18650 doesn't load anymore?

Hi!

I got some of these Samsungs: http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-18650-3_7V-2600mah-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery-For-Samsung-p-913785.html and so far I am pretty happy with them.

BUT… I wanted to charge two of them in my Xtar SP2 - but one of the two is not chargeable?
The LED stays green, and even my adjustable bench power supply shows me, that this cell isn’t chargeable. it raises the voltage but gives 0.000Amps.
The Cell works in a flashlight and I can measure the voltage.

Is this thing dead or is the protection circuit or whatever snapped in?

Thanks!

Hi,

I would bet that it’s the protection circuit. I’ve had some batteries that behaved exactly that way (works in light, won’t charge), and ended up removing the protection circuit board.

What is the voltage of the battery?

If you have a charger that doesn’t check the voltage before it starts charging, you might try that to see if it resets the board.

Jim

3.69V

I get 145.2Ohms.
A functional cell has 137.5Ohms (but with 3.96V).
So that seems normal, doesn’t it?

I don’t have an other charger here :frowning:

Cheap protection circuits gone bad… I had to take off my protection circuits on Panasonics from Wallbuys that wouldn’t allow more than 3A discharge, and KK 26650 “10A” protection circuits from CNQG which don’t allow a 5.85A draw. I have one more Panasonic cell that keeps switching off while charging when it gets to 4.15V approximately. Cheap protection circuits can be annoying.

Never had this with any other cell.
4 of those 3400mah Panasonics and 12 Trustfire Flame 2400mAh. Never.

I just remember… I had one single cell - maybe this one - in my “no sense resistor” modded Courui for testing after I built in a new LED… maybe that killed it.

And I just remembered that I have another charger - the SingFire SF-349.
Will let it charge for some minutes and measure. If the voltage increases, I will try with my good charger.

The protection-circuit-reset like here didn’t work.

If I have to rip off the protection circuit, this will be the perfect cell for the singfire. This light has absolutely no cooling but a USB Charger built in - so it’s the perfect “keep in car” light.

If you do remove the protection, take a picture of the chips showing the markings and we can identify it.

how are you getting that reading?
a good cell is below 100 milliohms.
sounds like the protection board is dead.convert to unprotected by removing it.

OK… now the circuit is dead.

I charged it a few minutes in the SingFire - now I can’t read out anything…

Will open it now

Edit:
OK, it was the protection - Cell works, has over 4V, so I don’t mind using it

Will make photos of the chips!

Do you have another light other than the one you mentioned (with the “no sense resistor”)? I’d suggest that you try the battery in another light if you have it after you remove the protection circuit, since the battery would basically be an unprotected battery at that point (obvious, huh :)?)), and you probably want to be careful with it in a light with an essentially DD driver.

more than one light?
Who needs more than one flashlight?
Me. :smiley:

Right now I have 36 flashlights here.
And that’s just the “good” flashlights. Maybe 15 more I don’t use.
Most of them with batteries and modded.

Here is the protection circuit in full resolution - good, that I have a good macro lens :wink:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/mr.teufel/SAM_1186.jpg~original

Had to use a flashlight from the side to make all the marking readable.

Thanks L4M4. Great picture.
DW01 fortune semiconductor protection chip. Seems common for cheap protection.

Did you happen to take note of what chip it was on your bad protection boards?

Ah no I didn’t, the ones on the Panasonics which gave issues were all from Wallbuys about a year ago.

The KKs were all from CNQG sold as “10A” protection, but are not, none of them are near 10A and they vary around the 5-6A as to when they trigger, it appears. From what I remember, a second FET could have been placed on the 10A ones to possibly bring them to 10A…