So my choice of LED and drivers works fine, just need a 4S pack.
18650s will drive it nicely.
Great explanation, thanks
And sorry for newb questions.
So my choice of LED and drivers works fine, just need a 4S pack.
18650s will drive it nicely.
Great explanation, thanks
And sorry for newb questions.
Why donât you just use normal ~3V LED and high efficiency buck driver? :S
Because I am trying to use about 10W, 1A from 3 or 4 18650 cells.
Maybe the latest XML could handle it but it would be pushing it too hard, no?
I have a 3 x XML light using 2 18650 cells at 2A and 4A modes. My cells are recycled from laptop packs, so 1A is probably much more realistic. Better ones can handle 2A but wouldnât last.
I suppose I could push 1A for about 4W max into a single XML or something like that.
Hmmmm, maybe that is the way to go. Simpler.
I will have to check what is the max power rating for XML. I though I read some place it is 1A-2A range.
Why not to use 6V MT-G2 then? It can handle as much as 18W of power, and still itâs voltage is low enough to easily drive it from 3 cells.
Max. power range for XM-L is 3A, btw (10W).
I am having a hard time finding MT-G2. Also I am trying to keep it a low budget little experiment.
I can find XML T6 on usual sites like dx and ft, etc.
Well, then just use XM-L, it wonât have a problem with 10W (as long as you cool it down properly!)
So if I downgrade to less power then best combo would be:
buck drivers:
(page says 10W 1A, but single XML at 1A and 3.5V would be 3.5W)
Certainly since it is a desk lamp, size is not a problem. I am going to attach some PC type passive heat sinks.
Iâve tried a couple 12V/10W emitters, similar to what you linked, but from DX.
IMO, the only reason to use them instead of Cree emitters (since they offer emitters with 3.x, 6, 9, 12, an even higher Vf) is because theyâre very floody
sometimes thatâs useful, particularly in an area type light, like say lighting a yard, dock, or in your case, a room.
xm-l is pretty floody though, but if lumens/Watt is more important than a very floody beam profile, go with xm-l, since theyâre a bit more efficient.
using a single 12V emitter could simplify the project, if you figure out the right driver
hereâs a good reference for finding them. it isnât all inclusive, but if you email Ian (heâs also a member here), he does update the info
http://www.videofoundry.co.nz/ianman/laboratory/research/driverlist.php
If youâre still looking for 12V driver, take a look at this one: http://dx.com/p/t6-2500-3000ma-3-mode-regulated-led-driver-circuit-board-for-diy-flashlight-4-5-18v-128269
Cheap & suits all your needs
I would think 2.5 - 3A would fry that 12V/10W emitter pretty quick
I meant it for use with XM-L, not with 12V emitter
I settled on using 2 cheaper XPGs:
XPG
And 2 buck drivers for 2 modes, 1A and 0.3A:
1A
I forgot that my switch is rated for 1A so donât want to go to 2A and 3A levels. I can stay with 3S supply and get about the same light as from 1 XML.
Also will try one of these for cooling:
Or maybe try to combine them ⌠TBD
good luck. take pictures
I looked at it last night, but was confused about switched. In the comments someone suggested switches rated at 1.5A but driver is well over 2A.
I didnât feel comfortable with higher current while my and other listed switches are rated for 1-1.5A
Input current is ~1A at 12V, so if youâd switch input, not output (switching output on such driver, actually, is not recommended at all!) youâd be fine.
Thanks for all the help
Here is current build. The questions are for the next build that should double light output.
I have the same led as mentioned in post 0.
Any datasheets available? Who is manufacturer?
I tried it and it looks very nice.
I have this driver which is 1A capable and dimmable like the other one.
http://www.fasttech.com/p/1110703
I want to mod my desk lamp
A lot of those PT4115 10W drivers have 0.2 and 0.3 ohm current sense resistors in parallel. This gives around 750 mA out. You can parallel them with another 1 ohm resistor to get closer to 1 amp output. When I tried pushing one to the 1.2 amp rating of the chip, it went into thermal shutdown mode. Also, it would probably be a good idea to not let that filter cap rest on the driver chip⌠it gets warm.