After putting together 2 lights with tterev3’s meld-x drivers I was curious to know what was commercially available. I was a little surprised at what you can get. This is not a complete reference but as you’ll see there’s quite a choice.
These ones have 2 options - red green white / red yellow white
I liked the look of this one so much I ordered one. I have idea’s for those switches but I don’t have it all straight in my head yet. It would help if I knew more about electronics.
This next one has been around a long time. I used to own one but the driver went haywire after a bit of thumping.
Others I found
I know there’s more but I got tired of looking at about this point.
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I found a new breed of light that I never knew existed
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Yep… heres mine. Eveready hard case 2AA RGB/UV I have really beaten the snot out of this light on the trails. I used it clipped onto my waist, head angled down to the ground and the UV light to illuminate scorpions. Not the brightest thing, but in the dark anything that flouresses will be shown. 9/10 times they retreat back into their dens though. They can sense trail hikers long before I can see them. Bushnell RB, this is my daughters girl scout light. Its blue LEDs have a fair amount of visible purple UV too. Supposedly its for blood tracking… never tried it (shrug). Its a 1AA, but it runs fine with a 14500 cell. I suspect the light engine is identical to the 2AA version. SF A2 incan + Red
Buy a C8 clone, red LED on a 20mm star (XP-E is the best choice, but some nice craptastic “bead” LEDs also come in red), and the 17mm driver of your choice, as the driver that comes-with is likely to be garbage.
Best would be to get a real Convoy C8 host, so you could use the retaining ring to hold the driver in place vs having to solder it into a pill. The LED would then sit on the shelf that’s integrated into the head. After the LED’s soldered to the driver, use Arctic Silver 5 to stick the LED star to the shelf. That’ll keep it cool and happy and let it last a looooooong time.
Me, I like 1-mode drivers, so a 1.05A or 1.40A 17mm driver is perfect. If you’re going after hawgs, you won’t need l/m/h or blinkies. Just light ’em up and blast away.
If you can solder/desolder, have at it. Easier’n falling off a toilet.
I thought I had that but I got the T2QC instead. There’s bound to be plenty I missed. I can think of another already. Will update OP when I sit at a pc.
Something that would be a quick fix just for a tail light and easy to do on whatever light you wanted to use, would be the translucent notebook or “binder” dividers.
Unscrew the bezel mark or measure the size from the lens , (or use a compass to keep from messing with the lens) cut out the piece , place the new piece over the lens and screw everything back together and you have the color of choice.
Thanks for starting this thread!
The great thing about the P7QC is you just need to turn the head to change colours. One of my favourite lights!
A few more examples:
The Protomachines LED2 (hand held flashlight) and Radium (light bar) are another two to add. Unlike most of the above lights, they can actually colour mix, but are very expensive.
Yongnuo YN360 is a well priced professional standard LED bar that can colour mix - popular with portrait photographers, but probably not enough throw for other work.
The long discontinued ledlenser V24 could produce 7 colours, but was more for attaching light painting tools on the end, rather than as a flashlight. It can now change hands for more than it’s original price.
I personally think that a consumer quality, and well priced $70-$100 colour mixing flashlight (e.g. something like a ledlenser P7QC or QuarkRGB but with colour mixing) would be very popular with light painters. Would ideally need a head between 25 and 38mm so that the lightpaintingbrushes.com universal connector can fit on the end.
