They’re referred to by a handful of names. Dupont, SIL or DIL (depending), Mini-PV, & etc. It’s a standard 0.1in / 2.54mm pin spacing, so lots of things will actually fit. Matthew Millman posts good information on the subject in this thread: 2.54mm connector question - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
For custom made cables it makes little sense to go with a bunch of color-coded 1x1 connectors though. Here is something I would suggest instead. 1. A handful of pins. (Harwin Inc M20-1160042)
2. Two 1x4 connectors. (Harwin Inc M20-1060400)
3. One 2x5 connector. (Harwin Inc M20-1070500)
My understanding is that the longer the cable you make the more problems you should anticipate.
EDIT: Also, FWIW, I’m fairly confident that Performance-PCs.com will assemble a custom cable of this type. I’d expect that it might cost around $20-50. See this item for starters and then contact them for the additional custom requirements.
I’ve found that if AVRdude can’t find the chip while it’s on the board, adding a little solder and swiping my iron across the pins a few times (like you do in the video) allows AVRdude to find it without having to fully remove the chip from the board.
ToyKeeper, I’m with you on command line and vim, I have a hard time thinking like IDE developers want me to. I do have one question though, how do you set the permissions so that you can burn without being root, or using sudo?
It’s probably best to use sudo, for security reasons… however, you can also set avrdude as suid so that anyone with execute permission will get temporary root while running it. This is a security risk though.
I have a question about This FT programmer …. is it`s cable connector compatible with this layout?
I got 2 SOIC 8 pin clip from Ebay and both came damaged, and since i am boored of waiting i have decided to DIY one from those 2
If they are, how shall i connect them to the clip directly, bypassing the clips own cables, which in my case are damaged? FOllowing the method in the first post or else?
I just used a generic ribbon cable and connected it directly to the clip according to pinouts I found online. The result looks like this (note, in the pic it’s missing one pin… I need a new picture):
I just want to say that I was successful in programming the flashlight. Yay. I thought I couldnt do it because in these chip programming scenarios there’s usually something that has to be fixed or changed in order to make stuff work. Thankfully it just worked.
Some of the firmware doesnt work but some works. I have a Convoy S2. The one that works for me is STAR version 1.2. I think the driver does not have any stars.
I have to try to fix a few things in the program. I think its not activating the max power mode. I also have to put some hot melt on the wires or they will break soon (after being bent many times as I take the driver in and out) and then I’ll have to re-solder them.
Thanks to everyone on this forum who has made guides on how to do stuff.
10x to the OP and the Toykeeper i made and flashed my first 2 drivers today!
Thanks of all the usefull info and help guys
Some tips from me:
- if you have the option, dont buy from those cheap Ebay clips, i bought 3 from 3 different sellers, and they all got various issues- and the main issues came form the cables , not the clip itself
- keep your cables as short as possible- especialy if they are cheap ones, i had an issue with error 0x00000000 for too long cables
for some reason extreme AVR burner still have issues( cant verify ) , but AVRDUDE works like a champ
I'm just getting started setting up my clip and noticed this same issue! My wiring into the connector end of the clip is flipped! Im guessing yoh took the ribbon cable out and flipped it over? If I don't do that I dont see how it will work. Ugh! And this connector cant handle being taken apart too many times! Think I'm going to get those separate ribbon cables (linked at Fastech but I'll look around) on order.
Yep I took the ribbon out and flipped it over. I broke the connector in the process, but it held up ok.
The clip itself stopped working recently, so I just ordered the pomona clip and the separate ribbon cable to do what Hoop had to do in his 2nd post. I ordered from digikey so I wouldn’t have to wait for china>usa shipping. It was at my door in 3 days.
Thanks for such a quick response! If I get the connector wired I may just super glue it for now. I also thought about using the cable that came with the programmer and just rewiring the opposite end to the clip, but I don't know if that's any easier/better to do. I did find the female-female jumper ribbon cable on Ebay in the US for $3.75. Just search "ribbon cable female" and you'll find them.
If I'm successful with this clip I'll likely move up to the Pomona clip.
Ok, moving the ribbon cable and resetting it in didn't go too bad. Took a couple tries to get a good solid connection. Those pins are fragile! I can see that the other end where the pins slide into the clip (cheap ebay clip) don't make such good contact. Too bad you can't get in there to solder them.
Yeah that’s where I think my clip went bad. The pomona clip has pins sticking out to connect to, instead of female sockets. It’s really expensive for such a small piece, but with the amount of flashing I do it is worth it. However, I don’t regret buying the cheap clip first because I didn’t know I would end up using it this much.
This happened to me again, and this time clearly is not any diode at fault. Flashed the firmware, nothing works but if I put the SOIC clip on it and input the test command avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n it changes modes like the command is the switch. What is it, some fuse issue or what?
I know, its an old thread but I just have to say it:
Mind BLOWN! Im just finding out you can program nanjg drivers.
this is a whole other can of worms. lol
