I have a couple of Jacob A60’s en route to me and I think I want to attempt to mod one of them. This will be my first mod. What I want to do is make a red LED thrower. I talked to a couple of people about building one but decided I want to do it myself…with your help of course.
As for the driver, I’m not sure. After reading up, the XP-E2 should be able to handle 1.7-2.0a. I’d like a single mode, but I’d deal with a 2 or 3 mode as long as there was no strobe or sos. This will be for hunting and I honestly have zero use for anything but high.
I already have a soldering station.
I’m thinking I will need the following supplies. Please correct me if something isn’t needed or if I left something out.
What size wire will I need? Will I need any other items? I don’t think I will need to replace the clicky switch, but somebody with more experience let me know.
Also, if I decide to mod my other light, what would you recommend for the LED and driver?. I’ve read where the A60 can be picky about LED’s and getting them to look right.
I have done a few red A60s. First use a 16mm noctigon unless you have access to a lathe or have other means cuz the factory base has a step for a 16mm. I used 20mm but have a lathe. The other plus is you can reuse the plastic cover but sand/file the ridge for the difference of MCPCB thickness of the noctogon vs aluminum base eliminating the butterfly insulator. I remove my driver and strip all of the components and drill a hole for the positive wire connection. An easier method would be to use a PCB partition board. Driver Adapters / PCB Partition Boards
I do the above to adapt 17mm driver boards.
for the driver Qlite order from MTN select removing three 7135s. Then have Richard reprogram for ONE mode or to save some money use the 2 mode “solder the star” selection. I have also used these drivers and stacked additional 7135s to get around 2100mah. http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001751/1127404-3v5v-4-amc7135-led-flashlight-driver-circuit-gener
The downside is these have no low voltage protection but you can use protected cells or live dangerously like I do and use laptop pulls.
I don’t understand your need for solder paste?
Fujik or and other thermal adhesive would be fine for securing the emitter.
Focus may or may NOT need to remove some material off of the bottom of the bell under where Jacob A60 is printed. Seem to remember removing about .020” (?).
Sure others will have suggestions as my way is not the only way.