That’s what a top bin xhp70.2 can do given enough power and cooling.
And top bin means ‘a good one’?
If ordered the xhp70.2 p2 1a 6000k. Is this a good one to get high numbers?
Yes.
The company that makes the xhp70.2 is Cree. When emitters roll off their assembly line each one is tested for both output and tint and are divided up into bins by those characteristics. P2 is the brightness. 1A is the tint. M2 is a lower brightness, then M4 is higher, then P2 is currently the highest. 1A is a cool white, 3C is more neutral white, etc… Each designation has a certain range of variation. You can look at the Cree spec sheets to see more info.
Thanks for explaining! :student:
Do they make like CW and NW leds or do they just turn out to be the way they are?
These leds are not made for flashlights, they are made for home lighting or commercial lighting so they make sure to produce a variety of color tints for whatever their customers need.
I believe the xhp70 was specially geared towards street lighting.
Worth pointing out that when this kind of output is achieved there is substantial current draw on the cells which in and of itself is abusive and causes losses, run time and cell/emitter life expectancy take the brunt of that, as one might expect.
When current draw exceeds 3x the capacity of the cells run time till cell depletion is greatly reduced. Likewise, well over 4x spec on the emitter max rate will reduce life expectancy of the emitter. The XHP-70.2 has a max current draw rating of 4.8 Amps in 6V configuration, we have lights running them at 20A and more… thus 9500 lumens.
Can anyone tell me, is it possible to have the side switch backlit on the L6 with a stock driver?
If so where would I connect the power to switch on the driver and what type of resistor (if I needed one) should I use?
TIA 
Are you wanting the switch lit for location purposes?
If so, I find it far simpler to put a tritium vial in the nub inside the rubber boot, this draws nothing from the cells and allows for easy locating of the switch both on the nightstand and in hand out in the field.
I remove the boot, invert it, and drill a small hole horizontally across/through the nub, then push a 1.5mm x 6mm trit vial into this hole. Reinstall the boot and the switch is now lit for years…
Sure, just look at my L6 in my sig. You connect switch light power to the driver positive and negative. Then it turns on and off with the rear switch.
A switch light tends to work best with a driver that let’s you control on and off with the side switch.
Has anyone got a modded L6 with High CRI (80+) 4000K to 5000K L6?
I can’t for the life of me find a source for Luxeon MZ emitters, does Nichia do anything other than the 144 that would be good in a L6?
It would be good to hear “tint and CRI” snob opinions on CREEs offerings.
Looking for 3500 lumens ideally.
Thanks!
Yes, I have an 80CRI 4000k xhp70.2 in my L6 as of 2 days ago. Combined with a TA FET driver I am getting 8000+ lumens at 14A. I LOVE it. It really took the L6 to the next level and every time I use it I like it better.
I have had bad experiences with the 144A in a reflector based light, they always seem to have horrible tint shift, particularly in the middle of the hospot. It has been known as the egg yolk syndrome. They look good through a tint mixing optic though but are much lower lumen LED’s.
Overall I am very happy with the xhp70.2 in my L6 and can highly recommend them.
Made an L2 with the good old XP-G2 S4 2B. I got 316 kcd and 975 lumens with 1 cell TA fet driver. can I bump this up more with a buck driver and 2 cells? What driver suggestions available for pushing out the max of this led?
What current (amps) is it pulling now?
I have a couple from Mtn.Electronics 20-22mm 2S 5.5-6amp drivers, the only ones I know of that are worth it, been running them for over a year now. But they are expensive.
RMM has a 20mm 2S 5.5amp 20mm MTN-MAXlp HP 4A-5.5A Low-Profile Buck Driver - 5V-18V
Or a 22mm 2S 6amp http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_115&product_id=525
It pulls 4,35A but I had only 22 AWG wires to the led. Maybe I will change them. I don’t really want to make it 2x26650 or 2 cell. So Maybe I stay with this setup. For more throw there will be my GT if I ever get it.
Gotcha! Running it single cell, 20awg might bump it up a tiny bit? Or maybe a Higher drain 26650 could kick it up a bit? I run a 21700 IJOY and it kicks out a bit more current, had to extend the battery tube a bit with 2 copper crush washers one on each end of the tube, but it works.
Hope you get your GT soon ! :+1:
I will try to minimize wire lengths and Maybe I can widen the hole in the driver to push through 18 AWG 
The switch is fully low resistance. Spring bypass going through board directly to switch leg and the board is PD68’s high current switch pcb. So what I can do is all in the head. I use Liitokala 26650-s.
Couldn’t take having that extra tube laying around for my Bare Metal/Clear coated L2 anymore, so I put Djozz and T/A’s favorite yellow high CRI XHP70.2 in it, the mighty M-XHP70.2 :person_facepalming:
Pulls just over 18amps and at 30 seconds 17.34amps and gets hotter than hell in 1.5minutes!
This yellow LED looks way better in a smaller light then it did in my GT, and in the higher modes looks pretty decent after all. Sure puts out a lot of wide spill in this smaller format. Used an L6 centering ring to size the emitter opening in the reflector, worked out good.
Yeah, it does get hot that is for darn sure, course it is pulling over 120W at that power, almost 4x what the light had stock lol.
Hey all. Read this thread twice over and grabbed a pair of L6s. A clear host and a black stock light. I went with the MTN FET drivers for both, 20ga turnigy tailswitch bypasses, and am running liitokala blacks and/or efest purples.
driver: 30mm FET Driver - 2S Momentary - Convoy L6
LED: Cree XHP70.2 P2 5700K on DTP MCPCB
One problem though, and I can’t tell if it’s me…
I installed an XHP70.2 in the first light, replacing the XHP70. XHP70 had no issues, whatsoever. First light up, I let it run on low for about 30 seconds, ramped it up and as it got near the brightest, it tint-shifted to purple and I quickly turned the light off at the tailswitch. Turned it on again and I get 1/2 of the die lit. Other side is totally dead. Popped the XHP70 back in and it works as expected. No issues at any power level.
Grrr.
Read a bit and it seems it may have been a bad reflow. I reflowed again, pulled the led wicked the old paste, re-pasted and reflowed. Still only half-lit.
I chalked it up to a bad led and bought a couple more from mountain. Same as before, mounted to DTP stars.
Yesterday night, I went to build the clear host. New MTN fet driver. New XHP70.2. This time I let the light run longer and ramped up slowly. As it got to the top, same thing, slight purple shift and I turned it off almost instantly this time. Turned it on again on low to check and lost another half of the die.
To add, i’m using thermal grizzly kryonaut TIM. Using their manufacturer’s recommended application method. Spreading it all over the surface (shelf) so there’s a layer where the star meets the shelf. This stuff is better than AS5, as I use it on my PCs for both air and water cooling overclocked processors. Been building PCs since the late 90s.
Here’s the TIM: Thermal Grizzly High Performance Cooling Solutions - Kryonaut
I have one more XHP70.2 ready to go, but I am a little hesitant. I tested it on a 5v rail of a computer power supply (on top of an aluminum heatsink) and it lit right up
Any tips or tricks? Is it me or the LEDs?
I’ve heard that re-flowing too hot can kill the 70.2. It might be in your re-flow technique. Check there, make sure you’re using enough paste under the emitter for a good thermal pad contact, use just enough heat to get it flowed then allow it to cool some before dumping it on a heat sink. That too is where I’ve heard of some problems, cooling it TOO fast.