I was perusing the CPF Zebralight thread The Official Zebralight Thread . | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
I was working my way back.
I’ve been reading the thread over there but I guess I haven’t seen these complaints, not much on the new ones though, but they do have a really good warranty, no questions asked returns IIRC, plus the new UI looks great.
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I’ve known about them for years, only have read good things! I like some of their P60 lights. They really have some nice options for the Convoy lights too.
Are you looking at this one? https://www.pflexpro.com/Nichia-219-Flashlight-p/pfp-s2-2.7a.htm
Okay thanks, that’s not the thread I was reading. Couldn’t find a specific thread or review for the new ones I’m looking at.
Thanks! Great to hear this, exactly which version SC600w IV Plus do you have?
How’s the tint on the 64w?
Do you know of any reviews on them?
you will have to say what the ‘issues’ would be with the BLF A6/Astrolux S1
i don;t see any, based on your requirements list
great light color is available, rugged, good UI, and cheap
what else is there?
wle
I like this, but previously was put off by reports it was 6000K + and they weren’t really high CRI…
But I see tonight in the GB it’s emitters have been changed, and test samples verified by maukka. Thanks toddcshoe for bringing it up and rekindled my interest, I’ve got some reading up to do.
S2+, swap the reflector with a 60° TIR (drop-in).
3x (think one comes with a 3B) should be the CT you say you want, but trust me, the 4C is downright beautiful with a TIR.
Get a shorty tube and you’ll be able to use both an 18650 and 18350.
Get an assortment of 20mm TIRs and go crazy, everything from spot to flood.
I used to think I had to have 5000K, until I really started using 4000K. I like both but my new preference is probably 4500K and under.
I used to think 4000K was too yellow, but you really only notice that if you were using a 5000K right before.
Now 5A is beautiful, and it makes the 3C look kinda cold.
The OP seems to really like Nichia 219 5000K, that could be a different story altogether.
The only Nichia I currently have is 219C 5700K which is on the cooler end of NW. Although it has great color rendering, that one hasn’t converted me from Cree’s. I need to experience a 5000K Nichia. Now I’m seeing different “D” numbers (flux bins?) I never saw listed before, and now also a 319!! I’ve got a lot to learn about the current line of Nichia LEDs.
Yeah, when I was doing up my F13, I had a choice between a 3 and a 5. Picked the 3. Wrong move. Despite being nicely “neutral”, I’m itching to have it be warmer.
Play with a real warm light, like the SF32W. Wonderfully warm. Takes some getting used to, even for me, but when you do… ahhhh! Nothing like it.
And yeah, now even “neutral” lights look rather cold. I was thinking that my SP10B was rather cold, ’til I compared it with a known 6500K light. Downright balmy in comparison. Takes some “neutral” time to see that the ’10B is quite neutral, certainly not Angry Blue.
Hell, even my ’502 with one of the first 5000K XP-Ls I could get my hands on (yeah, that long ago) looks downright cold, and I was thrilled to have something Neutral™ compared to all the Angry Blue lights out there.
I should throw in a 5D or something. Think I got some on Cu rounds…
Correction, my new A6 is actually 5A not 5D, I went back and edited my posts.
I just did a quick comparison between 4C and 5A
- Convoy XML2 4C (4300-4500K)
- BLF A6 XPL 5A (4000K)
The 5A is quite a bit warmer, a very noticeable difference. On white objects the 4C looks much whiter. Colors look nicer under the 5A, especially greens, reds and woodgrains.
SC600w IV Plus by Cree XHP50.2 NW 4500K (2300lm)
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SC600Fc IV Plus by Cree XHP50 H-CRI 4000K (1816lm)
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This is an article I wrote and shared on the flashlight forum in Taiwan. 
http://www.wii.tw/~fogerdis/viewthread.php?tid=60087&highlight=
Thanks! the High CRI looks WAY nicer!
Good to know, I tend to collect lights and ever since I came across the SC64 I was really interested in the UI and the driver board. For some reason in my head the lights had to go back to China for warranty support. Maybe thats just where they ship from.
Debating between the High CRI easywhites, or for raw power with the XHP emitters.
Ill have to snag a warmer binned XPL. I was thinking that my 3D appears colder than my Nichia 5K, but I swapped a TIR in and theyre very close.
My D1 is a 5D and its a great tint for late at night and for spotting.
I actually have a box of TIRs for S2+ So far I have a 10, 20, 45P, 60P (P-Pebbled)
The 10deg looks just like the OP reflector to me, but the 45P is by far my favorite TIR.
Wellp, those are only ranges. 2 LEDs that’re really close to each other but barely on opposite sides of the fence will be ranked differently. Yet 2 LEDs in the same color-bin can be on opposite ends and look more different.
Think of test scores, where ‘A’ is 90-100, ‘B’ is 80-89, etc. The difference between 89 and 91 is small, yet they’re ‘A’ vs ‘B’, whereas an 80 vs 89 will be different by a much larger gap, yet both will be ’B’s.
Green is easy for most LEDs to show up. More red and less blue will absolutely make reds and browns “pop”. That’s why I love my SF32W. Indoors especially, everything just seems more “alive”.
Only no more fried-egg beam!
Yep, and with an S2+ and drop-in TIRs of all varieties, you got yourself a system, not just a light. Long/short tubes, TIRs, different pills, you can go crazy and build the light you want just like mixing’n’matching shirt/tie/jacket to get the look you want.
I have a Zebralight SC600w MkIV HI, and it does have one issue. In very cold weather (below –10 degrees) and in a wind, if I let it completely cool off, then the highest mode doesn’t work properly. The other modes work, though. I’m not sure if it’s the electronics or a problem with the battery in the cold. I was running a Samsung 30Q, which I thought would be okay in the cold. I’ve since switched to a Sanyo GA battery, but it’s not that cold anymore so I can’t replicate the problem.
Work’s fine in “normal” temperatures. And I love the tint of this light.
I need more S2+ heads. Id love to just order maybe 10 heads with pills to sink LED and Driver combos into. The hosts arent badly priced, but if I could spend half as much for just the top half It would be worth it.
I need to grab a Crescendo and a Dr Jones driver, as well as a 319AT to add to my lineup
lusan_senna, in your photos the 4500K CRI 80+ (upper photo) has a clear lens and the 4000K CRI 90+ (bottom photo) has the floody / diffused lens, correct?
Also the SC600Fc IV Plus Hi CRI XHP50 is only available with floody diffused lens?
This one: SC600Fc Mk IV Plus 18650 XHP50 Floody 4000K High CRI Flashli
Yes! it’s right!
I couldn’t get them to sell me even the tail caps separately.