The Fireflies E12R can easily sustain 1,000 lumens for over 1 hour given how many emitters it has and the very efficient LUME driver and there are plenty of good tint/CRI options. The Olight Seeker 3, Olight Perun 2, and Olight Warrior 3S can also achieve this with their ultra efficient drivers but they only come in standard CRI CW tint. The Emisar D4K should also have no problem with the boost driver but it doesn’t have usb recharge. Keep in mind these lights all have high quality, high efficiency, regulated drivers unlike many of the lower cost linear driver lights that are much less efficient and their light output tapers down with battery voltage.
Can I ask why 1000 lumens? I went for a long night in a forest walk a few weeks ago with a 7,000 lumen light and didn’t use any power level above 200 lumens.
One of the rarer Sofirn/Wurrkos lights that has the steak to back up the sizzle, with a good driver.
For those who don’t consider Anduril a necessity, it’s a arguably a better light than its sibling TS21; more flood, doesn’t suffer severe step downs, only a slightly longer form factor. If they had gone all the way with a high CRI version of the emitter, the contest would be sealed.
To me, like the SP35, it’s a sleeper, or at least started out that way. Nobody paid any attention to it early on, but strong fundamentals have made it a more common sight now. It’s also a potential candidate for the OP, though at about the 800lm level, with a beam tipped on the throw side of the scale.
Shows what the brands are capable of, still at a budget price, which makes it all the more frustrating that most of what they sling is the cheap FET-driven stuff.
1000 lumen is approximately 3 Amperes from a single cell.
So you need more than 3Ah (3000mAh) battery capacity to provide that current for an hour, so the obvious battery choice i think would be one of those 4900mAh 21700’s that are rated for 10 Amperes max continuous discharge current, run and LED at 10 Watts or so and there you should be able to get 1000 lumen for 90 minutes.
Heat may be something to look into, since even a C8 type body gets hot at 10 Watts, eventually.
You might want to use a highly efficient LED (big die, underpowered, 5000 - 6000K,lower CRI) driven with less Current, like 2.3 Amperes or something.
An efficient buck driver could be better than a linear constant current driver if the Vf of the LED at 1000 lumens output is not far above 3 Volts (like with an underpowered LED).
Thanks for the input guys! Much to learn- Before I popped this question I did order the D4V2 but without the boost driver as I saw somewhere that it was overkill. Will do some playing when it arrives and will see if it makes me happy.
Yes I know 1000 LM is a bit much for walking at night and actually since we live in the country on some nights zero light is required but just threw that out as a #. I believe I am just seeking something easily carried in pocket with a high run time if needed.
Well it just so happens that I recently purchased the E07…………
Also recently acquired the Imalent LD70 which has a nice floody bean but dies out rather quickly at 900 lumens.
Started with a few rovyvons and learning everyday! I had no idea that their are flashlight addicts worldwide and some really great flashlights. My friends think I’m odd and my wife knows I am crazy but much cheaper than collecting fishing rods…….
Straying pretty far from the OP original request but, my FW3X works well for where I walk at night. More light intensity would be nice but, then I would not be able to put it in the "watch" or "fifth" pocket of my blue jeans.
When I think about 1,000 lumens, I'm also thinking about >100m range as well, not a general walking around flashlight.
1000 lumens at 100lm/W light efficiency equates to a power draw of 10W, easily doable with any remotely driver efficient light, and for almost 2 hours using high capacity 21700/26650 cells.