Thank you. I re-measured with full 4.16v battery and still only see 0.7 to 1 mA, with 3 lights S21Dx2 and M21B. How I measured: rear cap off, one probe on negative end of battery, other probe clamped to spring, then touch edge of cap to edge of battery tube and measure when blue LED is on. Did I do this correctly?
To double check, I had also set aside a S21D for 3 weeks (and a bunch other lights) and the result was min voltage drop in S21D’s battery, and consistent with a 1 mA drain.
Just Google checked: other people got high parasitic drain like yours, but someone on Reddit had same observation as mine - light went for weeks and very little voltage drop. Strange.
I replaced GT FC40 in M21B with 12V XHP70.3 HI but it malfunctions, there is loud whine from the driver and brightness cant be changed.
I notice GT FC40 driver in convoy store specifically says it’s not designed for XHP35 so maybe this was to be expected?
What is it about the driver that makes it incompatible with other 12V emitters?
Could it be modded to work with XHP70.3?
If you swapped the led to GT-FC40 mcpcb, then negative and positive pads of the XHP70.3 are in contact with normally electically insulated thermal pad. So it doesn’t work properly.
Thank you! I am fairly OCD about testing and being the sole person who got 1 ma was driving me a little nuts. :person_facepalming: :innocent: A couple more questions please:
1. So which method is “right,” or rather, more indicative of actual condition? Mine, or yours (power supply at button board)?
2. I mentioned I had left S21D for 3 weeks and measured voltage drop as a result of the blue light switch (I know not linear, but just want a rough confirmation) and the result does not support a 9 mA parasitic drain of S21D at all (I plan to redo this test to make sure I didn’t screw up). Any comment or explanation from anyone on this “mystery” of Convoy blue light switch please? Anduril Dim Button (~100 µA drain measured): 0.079 volt Anduril Bright Button (~1.5 mA drain measured): 0.164 v Convoy S21D Blue Metal Button (4.1v: 9.4 mA , at 3v: 2.74 mA): 0.067 v
The button has only resistors and leds, it’s basic Ohm’s law and the specifications on AliExpress are correct, considering the leds forward voltage and the 300 ohms resistors.
When installed you are adding additional (unknown… depending on the driver? I really don’t know much about drivers… and far from expert in electronics) resistance to the circuit.
Still, the specifications on AliExpress are fine, maybe it should be noted that the actual drain depends on the flashlight used.
Can I ask if there are any plans to make a green ar version of the m21d front glass? And is it possible to make the m21d source code available, so that the community can make modifications? (I’m assuming that the mcu is exposed on the driver and works with a soic8 test clip or similar)
Will the T3 be available in titanium again? I hope so - the one I ordered looks like it may have disappeared in transit. I’ll wait longer but if it’s lost I would sure like to order another titanium.
It returns over time. As a retailer I’ve had to disassemble every Z1 and lube it, only for it to later return. I’ve stopped stocking this model for this reason, too much work
XHP70.3 came on it’s own MCPCB from kaidomain.
I thought maybe difference in Vd but they basically same for XHP70.3 and GT FC40, other than that I don’t know what it could possibly be. Maybe they soldered XHP70.3 for 6V by mistake?nvm, I checked PCB on kaidomain and it’s def 12V one.
Maybe the driver got damaged when doing the swap… I need to check.Aaaaaand, yup. It did get damaged during… oh well.
Doh! My order for M21B MAO with GT FC40 already shipped. Sigh…
I already have a MAO K36c with 70.3 HI 5000k coming while I was waiting for this.
Do I really need another MAO M21B so I can get 70.3 on it? Decisions…might just go with an M21F so I have that light too, but I really don’t like that hard-to-press button.
