Well, I popped off this mcpcb so I could re-center it. I thought I could use my Arctic Silver 5 compound (not adhesive)and let the base of the reflector hold the mcpcb down, but of course this did not work.
I know now that I have to get some thermal adhesive but I don’t want to spend the money for it just for this one job (i am not a modder).
Can anyone “donate” a little thermal adhesive? Just enough for a 16mm mcpcb?
I will gladly pay for shipping.
Thanks.
how about drill 2 screw holes to keep it tight? 
Looks like an HD 2010 pill to me. I used a broken in twine 20mm oring around the circumference of the star to center it, if you happen to have one.
Good idea…but wouldn’t I need a tap & die to thread the holes so I can screw it down?
yes u can find one at your HW store for under $10 and few cents for screws
Er, why not? Lots of lights are set up that way. If it didn't work because the reflector isn't tall enough to clamp the star when the bezel is tightened, add a thin aluminum or copper sheet shim under the star (or unscrew the pill to raise it closer to the reflector - you can wrap a circle of solder at the top of the pill threads to act as a spacer, so the pill can still be tightened for a good ground & heat transfer).
I was wondering about the availability of thermal adhesive a few weeks back but never got motivated enough to ask. So now that there is a thread on it, are there any Chinese sellers that sell a thermal adhesive that can be recommended?
http://dx.com/p/fujik-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml-grease-like-4579
…They used to have it at the US warehouse, but I can’t seem to find it now.
Edit: Yep, Le_Zouave is correct.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000468/1049304-fujik-heatsink-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml
Forgot I made that error when I bought mine. Could have saved a buck or two and received it in a similar amount of time.
Fujik is a little cheaper at fasttech btw.
If the metal under the star is thick enough, you could use small self-tapping screws. (You will still need to drill a pilot hole).
Just use JB Weld. Make sure you use the reflector to get it centered before it cures.
Thanks, I had added it to my Wishlist on DX, but had not bought it yet. Just ordered from FT yesterday, so will probably grab some next time.
I had also wondered about that. Was not sure if it was conductive, or if perhaps it might block heat transfer by acting more as an insulation rather than a thermal path.
JB Weld works fine, probably at least as good thermally as any of the Arctic-whatevers. Plus it's cheaper.
One of these days I will build a pill entirely from JB Weld and show it's functionally identical to aluminum or brass (I'll avoid making that particular claim against copper, too many people might get their delicate little feelers tweaked) in actual use...
I use Arctic Alumina 2 part thermal compound because it sets in 5 minutes, so I don't have to wait when I am doing a build. JB takes hours or days depending on the temp and most of the time, it never hardens for me. AA is not cheap but I feel it does a better job the Fujik, which is just silicone for electronics.
Who needs 3D Printers, just order the New Improved Comfychair Industries LLC “Pour your Own JB Pill” kit and make that sucker fit.
Mold it, set it, forget it, remember it and than sand it into the final Incredible CCIllc Wonderpill (Patents pending)
Order now, quantities are limited, Operators are standing by :’)
Keep hearing about it.Is it like Araldite?Two tubes of époxy and hardener,or siamesed syringes that dose automatically or something completely different?
A thin coat of carnuba wax works great as a release agent, and doesn't affect the epoxy curing. It's even possible to make threaded parts formed in place using a coat of wax. It'll cure hard enough to file or drill in around 30 minutes if you give it some heat, like on top of a heater or even a hot TV or stereo. Don't use the 5-minute JB Kwik, it sets too fast and isn't as strong.
There’s a pretty good 8 year old thread over on CPF that discusses this, with some pretty good comments that are worth looking at again.
Interesting, after reading the thread on CPF, there was a post talking about JB Kwik. Small world. Anyway, FWIW, this is what the poster ‘ZuluWHiskeyFox’ opinied on the subject:
This probably isn’t necessarily the best way to do this, and I have just ordered some AS5 Adhesive for lights and other projects however I have used thermal paste for the connection the pill (thermal transfer) and then some RTV silicone adhesive to hold the pill in place/act as a centering ring/spacer. Be careful not to get any on the dome and you should be ok.
I’m unsure if the LED could be reused after this as well; it’s probably ok however If you are planning on doing a lot of swaps another method would be better.
I ended up doing this on one of my lights since I could never get a centering disk to line up right and center properly so I just made it with silicone (P60 setup). No rings now, holds the LED pretty solid that I can tell; I’ll probably reuse the same method on my next 219 build since there aren’t really any good oem centering rings for them (Centering in a S3, then using thermal epoxy, then silicone around the connections to center/space and isolate it).
You can’t really ship thermal adhesive anyways unless you just had a small amount in a tube since it would cure.
Good luck! I’m sure JB weld would work as well, I just figured RTV silicone would be easier to shape/cure and I didn’t have to mix it up with no electrical issues (Not that I’d expect many the other way either, but w/e).