OK… I have sent the video with my faulty MF-01 showing that batteries are OK. Faulty Astrolux MF 01 - YouTube - by the way, how can I unflip the movie? 
Another reply from Banggood. This time “supplier told that maybe it is battery holder”?… and offered to send me another one.
Sigh. Asked them to forward my videos to supplier.
(by the way, voltage drop and going into “below 6,8V” were caused by not screwing too tightly - if I screw it with full strength, it isn’t dropping so fast).
Is there anything that differs on the flashlight while using the code from the message (for the groupbuy) Vs using the public code?
Since the price is the same…
.
$78 / Coupon: 0410E9 / Proceed to Store >>
You can use either one and you will enjoy the same amount of discount,
but above promotion code is only valid for limited period.
Why I asked is that I remember that you asked them to remove some markings like the “standard tripod connector” text.
But that maybe was the Astrolux MF02 flashlight.
That text is removed on the picture of the MF01 at BG, but at the MF02 picture that text is still there.
I thought it matters what code I use if you had done some specific alternations.
I remember telling someone to tighten the battery tube first, then tighten the rear cap. This made a big difference as far as getting good carrier contact.
Your driver is messed up, so it may not help you, but I just wanted to repeat this advice.
Got the Texas Ace driver with NarsilM from Lexel. Now this light is finally everything I wanted!
Anyone have the numbers how many Watts this flashlight is at turbo with the original driver powered by the Samsung 30Q cells?
Anyone have the numbers for the TA driver with NarsilM?
Guess it gets really hot fast on turbo with the TA driver?
How many lumens does MF01 + TA driver push?
Got a significant output boost with the TA driver. Switched from 24AWG to 22AWG and got
@0s
Stock: 8342 lm
TA: 13065 lm
@30s
Stock: 7939 lm
TA: 11229 lm
That is very significant! I’m sure that the leds are fine with it (620lm/led is nothing worrying), but how does the body handle that extra heat?
The head gets burning hot very fast. Very comparable to the D4 as a hand warmer, but doesn’t step down as fast.
edit: on mine the thermal throttle doesn’t seem to activate very easily. I asked for 60°C limit from Lexel. I ran it at 3000 lumens for a long while and the head got to 75°C, body to 62°C and it hadn’t stepped down yet.
Very nice !
What batteries are you using ?
That was with VTC5A.
It would be interesting to know how big the difference would be using VTC6 and GA (compared with VTC5A). In short: how many lumens would I sacrifice for longer runtime?
How much and how hard is to do this mod?
I think the driver is about $25 and then it’s just installing it. Soldering led and switch wires.
Yea…. I’m that person who can even f’s up the regular screwing. Forget about soldering lol!
Need to find someone near me to help me out on it…
It was very simple just like JasonWW said. Unfortunately my screw locations on the MF01 body weren’t exactly the same as on the driver board so I had to drill the board holes a bit bigger. Also, like an idiot, I just ripped the switch wires out without looking and soldered a wrong one in first.
Thanks buddy!
Just found my Nichia MF-01 in the mailbox. With all the excitement of the two Q8s i received a few days back, i almost completely forgot about this one! :person_facepalming:
So far all looks good. Tint is beautiful. In plain daylight it looks exactly like sunlight.
Did anybody confirm the second batch Nichias are high CRI too?
Although the carrier looks well made, i’m a bit uncomfortable with the tiny space between the + and - poles on each side…
Hello! Today came to me a flashlight with a damaged button :cry:
I do not know how to upload a photo here, I had to put it on a google disk:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-6k9IUAOPq_Q2dCTFFOR2Z3TDA/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-6k9IUAOPq_bzRzYTEycE84OTA/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-6k9IUAOPq_cE9HSzFrRHl1NUE/view?usp=sharing