I use Nanjg drivers they use 7135 chips to regulate current. The standard XML driver I use is the Nanjg 105c it has 8 7135 chips giving 2.8 amps max on high. I can add extra chips for more current, +1 9 chips gives 3.1 amps max and +2 10 chips gives 3.5 amps max on high.
Hey E1320.
I want to start off by saying I love these dropins and theyre an excellent value. Im having some trouble though. The spring on the end of the dropin is too short to use in my hosts. Ive tried them in L2Ts and L2Ps. In the L2T it makes contact but its intermittent. I finally took the spring out of one of my L2P clickys and stretched it out. It works now but I can feel the battery jiggling and it will switch modes if I jiggle it hard enough. It only works with longer protected cells. Its an absolute no go with unprotected ones. What can I do to remedy this?
This is a problem I just recently learned about. P-60 hosts in general vary in size, Solarforce lights are extra long for some reason and require an extended spring to be added to the driver, it is even worse if you use standard cr123 cells in a Solarforce host. I have some small springs I have been soldering on to the drivers for people using these in Solarforce hosts with cr123s. Send me a PM and I can try to figure something out for you.
the slightly shorter spring and the longer protected batteries. for the shorter batteries, and please confirm this with Erik, you can put in a couple magnets, like the small rare earth ones sold at DX. my trustfire flames do rattle a bit, but it hasn't not caused any issues at all, hi-max barely rattle and xtars not at all.
The main problem I have is I don't own any Solarforce lights. I have about a dozen P-60 hosts and they do vary quite a bit.
I am not a big fan of using magnets unless you can tape them on securely so they don't come loose and cause a short.
Once I realized there was a problem with the Solarforce application of this drop in I developed a fix, but it involves some rather tedious soldering of a spring on the back of the driver.
I have been trying to come up with a slip on spring that will attach to the small spring on the driver by crimping in place, but the risk of a short is to great and I don't want to be responsible for an 18650 blowing up in somebodies hand or pocket.
Right now the safest thing to do is to stretch the tail cap spring and use long batteries.
I will gladly add the spring for you for free if you want to send the drop in back and I will split the shipping cost also.
if everyone did business like E1320, huh?
That is a great idea Bob Thanks.
Thanks for the update Bob, I really appreciate your honest opinion on my drop in projects. I am totally indebted to you for getting me into the XPG testing and building, they have some real world advantages that I would have never discovered had I not taken your advice. My 501A XPG is my new EDC replacing the XML version I carried for so long.
I recently picked up an Ultrafire C-88, I highly recommend you pick one up also. This light has an XPG sized hotspot with an amazing amount of throw in stock form, it would be a perfect dog walking light for you. I was absolutely blown away when I did the XML swap with a Nanjg 105c driver, the hotspot is half of the size of the 980L and the 3AA format is a very cool idea.
I am really happy you like the drop ins I made for you and I hope you get many years of trouble free service out of them. If there is any thing at all I can do for you in the future please feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Erik
"Since I got my new soldering iron I have successfully added chips to a couple drivers. I just made a 10 chip 3.5 amper for oldbobk. If I can just get my programming to work so I can add a super low mode I will have my ideal driver 5 mode no strobes or flashies super low evenly stepped all the way to a 3.8 amp high."
What is your turn around time to make one of these XML's in 1A tint? If five mode that steps to 3.8 is available that would be my preference.
I can make you a drop in in one day and send it out the next day, as long as I have the parts.
I haven't got the programming to work yet. I can copy and erase the chips, but not write to them yet. I honestly haven't put any time into figuring it out because I am pretty happy with the 3 mode configuration.
I have only made one 3.8 amp driver for a C-88 XML conversion. 3.8 amps really is to much heat for a P-60 drop in, but I will make one for you if you want. I really think 3.1 amps is the sweet spot as far as visible light, run time and heat production, but I will make you whatever you want. The 3.5 amp drop ins seam pretty popular and I just got some extremely bright 1A tint emitters.
@E1320
How much brightness difference do you think we'll get with U2 vs T6 1A in a P60 drop-in, if much at all? This is figuring being driven proportionately.
I haven't made a useful light with the aspherical lens in front of an XML yet. I will have to try it with the 2 amp R4 I have. Thanks for the advice I will definitely give it a try.
My girlfriend has been on vacation the last two weeks, so I will get some time to play with the programming once she goes back to school on Tuesday.
I honestly don't know. I have not made a U2 drop in yet and the U2 drop ins I have are from KD and they are severely underdriven.
I ordered some U2s from Cutter and they should be here in a week or two and I will know for sure once I get them. I will make a 2.8, a 3.1 and a 3.5 amp and compare them to the T6s I have driven at the same amperage in the same host. Then I will be able to give a definite answers to this question.
I did recently get some 1A T6 emmiters from Shiningbeam that are brighter than anything I have seen before.
What are you thinking for a price of a P60 drop-in with U2? I assume you could figure this out already since you know the cost of the U2 emitters. I suppose I'll wait for the results, but for now I think I'll be in for a 3.5a U2 drop-in. Thanks
I will sell them for $32 delivered. I will let you know when the U2s get here.
i will be in for one of those, or the 1A 3.5 amp as well, whichever is brighter. thanks. still pondering the pocket rocket too...
Sounds good Frank just PM me when you are ready and I will send one out.
It all sounds very cool. I would be very interested in a 1D XML with a custom 5 mode. 1-press 3.5amp high, 2-press 1.5amp, 3-press (100-150 lumen), 4-press firefly (.5 lumen), press-and-hold 6.0amp 10-12hertz strobe(perhaps even ideally a random strobe a la Klarus XT10), no memory, and of course no flashing when executing multiple presses :) Put that together and you will have my payment in the morning.
(and of course copper would be even better)
As a side note, I am curious why I have never seen a strobe run twice as hot bright as the max mode; perhaps someone here can enlighten me.
That is quite a difficult build you are asking for. A 6 amp strobe mode would require 18 7135 chips in the pill and there is not enough room for that many in a standard P-60 pill. The 1D tint XML emitters have been back ordered for some time now also. I sent you a PM so we can talk more about this project.
I see big things for you in the future... :D