You can see the archived poll results on the Wayback Machine:
https://web.archive.org/web/20221220093741/https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72582
I’ve narrowed my search for a bicycle helmet flashlight (already have a thrower for the handlebars… CREE XM-L T6 C8 pulling ~2a) to these two. I have a 1/2 hour commute, so having runtime >1/2 hour is a must and an SOS mode for daylight riding is desired. The High modes (~3-4a) for these lights are nice to play with, but I’m looking for something with a setting that draws ~2.0a. Which would you pick?
-Which weighs less?
–Which is longer in length?
–Which throws more?
-Which is more floody?
-What amperage are you seeing at the tailcap in medium mode?
They seems very similar, so I’m looking for a little guidance.
Many thanks!
Both flashlights are much more floody that my C8, so I’m not concerned there. I guess I’m most concerned with the draw. I really can’t have a fantastically bright flashlight on my helmet for 25 minutes, and then have it go out w/ 5 minutes remaining on my bicycle commute. 
This is what I know from reading reviews of the Ultrafire from various owners….
User1…
3.5-3.8A high
1.7-1.8A medium
0.2-0.3A low
User2…
high freq pwm (a good thing)
User3…
2a high
User4…
4a high
User5…
1.5a high
0.8a medium
0.2a low
User6…
3.6a high
1.8a medium
150ma low
This is what I know from reading reviews of the Ultrafire from various owners….
User1…
4.7aA high
2.34a medium
.42a low
User2…
3.8a high
User3…
4.7a high
high pwm (a good thing)
Welcome to the BLF.
The UF2100 is a nice pocket-sized light, and as you mentioned, medium should do you right.
I wonder why you show only one post ? You've posted three times in this thread alone.
Bster13 are you talking about the ultrafire C8 or HD2011?
I have both, the C8 pulls 3A on unprotected panasonics, 2.5A on trustfire protected cells.
The HD2011 pulls 2.5A on my panasonic unprotected cells, and 2.15A on my trustfire protected cells when fully charged.
The HD2011 for the first 15-20 minutes is a real pocket rocket and gets hot, although kept reasonable when cycling. It cools down noticeably after 20mins as the current drops. I’ve had mine going for 1.5 hours and still going strongly on a trustfire flame, I really like it and it is a terrific flooder for cycling, producing a bright wall of light and it throws as well. The current seems to drop significantly after 15-20 mins so it seems to have good runtime also, while maintaining good brightness.
Edit: you’re referring to the HD2011, thought you were someone different to the original poster before rereading 
Thanks for the info whokilledJR,
I am using used laptop batteries, so my reading probably won’t be as high in these unregulated lights.
This is the C8 I already purchased and will be mounting to my handlebars:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320947591814?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
(pulled ~2a on my used laptop batteries)
I’m not trying to compare this light to anything else, I was just providing additional information on my setup.
I am trying to compare the Ultrafire/Fandyfire HD2011:
vs. the UniqueFire HD2100:
http://us.dinodirect.com/led-flashlight-super-bright-1000lm-5mode-cree-t6.html?cur=USD
No worries Bster13, although I don’t have the 2100 I would say the HD2011 is the better option if it’s flood you want as it has an OP reflector. The 2100 seems to have an SMO reflector from those images. I’m thinking of getting another HD2011 and having 2 of these running on my bike as they are great bike lights.
Hrmm…dealextreme shows the Fandyfire HD2011 light with a SMO reflector:
http://s.dealextreme.com/search/FandyFire+HD2011
And DD shows the Ultrafire HD2011 w/ OP reflector:
http://us.dinodirect.com/flashlight-hd2011-t6-1000lm-mode-led.html?DDID=3520-616
I got mine from a local dealer in Vietnam with an OP reflector. Theres also the marsfire HD2011 version which I’ve heard good things about from manafont:
The Fandyfire HD2011. It was only a few bucks more than the 2100, and everyone seems to lean towards it. I think/hope it will work out well w/ current draw on medium. We shall see, I appreciate the help!
Good choice. I own both and the 2011 is a better light all around. With a reflashed Nanjg driver it'd be a phenomenal light.
I’ve got both those lights. For a more floody bike lit, the Fandyfire is the way to go. It is one of my favorite lights and I use it along with my Keygos clone on my bike. It is more floody than the UF-2100 and mine is brighter than the 2100.
Then perhaps I made the right decision.
Does your 2011 have a smooth or orange peel reflector?
I would think the 2100 would have better throw with 18mm reflector vs. 16mm of the 2011. But I opted for the smooth reflector as I’m hoping it’s not “too” floody (whatever that is to each person :p).
I really would recommend it with an OP reflector more than an SMO. It still throws well for a small form factor with an OP and the beam pattern would be much smoother. It shouldn’t be hard to find an OP reflector for it, you might want both so you can play around with the beam profile.
I got the OP reflector and it is nice. A very even flood with more brightness in the middle but no discernible hot spot. The 2100 has a hot spot but also has lots of spill. The 2100 makes a better EDC light because it only has three modes and is a good flood throw mix. The Fandyfire makes a perfect bike light for lighting up the road in front. Unless you are traveling at full road bike speed of 18mph, the Fandy still throws enough light out ahead to see what you need.
Doing a test w/ my used laptop batteries (fully charged with my new Xtar WP2 II!) in my C8 XM-l (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320947591814?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649).
Running it for 30min on high (~2a draw on freshly charged (well) used laptop battery measuring 4.16a) and man this thing is cooking!
30 min is my bike commute time….once it runs its full 30min, I’ll take the battery out and measure its resting voltage, hoping for 3.6v or greater (or risk cell damage, right?).
I can only imagine how hot, how fast the FandyFire 2011 gets w/ ~3.8 - 4.7a draw. :o
Good thing I’ll be using it on medium.
After 35minutes of run time, tailcap reading was 1.6-1.75a
Resting voltage 3.73v (yeah!) <recovered to 3.77 after a few minutes of rest>
Popped in a used laptop battery I charged this evening, w/ resting voltage of 4.12v and the light went back up to ~2a tailcap reading.
Is this sound testing for all these used batteries? So long as they don’t vent for 35minutes of continuous run time on High, and don’t drop below 3.6v, I’m good to go, right?
From the battery I used last night, just ran…
after 5 additional minutes on high…
1.7a
3.73v
(40 min total)