"Optisolis"tm, Nichia starts with ultra-high CRI leds (mid-power currently)

Sorry supposed to be “compatible” not “matched”. I prefer to use the base as cathode “-” rather than to insulate it

- Clemence

Thank you, that was very informative. I am trying to choose a very few optimal led/optics configurations. So far it’s been two: an aleph mule with the 3x optisolis with the h17f driver (for its luci2, not for fet) and an aspheric with 2x e21s and the rgbw driver as modded by djozz. Completed testing yesterday

Btw I am still stunned by that 2000k e21. Would have never expected that 2000k tint would become my favoite one

NF2W757GT-F1 Rfc00 5000k

16mm XML

AA driver
Low:7mA
Mid:100mA
High:500mA

Left Rfc00 5000K,Right XPG3 3000K 90CRI

Same driver high mode

Hahahaha….“D-C-Fix” vs “No Fix” :laughing:

I happen to have a few of the aluminium dsch boards that MustSimon uses, never thought that they would be good for anything given that I have the DTP version too. Contemplating another Optisolis build….

Got my aleph LE with the 3x 5000K Optisolis and H17F driver. To say that I am very happy would be an huge understatement. This is the best tint I’ve ever seen and no tint shift at all. It is not only better than that of the 083B, I can easily get 10x lumens which is critical to me.

https://i.imgur.com/Xs4GbNw.jpg?1

Having the three LEDs along the line is bit weird but I am going to apply the DC Fix. In a single LED mule the DC Fix would leave some irregularities due to the filter structure being comparable to the LED die in size, but here the 6 emitters would eventually produce smooth beam through the filter.

For night time, I plan to use a SF F04. I have one without the matte “glass” and I will put there a 5000K -> 3500K LEE filter and a black diaphragm with a modest hole, so that it lets out just a narrow warm beam.

Thank you, Clemence!

We have stock of the Optisolis in 5000k if there is interest
one of the best spectrums I have seen

Also have 757 in 2000k and limited 100 pcs of NVSW219C in 5000k 90 CRI
Cheers
Mark

Can’t find Optisolis on your web site.

Also these cutter 757 12x LED boards, are they compatible with optisolis? Would be an interesting pcb for a P60 mule

New product and we are building a new web site so lots of things not on the old will be on the new site, im guessing this board

yes we can do this in optisolis
Cheers
Mark

Looks like a meteor m43 would be a great host for an optisolis based mule. I think that one could easily put 30+ LEDs on this mcpcb as there is a lot of space where the paint could be scratched revealing suitably spaced copper plates.

my M43

The M43 provides 10+ amp to the LEDs in Turbo mode, where 30 Optisolis would be driven at 300ma max each with 3000lm output. My 3x optisolis aleph outputs 750 lm @3 amps, which makes a nice room sweeper. I can only imagine 4x of that. Will definitely do this mod as soon as optisolis are available again.

That is exactly what I need, in like 3v ideally but 6v acceptably!

I would also be very interested in getting some 9080s in 5000k. The boosted R9 value is a must for my project.

This one is serial, as far as I could tell from the description

The 5000K Optisolis truly excel during the day time, however as any neutral LED, at night, and at low output they look blueish. Since I use the Optisolis based LE in an e1e bezel, modified for a mule, I wanted to transform an F04 SF diffuser into a midnight time filter by adding an appropriate color film from the Lee swatch book.

I had tried a number of different filters that were supposed to transform daylight to tungsten and I can highly recommend filter #147, called “Apricot”. It transforms the sunlight from the Optisolis to a really pleasant orange tint with the CCT somewhere around 2500K. It is well warmer than a normal incand bulb, but much cooler than the 2000K e21a.

Highly recommended!

@Vesture of Blood, how about some E21As then?

Wouldn’t that be good too?

fun filter,
note the 53% light transmission


They should make 5700k-6500k optisolis LEDs so that the ugly orange/yellow tint goes away and things actually look true white.

I gave away my sample pack of the 219 9080 for they were too pink for my liking, so can not comment on them. I would try that xml2 @6000K with this filter though.

The transmission factor is actually a good thing since you need less luments at night, anyway.

I agree the sw45 9080 is too pink. I dont feel that way about the sw40 9080.

for the xml2 I would be tempted to use minus green instead of peach, for less light loss. But I dont use that xml2, I prefer High CRI lights. I also dont mind some transmission loss, as I usually use lower modes anyway, I dont buy for Turbo.

I tried to get a couple pics of the 6000k xml2, but Im not satisfied with how they turned out, since my phone has no auto white balance. here they are anyway…

with the 147 Apricot

and the 247 Minus Green


(I think half minus green would be enough)

Half minus green 248, transmits 72%. I used it on Olight CW S Mini (sold due to not being High CRI, and is incompatible w Nichia), and Olight S1 Mini High CRI, (sold because it is has low R9 and is difficult to modify)

I also use Lee
249 1/4 minus green, that transmits 82.4%, on my 3000k 219c that I find yellow otherwise, and
279 1/8 minus green, that transmits 86.5%, that I use on the sw40 9080, because I find it a bit yellow also

I do like pink tint better than yellow/green

Lee Filters are great, and I appreciate you sharing your Apricot experience as well.

for those interested, here is a source of Lee Filters sample packs
http://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm

For heat concerns, Lee makes a Zircon line that is heat resistant:

The 802 Zircon Minus Green reduces lumens by 25, that would be closest to the 1/2 minus Green, that reduces by 28

Lee 248 Half minus green: 71.5%
Zircon 802: 75%

Zircon 803: 79.9%
Lee 249 -Quarter minus green : 81.5%
Zircon 804: 83.6%

Zircon 805: 86.6%
Lee 279 -Eighth minus green : 87.2%

found we had some stock of PCB for Optisolis not sure if the volts and size suits