EDIT: Built pictures are below, my How to Build a Flashlight video has also been delayed a bit.
Hello
My goal is to have a decently bright light that I can have on for extended periods of time. I am aiming for it to be small enough to be an everyday carry. I would use this flashlight at work when I am under desks or in dark rooms & occasionally when I am working underneath my car. I really like the design of the S6 but the S3 & S2 are decent designs as well if they are better options to work with. I also need it to tailstand for work underneath my car, I have read that the S6 has issues with that. Since I use 18650s regularly on my e-cig, Sony & Effest IMRs 30A+, those are the batteries I would like to use those for this application. I have quite a bit of experience soldering and I would also like for my build to stay at or under 40$. Having a pocket clip is a nice bonus
Currently I'm thinking about building an S6 with a 16MM Noctigon XM-L2 T6 4C and 17mm Qlite Rev. A(guppy) w/2 7135s removed, AR lens and Ribbon Wire the Spring. Then toss a MTN Electronics pocket clip on it.
Any opinions about my current build or advice for building an s6?
I've also been interested in a TIR optic and a Copper Pill for better performance but I haven't found anything for this application. Also, should I dedome the XM-L2? I read 24 hr in gasoline works.
I've thought about the floodier S2+ & S3 reflectors but Mountain Electronics doesn't have the S2+ 18650 and I don't like the knurling on the S3. I think I should be okay with the reflector on the S6.
This being my first time having a "real" led flashlight I'm not sure what my ideal tint is. I do like "white" but not too cold. The HIDs in my car are about 4000K and I like that "natural" white hence I'm picking the T6 because they are supposedly "Neutral" white and I've read somewhere that they are usually a bit warmer than advertised.
Oh, I understand now. MTN Elec. offers a T6 4C which was my choice. THe next two options are a T5 5D3 or a U2 3C. 5D3 seems to warm and the 3C seems too cold.
S2+ has lesser material so it get hot much faster. S3 has no problem in tailstand, and the new matte version looks great in black or grey. Grab a cheap diffuser cap for close up work if you want nice wall of light at close distance.
I’ve had 3 lights with diffusers. I like them, though it does make for another thing to keep track of/lose.
As someone else has mentioned, de-doming is done to increase throw at the expense of total output. Unless you’re interested in running very high currents (and if you’re using an S6 host, and talking about removing 7135’s clearly you aren’t) you might simply want to use an XP-G2 instead of the XM-L2. That gets you the same things de-doming does, without the risk and bother of having to de-dome something.
As soon as I get a few things cleared off my plate, I plan to have my first mod project be to build myself a new EDC using a Convoy S6 body, an XP-G2 emitter (I prefer 3C tint) and a driver with Dr Jones firmware. If I don’t burn the house down, I’ll probably make one for my wife too.
I put my S6 together yesterday, and I can say it does tailstand, although the button cap protrudes enough to make it wobbly. I cut the rubber post down and now it is rock solid.
@GregY, Why a XP-G2? From what I read, they are smaller and don't produce as many lumens. I think it would be good for ~500ish when pulling an amp but can't you scale down a XM-L2 and get the same efficiency?
@pilotdog68, thanks for the heads up. I ordered a black switch boot from MTN Electronics, hopefully that won't protrude as much.
Received the tracking number saturday night and I'll probably have the parts at my house today. Sadly, I won't be able to build it till after this week due to finals... Have any of you guys seen a youtube video on how to put one of these together? I've been thinking of recording one.
I've only got an S3, so I can only comment on that particular host. An S3 tailstands with no problem, with no modding required on the boot. If you want floody, an XM-L2 or XP-L would do. I've got two S3s - one with XP-G2 and the other, XP-L. The latter of the two is definitely more floodier and would suit close up work. I did build both my S3s with the same driver you intend to use. I agree with pilotdog68 and keep the 7135s as is. If you elect to have it at medium mode, that's plenty (sometimes even too much) for close up work. You'll also have high on tap if need be, bringing you the 500 lumens you want. As for tint, I built mine with an XP-L U5 7A3 and XP-G2 R5 5A2.
They’re smaller, exactly. Which means they have better throw (side effect of them having more light output per unit area of the emitter). No they don’t scale up to as high currents or outputs as an XM-L2, but at lower current levels (like say 1 or 1.5A) the difference in total output between XM-L2 and XP-G2 isn’t as great as you’d think, while the XP-G2 will give you a distinctly tighter beam. Which is why I mentioned that, unless you’re shooting for high current/max output, switching from XM-L2 to XP-G2 gives you the same benefits of de-doming an XM-L2, without the known and potential downsides of de-doming (because that’s what de-doming does, reduces total output but gives you a tighter beam).
In a small light with a small and shallow reflector, I tend to find the XM-L2 to be way too floody. I find XM-L2’s too floody in P60 lights and tube lights like the S6 would be even floodier, but that’s just me.
If you want to take that even further, you can change down to an XP-E2. Which is even smaller, doesn’t scale up as high in terms of current or output as an XP-G2, but in the lower current/output levels you’d expect in a smaller light, it gives better throw with the tradeoff of lower total output.
As you can see I've been putting it to good use. Works like a champ and I'm currently using it in 3 mode (100%, 25% and Moonlight). Pulling 3A on high, .72A at 25% and .03A at Moonlight without the tail switch. The only problem I have is that when I initially insert the battery the flashlight stays on untill I bang it around a bit and get it seated, then I can turn it off.
For the people interested, I have recorded video footage of how to build a flashlight during my build. I'm looking to have it be ~15-20 min long and the footage isn't bad but my audio is messed up and I'm planning to rerecord audio so it's gonna be a while longer.
Looks great! How do you screw the pill assembly into the head? I’m currently building basically the same thing, but basically leaving the driver “floating” at the moment. That allows me to get my needle-nose pliers into the wire holes and really torque the pill in tight. One of the reviews on mtnelectronics for the S6 host talks about notching the pill. Just wondering if you came up with an easier/simpler solution?
Have any of you guys seen a youtube video on how to put one of these together? I've been thinking of recording one.
