Looking for ideas on special modes/functions for my new EDC e-switch user interface.
Here is list of what I have in mind now. Looking for more ideas.
1. Adjustable Strobe/beacon
2. Adjustable Bike flasher
3. Adjustable Auto off timer with Jealous light toggle
4. Voltage Report
5. Sports Mode
6. Force on, or Mode memory
7. Momentary (anything)
8. Save settings
9. Temperature report
10. ML super low sub lumen
11. Muggle or Loaner mode
12. Electronic Lockout
I have used some form of these features on other lights and like them all.
Of course all the blinkys will be well hidden but also easy to get to!!
At this time ML, Voltage report,beacon and Momentary are my most used.
What special modes do you use most? How? When? etc etc
Light-painters like/need single-freq strobes, so might want to add that.
Whut’s a “sports mode”?
And “jealous light”?? Something with a horrible green tint?
I do like a forced “momentary mode”, eg, do something like a quad-click to get to it, it flashes a few times, then any press of the switch lights it up in its last-used-mode (eg, turbo, mid, whatever). Another quad-click to revert back.
I will edit OP. When I say Variable strobe/beacon I mean user Adjustable, ramps from slow beacon to crazy fast strobe.
Sports mode— Prevents light from turning off. Requires a power cycle to reset.
Jealous light— Freaks out after certain amount of time, then shuts off.
Force= pick a brightness level/ function. Click 6 times light always turns on at that level/function. Click 6 times from Off to return to last mode memory.
Momentary= Click 5 times, pick brightness level/function, after 3 seconds of no activity light locks into momentary. power cycle to exit.
I like ML, beacon, and batt check. Don’t have much use for muggle mode. If I have to explain a flashlight to ya, chances are I ain’t loaning it to ya. I got single mode sk68’s for that.
I never use blinkies and hate when they get on the way. It’s good that you want them hidden….
I use battery check often though. I actually prefer a scale like 1-4 to direct voltage readout.
There would be less counting on the 1-4 scale. I have a h17f driver that does 1-10 but 3-4 is time to change cell. On a voltage readout 3.9 would be 12 counts.
Wonder what a good 1-X scale would be for decent accuracy and quick reading?
12 counts + a pause in the middle.
But for me the reason to prefer less is not time - it’s simplicity. Voltage readout is a 13 to 15-step scale over a complex curve. I prefer the fw writer to do the math necessary to make the scale linear. And I really don’t need the 15-step precision.
Just to clarify the nonlinearity…a voltage readout vs capacity, Samsung 35E:
14 = 4.2V = 3.4 Ah left, 0 = 2.8V = 0 left.
Scale above is linear with capacity in Ah, not in Wh which correlates with runtime for linearly driven lights. For FET it’s much more complex as it depends on the LED…
A special mode/function I’ve programmed into my lights is when I use them as bike lights to be seen (not to see). It’s a two blink beacon flash with 3 second interval, but with constant back-light. So it’s on in lower mode but the beacon flashes are of a higher mode.
I use 5 step voltage blinks for my lights. 5 blinks means 4 volts or above, 1 blink means lower than 3 volts. I don’t care about being exact linear but the steps are closer the higher the voltage is.
carrying it further……
Bio-input strobe set for Beta, Alpha, Theta, and Delta brainwave frequencies along the line of the Aletheia Foundation’s I.S.I.S. (Integrated Stimulating Intensity Stroboscope), itself an inspired invention/adaptation of a professional tool used by Psychiatry and Psychology professionals.
*BTW: Aletheia’s Founder Jack Schwarz was the Real Deal, a good friend, and truly loving individual.
As you are considering having bike light options you might want to implement “bike bump detection”, providing your driver hardware supports it. A bump is a very short power off cycle caused by battery rattle when riding over bumps, way to short duration to be able to do with a clicky off press.
When a bump is detected the light does not change modes or reset anything, it continues along as if it was never off, regardless of mode memory settings. Without this bump detection, any small bump that causes a very quick power off cycle will change mode if the light is clicky switch, or will reset the light if it’s an E-switch light with mode memory turned off.
I believe this is a Toy Keeper original idea, at least it was from her I saw this for the first time. I love this feature and now have it in all my lights.
Bike flasher will be adjustable, brightness and frequency.
On your 5 step scale , when do you change cell, at one blink?
My drJones H17F driver has bump detection. I have tried many lights on my bars, and never had any change modes or shut off while hitting bumps. I am not that aggressive. Have had magnet tail lights blink while attaching them to something. But not go off or change modes.
I think it would be easy enough to add.
My point is having “back lighting” on these strobe modes also adjustable. Instead of blinking between on and off, I can have them blink between low and high.
I’d change earlier if I have spares with me, but see no need to measure below 3V. I set critical shutdown at 2.7V.
