【convoy】XHP70.3 HI R9050 6500K available

Hadn’t thought about that specific combo, but I’ll take one :slight_smile:

Let me explain my reasoning here; once you get into the whole flashlight hobby, black starts do dominate really quickly, especially when you have multiple flashlights of the same model, just with different emitters. So a bit colour would be nice to keep them apart. Even a ring or coloured tailcap would be enough.

The S2+ range has been really nice in this respect. Have 1 of each colour, except black. Very easy to identify which one to use, before you even pick it up.
Recently I’ve started preferring 21700 flashlights, and thus the S21A. I love the matte colours, but it I don’t mind having some more colour options (blue, cyan, silver, etc). Hence my interest in a matte blue S21A (and/or S21B).

I like the M21B due to its better heatsinking, while still being able to stick in into a pocket. It’s the smallest FC40 capable host available and this has quickly become my favorite. But I ended up sticking a small sticker on each to remember which colour temperature they are. Don’t know if shiny colours (e.g. S2+) would work good for this model but matte colours might be good.

Good to see a diffuser for the M3/M3-C added to the Convoy Store.
(Unfortunately I just ordered a M3-C last week, so will have to put a separate order in for the diffuser now).

yeah I would like M21B in silver or really any brighter colour, makes it easier to spot.

1800-2000K is now available on all existing GT-FC40 lights. Patiently waiting for M21F with FC40 to come out.

Several drivers were formed on 3v 3a, Which LED will be brighter cri>90 , 219b 219c sst20 sh351d , one of those that Simon has.

That should answer your question :

And with a current of more than 3a, will it not burn with a blue flame?
5a good for lh351d 5000k? (driver for sst40 5a)

Convoy already uses a 5A driver for the LH351D.

Saw. Many thanks!

If you have any dead/discarded household led bulbs, many of them have a plastic dome/diffuser that will fit the M3C bezel wonderfully with just a small amount of trimming the opening. Most are easy to remove from bulb body, usually held with a little silicone-type glue, sometimes a harder clear glue. I can often just twist/rock them off but scoring first with a utility knife will help stubborn ones to break free (literally) where you can then still trim them if they have the lip on the bottom. The ones with a somewhat squattier profile are a better match for the light…works really nicely.

GT FC-40 vs B35am

It’s me again with stupid questions. Has anyone managed to install b35am in a smooth reflector without artifacts? What host did you use? I have a dark spot in the middle on m21b.

It may not be led related but simply be off-focus. But not owning a B35AM I can not speak from experience with the led itself.

When I insert an LED with a dome, there are no such problems.
I understand that the problem is with the reflector, can someone solve the problem?

Try shimming up the centering gasket. I like to stick some masking tape on the back side of the gasket and then trim around the edges with an exacto knife. That will elevate it a bit. A few layers of tape may be enough to adjust the focus and get that spot to go away.

I know with Noctigon DM11, Hank was having the same issue. Then he started putting in some spacers to raise the optic up a bit and now the B35AM beam looks fine.

Is it possible for the ‘2.5A driver for red light’ to have 12 groups firmware?

Thanks! I tried, it’s still not right. Simon promised to release OP reflector for m21b under b35am in a couple of weeks

I’d bet it needs lowered if anything. I.e. thinning the gasket. The B35A is a quad die, so it may always have a slight donut hole in an SMO, but I feel it shouldn’t be too bad.

I stuck one in a L2. Still need to adjust the gasket (higher or lower, don’t know yet) , but i like it so far.

See also comment #10979 concerning a slightly darker center.

edit:
Don’t have time to mess with the gasket height at the moment (sick 3yo at home), but I did manage to snap a photo of the darker spot with the L2 SMO. It starts to become visible at 1.5m. Under that, the beam is even.

Hi Simon :face_with_monocle:

Why don’t you print the CE marking on the covering boxes that come with your flashlights? It could save prospective customers from potential hassle with local customs officers in Europe.