Looking to build something powered by a running car engine (a hunting light to be more precise). I’ve been given some parameters and think I can achieve it with a mix of leds - 2*xhp35 and 2*xpg2. I have one of these but I don’t think I can configure it to power all 4 leds. So I guess I will need to run 2 different drivers.
Any suggestions?
Really…? There’s no other options? :weary:
Hey mate I am building a light bar for my girlfriends corolla it has horrid lights stock. I’ll link some finds here when I am on the pc. You could run the xhp35 straight from the battery? I was thinking about using 12v XHP50/70. Alternator output is around 13.8v?
The xhp35’s I can run from the DIWdiver automotive linear driver. The xpg’s I’m not sure how to run them. I’m wanting to clamp down on voltage spikes as it’ll be run in a landcruiser that’ll be on and off the power running through the bush as well as powering the other lights on the vehicle.
Any helpful links you find would be appreciated 
1. anyway you have to protect any extra car led light with tvs-diode
2. I have posted this link many times.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/mtolya/m.html?\_nkw=&\_armrs=1&\_ipg=&\_from=
It may looks as advertisement, even some members asked me if I am related with seller/developer - no it is not so. It is rare situation when I enjoy smth made in Russia, so I just recommend things that Im using myself.
Yea i was thinking if using a 3v LED i would probably wire 4s so they run on 12v just have multiples of 4?
You may need two drivers for your setup one for the 3v leds and one for the 12v leds.
I was eying out this driver it looks decent. A bit on the expensive side. Its a bit big for your application it can handle a constant 240w. (Its not a purpose built driver) It is made for cars so it does always revert back to 12v so you will never have issues in that sense.
http://www.icstation.com/ltc3780-auto-step-updown-boost-buck-power-module-240w-vehicle-computer-power-p-11817.html
I was also thinking for ease of use using a stereo amp? Not sure how well it would work they can deliver more than enough constant power and are self contained.
As a general idea you could wire the XPG2 in a 2S config and use this 5v @ 5amps. lol it has a trim pot sitting on the bottom side.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Step-Down-Converter-12V-to-5V-5A-Power-Supply-Module-Adapter-DC-DC-for-Car/401380673527?rt=nc&\_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20151029142714%26meid%3D4a058a9ae2854a70b16b82d0588ce9fc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272191150254&\_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Higher voltage driver good for the XHP35
In then end any standard DC-DC buck driver will work fine it also depends on where you want to mount the driver?
Lol if the first link is not cheap then the audio amp is out of the question. Preferably I will be mounting the driver in the light head. The last link looks closer to what I want. Thanks
Thanks kiriba-ru. I haven’t really followed other peoples light bar builds so haven’t seen you post this link before. Do these drivers need a tvs-diode added to them? I think I’ll order some either way, thanks
Once youve seen how bad is voltage graph comming from your alternator, you will use tvs-diodes with any extra equipment that requires power.
Run your emitter in series and power them up with a decent boost driver: 1500W 30A DC-DC-Aufwärtswandler-Hochspannungsversorgungsmodul Konstantstrom Sale - Banggood Deutschland sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice
Different Vf should use separate drivers if you want to adjust current for each type of LED. Drive current is determined by Vout so you probably have to test the emitters on a bench before hooking it up to the converter.
Forget the 1500W rating since your Vin is in the low end and the current limitation for boost drivers is on the input, always go with at least 3x your required power.