Thought it would be good to see everyone’s mods on the superb X6.
I have two, one untouched thus far and one I’ve played around with.
Please post up some details and pics of your modded X6 along with some comments on if it was worth it or not.
My latest mod has been to de-dome my CW sample.
Total list of mods are:
-braided springs on driver and tailcap
–17mm blank driver board
–22 gauge wire
-De-domed
-Samsung 25R
It’s direct drive and one mode now. Heats up pretty fast, but is more usable than I’d have though it would be direct drive.
The de-dome warmed the tint nicely, ever so slightly green hue when compared to the NW version, and the NW is still nicer tint IMO, but the de-dome tint is very nice none the less.
Hot spot is smaller and tighter, spill beam is still bright and it really throws lovely now.
I haven’t dedomed mine yet(but that is the plan for my cw), just braided and resistor modded.
Have you changed something on the centering ring after dedoming?
Smart Roadster. 698cc Turbo 3 pot and 790kg. Very very fun and nimble great handling. Not quite Lotus Elise level although not as wide either. But a lot more livable as a daily driver. Does 55-60mpg too.
I like the tighter spot and better throw but I think the NW is very warm as is I don’t want it even warmer, mine both have a LD1 driver in them and Samsung 25R’s but I would like a bit more throw if possible.
If you want to stay at NW but want to dedome it, you need to get a colder led to start with. for example a dedomed XP-L 2A tint would end up around where you are now but maybe a little colder & a little less yellow and it sounds like you think the 3C is maybe slightly to warm so it could be exactly what you are looking for
I put a de-domed XP-G2 R5 1A on a Noctigon with a LD1 driver in one of my X6’s. The throw is really impressive and I absolutely love the driver. However I don’t really like the beam profile. While the hot spot is a nice tiny spot, there is an ugly fuzzy larger corona around it.
Ok so I did the same. Except I used BLF17DD. I made 2 the first one has a beam to die for no artefacts and well defined hotspot and the second one didn’t do as well. It is all about centring it perfectly. But that can be hard without a centring ring. To get the nicest hotspot I had the reflector hard against the mcpcb. Keep trying to get that dam led in the center
No driver. Just direct drive and one mode. Did some amp testing earlier and on a fresh 25R I was seeing 5.42 amps tail cap with 12 gauge wires on my DMM.
Not a mod, but — I have two fairly early X6s, from back when they came with 2 screws holding the emitter board.
I noticed there’s no cut-out drilled for the screw head to nest into the rim, but even without that, when I tried tightening the 2 screws quite a lot of thermal goop squirted out from the edges of the emitter.
I’d thought the reflector was pressing the emitter in firmly — there’s a clear area of wear on the front of the emitter where the plastic spacer on the reflector is grinding away at the white front layer.
But tightening the screws definitely got a better contact established.
I guess my first ‘mods’ will be to put a second screw into my later X6s to tighten the emitter down firmly.
On both of my BLF SE’s I found that the screws holding the emitter not doing their job very well. On the first light I’ve bought I was sure the screws only press against the rim of the shelf and not on the MCPCB. And they are very small and easily overturned if you try to fasten them. On the second SE one of the screws was already overturned. I ended up replacing them on both lights, since the holes in the first where alredy very big I used 2,9mm countersunk tapping screws. For the second I used M2.5 metric countersunk screws after I cut mating threads.
Best is subjective, what is it you want, more power, different modes?
Easiest is just a swap to a Qlite with a few extra chips or a BLF DD FET driver for mucho gusto. Both can be had from Mtnelectronics with a choice of UI.
Primarily I am hoping for more brightness. A lower low would be nice, but a higher high is more important. Four modes is fine, it doesn’t matter that much.
