I love the size and shape of Eagletac lights, I love how thin they are relative to everything else out there. Some models even come with Nichia as an option which is great.
My only complaint with them is I don’t like their UI.
I’m wondering how hard would it be to drop in a different control module with a different LED to get a UI I like more and maybe a little more output?
The D3A/D3C are the titanium models and I’d prefer those if I could but if the aluminium models D25A/D25C are easier for some reason I’d work with it.
I have no soldiering iron or anything like that so I’d need drop in parts if possible.
They’re extremely easy to mod. Bezel screws off, parts fall out. You can even remove the pill in the d25c. Some titanium models don’t have the bezel and can’t be worked on.
The answer is no . Almost no lights are made that simple . that was the attraction of the P-60 lights .. Actually it seemed cooler than it really was . Swapping drop ins in or out of a light really never happened and it was just easier to have a cheap host (ultra-fire or solarforce ) to throw it in.. instead of a big briefcase with slots cut out of the foam .
It’s got memory mode and also comes on in L>M>H if you want that. Two full cycles before the blinkies, but you can soft press up until your seventh step and go back to zero.
Moonlight if you want it.
It’s a fantastic light, the ’14 Ti. version that I have, IMO. Looks sharp, is slender and short and is easily cleaned. Plus it’s got a GITD switch boot and nice clip.
I haven’t tried the CR123 lights but with the AA/14500 lights I don’t like that when you put in a 14500 you don’t have a moonlight mode anymore. I’d prefer to mode the D3A or D25A clicky because I vastly prefer a slimmer light but if I can’t I might just grab the D25C or D3C with a Nichia and call it done because at 20mm it’s slimmer than some of the other 14500 lights out there (I’m looking at you Reylight)