Did this today. Armytek Partner C1. Replaced driver with early H17f. Used stock MCPCB. Its much thinner then anything I have. And I don’t mind the tint. Flush reverse clicky mod was done week or so ago. Big AT clip for deep pocket carry and it still tail stands. I have 18650 body and forward click switch if I want to change it up.
Thank You CRX.
!
What do you want to mod?
I replaced my led with a Lh351D 4000k using hot air without removing the mcpcb from the light
Doing a driver swap. The screws in the photo above destroyed driver 
I’m surprised you were able to get away with that with the rivets still in place and the MCPCB connected to the thermal path. It certainly makes modding the Prime/Partner a whole lot easier.
OP, why did you put screws through the driver? 
I am replacing the driver.
Drilled the rivets, removed the MCPCB. Drilled small holes(2) inserted 2 screws and ripped out the driver. The potting fought me but I won I flat bit screwdriver in a drill broke it out.
I am about done.
The driver is soldered on the back of the copper ring, the blob of solder you see looking down the tube is extra.
Chadvone:
“I am replacing the driver.
Drilled the rivets, removed the MCPCB. Drilled small holes(2) inserted 2 screws and ripped out the driver. The potting fought me but I won I flat bit screwdriver in a drill broke it out.
I am about done.”
Nice work. 
Thanks, getting ready to do some eyeball testing against some of my other lights.
Been EDCing this light since the mod. I love it. Turbo is much brighter then my Armytek Prime Pro C1. I got wondering about run time, and I wanted to do some playing with my camera so I decided to shot a run time time lapse video.
Left Light-Armytek Partner modded with H17F driver, stock XM-L2 CW led.
Right LIght Armytek Prime Pro C1. XP-L NW Stock.
The H17F is running on 2 year old heavily used Nitecore IMR 700
The Prime C1 is running on lightly used WindyFire IMR 600
I know this is not that scientific. But it gives me a comparison of how much usable light I can get out of my EDC if I choose to run them on MAX/TURBO.
What the video don’t show is the end of the run, my camera battery died at 999 photos.
Anyone want to guess the winner?
Very interesting to see the two lights compared with different drivers. The H17F is def brighter and last longer, but the the Prime C1 with stock driver does a much better job at regulating the light. Super consistent until the battery gets too weak.
Great job on giving the light a second life.
The H17f started off brighter, dimmed faster(thermal limit set to low maybe), then got brighter as it found its sweet spot.