No, double only on tail…
Posted some pics and measurements in Hoop’s thread.
Where the hell is Cyberescudo in the midst of all this chaos?
Took mine apart to check on soldering joints under the hold-down ring. Mine are nicely done, clean and fairly flat…
Here is a close-up view of the underside of the hold-down disc with, I believe, enough clearance for the solder joints…
Since my KeepPower 5200mAh protected 26650 cells have quite a large flat top, I decided to insulate the underside of the pill, where the spring contacts the battery. I used some Gaffer tape, a thick fabric tape with decent stickiness. As long as the pill does not get too hot during an extended turbo run, this tape should be fine. At least I don’t need to worry about it shifting out of place…
On mine, the pill spring is very strong and the tail-cap dual spring is fairly weak. Maybe some lights have a weaker pill spring and a strong tail-cap spring, which may cause the battery to shift upwards, making contact with the brass pill around the spring, thus creating a short?
why don’t these lights come with the underside of the pill insulated as a protective measure
thank you for these pictures!
Good question.
I tried signing up to the Italian site when this all kicked off to see if there’s any updates but their useless activation e mail system doesn’t work so I never got access.
I’m keeping an eye on this light but as things stand there’s no way I am buying something that’s likely to be faulty.
So disappointed 
Would it make sense to test this light with a protected KP 5200 mah battery first in case it tries to short, melt springs and burn my house down?
It wouldn”t hurt to use a protected cell first off I suppose just to be on the safe side as there has as yet been no definitive reason found for the couple of lights that appear to have shorted.
I would personally still physically inspect the light for any possible problems first though if it were me.
I will be testing it with a protected battery that is at about 3.6-3.7V ONLY AFTER I have done the following:
(1). Check to ensure that all retaining rings (driver & switch) are tightened down & that there is no obvious fault.
(2). And like Sharpie suggested in post #1041, measure the resistance between the Driver's spring & the body, which should be about 470 Ohms (the bleeder resistor).
It should Not be a short or extremely low (near 0 Ohms).
Best Regards,
George
Here’s one for you guy’s, real quick. Rebuilt my (Melted Down) Cometa. Dropped in a brand new A6 driver, powered up, nothing, woops springs getting hot? Rebuilt it again, with another brand new A6 driver, this time just powering up the pill outside the light, (pill only) guess what, yes correct NOTHING, woops spring got hot yet again??? Put a FETDD driver (kit built) and a brand new XPL-V6-1A on a Noctigon, powered up (pill only) HOO-RAH it works! Out-Freaking-Standing
Now thats a total of (3) A6 FET+1 7135 drivers down the drain! I wonder what it could be? The drivers outside the pill are whacked not smoked! Meaning they will fire up, some times? Try to go thru the levels, not really, totally erratic, to put it mildly? But the driver WILL NOT change mode groups? Stick between levels, low low low boom TURBO? Just whacked! Changed out the FET, same thing? Changed out the 7135, same thing, whacked! What could it possibly be? What could be touching the inside of the driver cavity to a component on the driver to cause this? :person_facepalming: The Cometa that works with springs and lighted tail cap removed and a omten switch installed and both driver and tail cap spring bypassed on a Basen 26650 is drawing 5.65 amps. The rebuilt Cometa with FETDD driver and XPL-V6 1A on a Noctigon, with omten switch (because the original melted down) with both driver and tail cap bypassed on the same Basen battery is drawing 6.45 amps. I like these little Cometa’s, and with all this, I’m still happy with the quality, the looks and performance, thank you very much for the hard work that went into this group buy, no matter what, it’s still a hell of a deal, to me!!
Please say a bit more. From what you wrote above it sounds like this is a problem with the driver? Or multiple different problems causing short circuits?
Can’t figure out if you’ve figured out the problem, or just kept burning up parts until you got a combination that worked.
If the latter, maybe you finally melted out some whisker of metal somewhere inside that was causing a short?
Help …
Thanks for the pics!
I read 24 AWG on the wires, what about the “Given the high current, 20 AWG cable were chosed.” in Cyberescudos original post?
Is there some abrasion (solder?) on the inner cone around the eight p.m. position?
PS “melted down” — is this the one where the springs were just “gone”?
If the springs disintegrated there could be metal fragments/blobs/condensed vapor anywhere inside. Just speculating on seeing
“Cometa that works with springs and lighted tail cap removed …” suggests maybe the tailcap is also a place something shorted after the first meltdown happened.
Just speculating here.
Seems like the safe approach is to treat this as a moderately expensive host, replace the driver, and replace the tailswitch?
Well got my Cometa about an hour & a half ago or so
I took some un-boxing pics then started to strip it down & before unscrewing the bezel I noticed some damage to the side of the lens
Upon unscrewing the bezel, which was extremely hard to do (& I have strong hands), I noticed that a sliver of glass has cracked off the side of the lens & is stuck on the bezel “O” ring & the “O” ring itself wasn”t centred around the lens.
The bezel has IMO been over tightened with the lens at a slight angle due to the “O” ring not sitting around the lens correctly.
The sliver of glass stuck to the “O” ring is quite, small about 4-5mm long & extremely thin but where it has snapped off the side of the lens there is quite a lot of damage in the lens itself.
Oh well I thought get on to BG for a new lens & “O” ring as the “O” ring is now out of shape.
Checked the springs both ends, took the hold down cover off, removed the pill & everything looks fine.
Anyway I reassemble & just to be safe make a plastic insulating washer & drop that in.
I put a Basen 26650 & did a resistance test & got 0.
Did a tail cap reading & got 0.
Tried a 26650 KP unprotected & a Thorfire 26650 protected nothing.
Put the Basen back in & put the tail cap on & pressed the clicky, I got a very very weak flicker from the LED (moonlight if that) then nothing.
No matter what cell I put in it the light is dead, no shorts, no heating up, no melting springs just dead.
I am waiting for dropbox to upload the pics to my laptop (hasn”t done it yet for some reason) then I will be able to post them.
So in conclusion the Cometa arrived with a damaged lens & is dead (driver I am assuming but don”t know).
I am very very sorry for these oversights manufacturer (too tigthen head, broken driver, lack of insulation)
but it is not justified the fact that they have not complied with the agreed specifications (I am referring to 24 AWG) cable!
[quote=Sharpie]
What is DMM please?You know I am newcomer in the club. 
Bella-Headlight, sounds awful
Is the driverring pressing good at the driver?
Everything seems absolutely fine ?
Even the build & finish seem good apart from the damaged lens.
Lubed threads on tail cap & bezel as well.
I can”t comment on operation obviously as it dosen”t work.
Physically the only negative I could say is that the zoom threads are a little loose allowing a bit of head wobble at anything other than fully zoomed in or out but I was already aware of this from the Jax & is nothing really & easily remedied by putting a bit of PTFE tape or similar on the zoom threads.
And still we have have no feedback from the organisers of this!
Have any other projects ended up like this? This was my first, I’m following the srk project and could do with a confidence boost.
Well once dropbox has decided to upload pics I will be raising a ticket with BG for a replacement (no point doing it yet as the first thing that they will ask for is pictures).