Nope, you missed….
I think you’ve been hit!
ROFLMAO
Did not.
The beta boards are posted.
My ray gun has laser sights. I. Never. Miss.
Did too!
Speaking of beta boards, these have been built and tested… 20mm Nanjg 105C compatible driver on OSHPARK.COM
...and speaking of testing (sorry to steal your thunder TP) I've already some changes to the TINY10 based on feedback received from Rufus. The new layout is MUCH better. Frankly I'm a bit embarrassed I didn't think of some of these things before. Happy to learn though :) Anyway - point is once you receive the demos please post your impressions so if any other changes are required I can make them.
I'll probably share the project on OSHPark the same way TexasPyro has done, though I'll be happy to supply Gerber files to anyone wanting to use a different Fabricator (for thinner than 1.6mm boards for example). That being said I received my first ever batch of OSHPark boards this week and I think the quality is excellent. The gold plating is nice, the purple is sexy, the silkscreen is flawless; and I use really small lettering. My only gripe is how little they clean up the panelizing tabs (Seeed do a good job of it) but you can't have everything.
My driver was done with Eagle. You can download the .BRD file from OSHPARK, feed it into the freeware version of Eagle, and export the layers in various formats (Gerber, DXF, etc). Also, many board fabricators accept Eagle .BRD files directly.
I use Eagle as well, but completely forgot that OSHPark allows you to upload .brd files direct. I guess I like to use Gerbers because I know exactly what I should be getting. I have found that OSHPark's automated scanner can do some funny things, though the boards I ordered in this first run appear to be perfect. Meh - I'll give Gerber, .brd, .sch or whatever people want. This driver is open source really :)
When the time comes I would like to see about getting thin 1mm boards done even if it means having to get 100 of them or the cost is a bit more. Don’t care about panelizing but do want them cut out. I could get a fine tooth 13mm hole saw but would prefer not too.
im down if u want to split cost 
Looks like these people will charge you $64 for the pleasure with gold pads… for $164 bucks you could get 500. Their minimum charge for boards is for up to 5x5 cm. You might want to talk to them about what a panelized board would cost. You could get a LOT of the puppies on a larger panel.
When we gt to that point I want to find the level of interest and order a surplus but not a lifetime supply. The intersection of members who mod 10440 lights and those willing to do this mod might only be 10-20 or fewer in which case 100 boards would be enough. I don’t mind getting stuck with 30-40 extras but 430-440 would be wasteful.
got the board today. ill try to assemble tonight
They have a nice work up page and I went through it with these selections:
2 layer
10 pcs 5 cm x 5 cm
16 sub boards
.8mm thickness
HASL
Green solder mask (only free color)
Price came up at ~$130 for 160 boards. I don’t know if they will do only square cuts or round or if I neglected to include something vital but seems like we might be able to do better but ok if worst case.
I ran the same numbers at get $9.90 … if you can get 16 boards off a 5x5 cm panel
You should ask them about the best way to get the boards (i.e. routing the round boards). Even if you had to pay for a 5x5 cm board for each one their cost shows $47.56 for 100 boards.
Count me in. If nothing else I can flick them at naughty children. 
There was a $121 charge for 16 subpanels from the 5 x 5 boards. This just shows how little I know about this.
Courtesy bump.
What, exactly, I’ve done remains to be seen.
I need someone to guide me on what goes to the emitter and where the positive/negative leads to the contact board need to go so I can test it. Yes, I know, there is microscopic solder paste on the board. Some of that I’ve already cleaned off, I will clean the board with some alcohol before I put power to it. I think it might be prudent to touch on the contacts again with a hot iron and make certain all points are solid, such a tiny bit of solder paste was used I’m not sure of it.
