Ohm) in the emitter path.
For this reason, there is no need to add resistors to increase the current. They are not used. Instead, add” copper braid to the tailcap”:How-To: Add Copper Braid to Springs and/or increase the emitter wire gauge.
Don’t forget to use a direct-bonded emitter star if you go over 3.5-4.0A; not much to gain up there with a regular star. :wink:

excellent, mystery revealed :nerd_face:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370886146644?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Found one for $16. And US shipping distributor.

Kool, thanks for the find!

I don’t think you can get much cheaper. I’ve bought from that ebay seller many times without issues. Just a US stocking distributor.

Great price! I'll be ordering a few soon unless somehow Fasttech seriously undercuts that price, but I don't see why that will happen now when I put in a product request for this light a long time ago...June 16. I updated my ticket anyway.

found some at 14.87 bought 2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UltraFire-F15-CREE-U2-10W-3-7-4-2V-1400LM-200m-Range-Waterproof-Flashlight-Black-/290967713339?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item43bf06f63b

Sorry My mistake this is for f-15 not f-13 Darn these eyes are getting bad

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370886146644?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

My Ultrafire F13 showed up today from the ebay auction linked above. I will say that the anodizing sucks. It’s that semi gloss black anodizing that I cannot stand. It is not flat looking like the ebay auction picture. I was hoping for the flat black anodizing that is found on the other ultrafire flashlights that have the better look and feel. I couldn’t stand it so much that I took out a scotch bright pad and tried to flatten the shine off the finish. It could only dull it so much.

The driver is the same driver as the sky eye f13. The current is running through the resistors. You will need to move the positive wire to the +out that is further away from the negative for direct drive. as Relic38 has mentioned. It will also benefit from copper braid on the springs or even berrylium copper springs swap.

I also have this Ultrafire F15 that steepdrop linked.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UltraFire-F15-CREE-U2-10W-3-7-4-2V-1400LM-200m-Range-Waterproof-Flashlight-Black-/290967713339?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item43bf06f63b
The anodizing on that model is much better. It has anodizing similar to a solarforce L2N. It still needs the same driver and spring treatment. I did see a good increase in brightness from moving the +out wire to the other location on the driver and soldering braid on the springs. It appears that they are using this same generic driver in most of the F13 and F15 flashlights.

Just ordered the Raysoon model from DealExtreme. I was looking at this elsewhere and some of these places almost make it impossible to actually order the merchandise!

Is there a simple way to make this a single mode light, either using the resistors or not? My neighbor is a cop, wants a bright light that is straightforward, on/off. I thought this one would be a great host as the 26650 will have some runtime to it, but still be adaptable to other cells in a crunch. I aim to make sure it’s got ultimate output with a copper pcb and thermal paste, upgraded wires and braided springs. If need be, I’ll replace the driver. If it’s too impressive, I’ll keep it and start over for the neighbor, lol.

Thanks for the heads up. I’d found it elsewhere for some $12. Then found out there would be $10 shipping. Pretty much same deal I suppose. $9.86 ea in quantities of 5, with $19 shipping….at soondeal.

Soondeal is strange. They keep their shipping charges hidden.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1186301-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-n

Maybe go with a simple driver like that Nanjg 105. You can solder the stars to the outer ring in order to set what modes you want. You will have to find out which star does what. I think soldering 3 stars on the right will give you high only.

Also, be sure to put some thermal paste on the back of these ultrafire and sky eye f13’s because it is commonly non existent.

Yep, I just ordered some new 22ga Silicone insulated wires, XM-L2 T6 3A on 16mm Noctigon boards and QLite drivers with more 7135 380mA chips. Should be ready to go in a couple of weeks. Might even put some 1/4” thick copper slugs under the pill for good measure, run it up around 4A.

The reflector is good in these? I’m thinking a good mix of flood and throw would be useful for this one’s intention, if the hot-spot flows into the spill nicely I’d be all the happier. :wink:

Might have to bake it to get a coppery color or at least a deep bronze, that should blend any anodizing issues.

The F13 is probably a little too big to carry around on a daily basis. If I was a cop on a budget, I would probably want to carry something small and simple like the ultrafire C20. The back button on it is always high, if you want to fool around with modes then you can use the side switch for that. But the back button is always high and that is what I like about it. Plus you can easily remove R1 and R2 resistor on it, replace with a blob of solder and get 3A with an 18650 battery. I like the C20 so much that I bought 3 of them.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004008/1288200-ultrafire-c20-cree-xm-l-t6-4-mode-600-lumen-waterp

I bookmarked that one and I’ll double check with my neighbor to get his thoughts. He might actually prefer I modify an old Stinger rechargeable or something like that, something he’s already used to carrying. I took my Solarforce M8 outside last night and he was leaving, he kind of tripped on that my single cell flashlight outshone the Hi beams on his 2014 Chevy truck. I told him to put his headlights on hi and see how the light stood up to em and he cursed, “They already are on hi!” My M8 was easily shining the road at 300 yds, a good bit further than his headlights were making.

I just really like the design and overall styling of this F13, figured those fins would be good for handling a modification that also enables me to make use of the 2 26700 Moli cells I just got. :wink:

Did you order the 37mm AR coated lens from IOS while you were ordering there? Hope so.

I agree with you, I really like the style of this light. Don't forget it will also run on 4AAA's with a 4AAA carrier (see FastTech). Good backup option. The 3 AAA output stinks.

-Garry

No, I didn’t think about the lens. Dangit!