I did an emitter swap yesterday and I’d be happy to share my findings. Since I can’t find any other modding thread for this beauty I feel honored to start one.
note: the SS bezel rests directly on the glass, the gasket is underneath the glass
After opening I saw quite unique LED MCPCB (reminds me of previous Raccoon’s City avatar :sunglasses:
Replaced it with a reliable L4P MCPCB with soldered de-domed SST-40. Put good MX-4 from Arctic.
I was expecting the 5000K temperature will go towards 4000K so I did comparison with other 4K LEDs. Unfortunately my phone camera did not a great job and I can clearly see it’s colder than 4000K, but the tint is hard to read. Obviously more green and less red. But still I find it less greenish than domed version.
The beam got tighter. Hotspot is more intense and sides are less illuminated - this was my aim. It became even more throwy. Really - it’s a great flashlight, well made with a lot of care and attention. Some night pics (sorry, I’m not a good photographer, I know)
Looks good 1stein! By gasket do your mean o-ring? Interesting it’s under the glass, I hadn’t heard that before. Is the reflector a standard shape or does it have a “shelf” like the X6? I’m still waiting for my D80, still stuck in customs
Referring to a previous comment of yours, that Luxeon does look good! Looks very similar to the XPL-HI 5A3. Although that FB4 looks nicer than any of mine!
Nice subject for a thread. My mod was already buried in the D80V2 thread, so I copy/pasted it below. I also just found a very nice mod there with a XHP35 hi from contactcr that I completely missed, I hope that he will repost it here too, with some numbers and beamshots added
Thanks.
Yes, I mean o-ring. The ref has no shelf but the o-ring goes between the head and the ref. Glass lens is pushing the o-ring down from the top. Same way as in Jaxman Z1. Then on the top of glass goes the ss bezel which touches/pushes the glass lens directly.
Edit: The lens is fitted quite tight and tends to stick to the rubber o-ring beneath. This may cause some challenge to lift up the glass lens in order to take it out. I was clumsy enough to make a little Crack on the glass which can be seen on above picture, around 7 o’clock if you imagine clock’s dial.
Ah that sucks, as long as it doesn’t affect the beam then that’s ok.
I’m not keen on the idea of bezel against glass. I wonder if a small o-ring would fit under there? Or, could you move the existing o-ring to between lens and bezel? Has anyone tested the water resistance?
I’ll likely be copying Djozz and look to swap in an LH351D of some sort. Possibly even try my first slice.
The crack hides under the bezel entirely, so I was quite lucky in my bad luck. You probably could for tiny o-ring there, but that might allow getting more dust in between.
XHP35 HI 4500K 80CRI w/ MTN-BST3 driver (12V ~2.3A)
Grinded out a small part of driver cavity with dremel to fit boost inductor
Bypassed tail spring, driver spring is a BeCu spring so I left that as is
Not sure how much 80CRI bin is costing me in output/throw but some quick measures looks like 1,726lm and 85.2kcd (using HS1010A meter) so maybe 15-20% less than a 70CRI would?
Indoor beam shot, focus seems good with the spare XP ring included:
