UltraFire HWA§WYS mod I'm planning on doing

Pics:

Basically a (1-2S) 26650 host I recently burned out its poor 800mA 20mm driver. Uses a 20mm star over a good heatsinked pill (it was hollow as it came); see here:

Torch is a zoomie with 16mm travel path and 30mm already scratched plastic plano-convex lens.
Parts list:

  • XHP50 “warm white” emitter; no more detailed info available: Nice price XHP50 at Aliexpress
  • Non-DTP “XM-L” footprint copper 20mm star board, which I’ll gladly DTP-enable with 800 grit sandpaper (I’ll see…), flathead screwdriver, solder and frying pan.
  • LD-29 2’8A efficient buck driver.
  • Glass 30mm plano-convex lens.

I don’t know yet how will I remove the plastic lens. It is held within that donut shaped artistic piece of aluminium. Should I put it in the oven with my next pizza and see if the thing falls off with a nice hammering? LOL!
Well, enough for now.

Cheers :partying_face:

Sense voltage is 0’07V across a default 0’025Ω SMD shuntsistor, that means it has to dissipate 0’07V × 2’8A = 0’196W max, which seems close to the maximum 0’25W for ¼W resistors so, that shuntsistor at least needs to be ½W to allow some acceptable current derating at high temperatures.

Mmm…

Cheers

Mmm, no safe bet in presuming the LD-29 will manage 6+V at the output.

This: 2-3* Lithium 3 modes no disco XHP/MT-G2 capable 2’8A LED Flashlight Driver at FastTech
Seems good & proven: Driver review by RoyFellows

I have no real clue of what he says about those “loop-back” resistors. Just doesn’t makes sense to me to presume they are used as current sensing resistors directly, seems too much of a voltage drop through them.
A MOSFET, mmm, maybe these resistors are there to modulate the source-gate voltage drop, fine tuning the measly source-drain resistance and corresponding current flow.
Hope someone brings additional info on this.

Cheers :slight_smile:

Your “heatsink” is good enough for 1W led (and useless for 18W one).

That seems overly underestimative, much smaller SK98 clones do more or less fine dumping 9W to an XM-L with just a solid pill.

Cheers

Solid pill is used for heat trasfert only.
Your ‘heatsink’ is about 15sq. cm., sipik clones have 7-8 times much area.

With thorough respect my friend, you’re talking bollocks.

My “heatsink” is just a (much improved) kind of pill.
My host is just MASSIVE compared to an SK98 body: its wider and nearly twice its lenght.
UltraFire SK98 XM-L2 at FT

Cheers

You have impoved total surface area for about 5%, but have lost in thermal conduction several times.
So powerfull LEDs must be used with pills with integrated shelf.
Contact area between your “heatsink” and the pill is to small.
The only way of using such pills with huge hole inside - pressing piece of copper rod in the pill. Cold press fit to maximize contact area.

I’ve spent a little time with these drivers. If you are planning to alter the resistors for more output, they will overheat quickly & reduce power unless they are well sinked.
You are planning to use a DTP board for the LED, aren’t you?

I think I’d not mod it straight away.
It’ll be 2S li-ions for me at the input. Any idea about the expected efficiency?
DTP copper board, yes.

Cheers

Not sure about efficiency.

Same driver here, with bigger coil.

Driver boards at Kaidomain

Nice range there. They have the aforementioned driver at FastTech labeled for SST-50s, guess also optimized for higher current, but much more expensive. :-/
A couple of years ago I bought a Nichia NVSL-219B-E there, very nice high CRI emitter.

Cheers :sunglasses:

Maybe you sound a bit dramatic but, I am using thermal paste on the more or less fit inside heatsink piece.
However, I have a blowtorch at hand and, with this kind of acidic soldering flux:

Goot Super Soldering Flux

… it should be easy to tin the contact surfaces of the inner piece I cast and, with additional flux on the outer hollow pill and more blowtorch flux, it should be easy to meld both parts into one.
Sounds good! Doesn’t it? :slight_smile:

Cheers

0K. Quick question:

My host uses a ∅29/∅27mm OD/ID aspheric, 11mm thick. I was wondering what kind of improvement (?) would I get from replacing it with an equivalent glass one, like this.

Hope some knowledgeable one chimes in.

Regards,

Salvador ^:)