I sanded down the narrow tip with 1000 grit paper, made sure to get the flats nice and square to the conical surface (helps to see where the contact point is) and it seems to be doing fine now. Since I know squat about re-tinning an iron, I just used my Kester solder paste and loaded it up, transferred that to a piece of brass, and wiped it clean in my station. I figured solder paste is mostly flux anyway, and it’s silver now, so I guess it’s all right. Sure is easier with this tip to put a tiny resistor on the old board!
I’ll be ordering some S series tips to get a narrower profile for chip stacking, have issues from time to time with the breadth of the conical taper wanting to touch other components.
So that’s what was happening. I was having troubles the other day, had the weller on for a long time due to interruptions. I just figured the problems I had were just from inexperience. Darn solder kept beading up and falling off. Melted a chip concentrating on the tip and the solder. LOL. Guess its the coating and inexperience.
That was why I milled the curve but at the end of the day having adjustable temp and alternate tips with a much finer point option has proven its worth to me.
Oh..that is for his 092 driver, not sure if he has "shared" that board yet
(not sure if he is waiting for a fully operational board before he opens it up, there are a few that have gotten em done [still waiting on the 7135 board for components here])
I believe the stuff from the 17.5 is the same as the 10mm, just smaller board and less regulator chips, same schematic and everything, in fact he was saying to rob the components from the bigger board to make the smaller board, so you do have a list of components
Correction, the 92 is based upon a different micro controller, not an ATtiny13A (but gives 8K firmware space vs 1K I believe)
Hi Sirius, this is just a preliminary effort. Matthaus has already done a new layout that should address many of the difficulties encountered on this one( other than sheer minisculeness). The easiest way to get a kit is to pick out a nanjg 105C driver with a set of programs you like and transfer the parts from that board to this one. The stars on a 17mm board connect to pins on the IC so choosing mod groups is a matter of jumping a pin to ground stead if the corresponding star. That was always my plan since I lack the capability to program one myself. Since there’s only one 7135 footprint you would have to stack them to get your desired output and then add a positive contact pad for battery +. My original intent was to use them in Solitaire and AAA Minimag mods but they should work in other hosts as well. I think Warhawk-avg is trying a scratch build and this sort of idea is going on at the other end of the driver spectrum as well.
Right now not getting anything done because all my stuff is stuck in "shipping hell" from FT and all that...still waiting on my components for my daggum 12vdc desulfators too..uggh
Don’t sweat it. Nobodies been beating down the door for these yet and I started the thread months ago. I think we’re close to making an actual order but I’d rather waste a bit of time now than have a coffee can full of tiddlywinks later.
I'm at work so can't really spend too much time looking, but has anyone got a link to the stock driver's connectivity diagram? I know it exists - I see it all the time except for when I actually want it. I am going to add solder points for the MCU legs to act as the stock drivers 'stars' and number them as well. That way people can transfer the MCU and solder the legs for different mode groups easily if they want.
Also if anyone is interested I can probably pre-build a few for anyone who just wants this driver and isn't really interested in the DIY route. Provided I'm not stepping on any toes of course. I've sat down and hand built in one sitting 30+ drivers of a similar design (but with more AMC chips) in the past, so the TINY10s would be a walk in the park for me.
Thanks Helios. That's even better than the diagram I was thinking of :)
Just a quick observation; I was always under the impression that you needed to sever star 1's connection to ground before you could solder 2, 3, or 4 to ground. Looking at the above diagram, cutting star 1 will do absolutely nothing. It's literally there just for looks.
Sshhh! I’ve been doing my level best to chase people away and here you go making it easier for them. No toes being stepped on here though.
Maybe it’s time to post the new layout.
Here’s the IC pinout anyway.
If the ground vias next to pins (2&3)for stars 2 and 3 were moved to line up with but still be separate from the IC pads it would be just a short jump to ground but on the new layout pin5(star 4) still has to jump over the IC+ - R1 trace. How would you do that?
OK, here's version 2.0, soon to be upgraded to version 2.1:
I'll remove two of the vias from the group of 3 on the left side, and extend some pads from the ground ring towards pins 2 and 3 of the MCU. As for pin 5 I can do exactly the same thing; the IC+ to R1 trace will be covered in sodlermask so provided the user does not damage this mask, adding a bridge of solder over the top of it would be no different to running a trace under a resistor.
An alternate option is that I thin out the really thick trace running under the MCU from R1 to pin 7 (no idea why I made it so thick to be honest) and run the IC+/R1 trace under the MCU instead. This leaves a clean gap between pin 5 and the ground ring.
As I recall, you made it fat because I asked you to but there’s no reason it can’t be a little smaller (20%?). Part of the reason was to have a generous contact ring for the host but mainly it was to force the components into a diameter that can be enclosed in the nylon sleeve I use to insulate the stack of chips from the battery tube. The OD of that tube is 8mm and the ID is 6.5mm. The positive pad wire is potted into this tube and soldered to a copper disc fixed at the end. As long as the OD of the positive thru hole falls into a 7mm cylinder I can cover it with the sleeve to prevent a dead short. It’s a physical requirement only needed for Solitaires that I have to ream out to get past 8mm. A triple A Minimag would not need this. I don’t know what other host requirements are.
If the IC remains centered and the thru holes for led+ and - stay where they are in the new design then the ground ring which looks to be about 1.5mm across could diminish to 1.25mm. Is that enough?
On both designs so far, the diode, the 7135, and the critical vias fall inside 8mm.
