Whats the best way to store them, both for camping and in the fridge? Is there a plastic thing that is good and will do it?
For camping, I’d fully charge them.
For anything longer than three months, meaning not in use, I discharge them down to between 3.6v-3.7v, place them in plastic snap cases, then into Ziplock baggies and into the fridge they go.
Chris
I also keep em’ in the fridge right at 34 degrees, discharged to between 3.6 - 3.7V. Most of my collection of lights are stored without batteries, except for a few that actually get used. So I have at least one 27100, 18650, 26650, and a few 14500s charged and in a few lights I tend to use at least once a week or more often. I can borrow from light-to-light as needed too.
For these lights that I use more often, I also tend to keep them charged to about 4.0V Vs. a full charge at 4.2V. I have read here and elsewhere that this extends lifetime and realistically… if I’m not showing them off on “mega turbo” levels, they run fine at between 3.8 - 4V.
But when hunting in fall/winter (at camp 6-8 times a year), that is when stored batteries come out, warm up to room temp, then get a full charge for the road. I use C8F lights on my rifles for night hunting (pigs and coyotes) too. Those batteries are topped off and spares put in the hunt pack. They typically run a total of 5 min per hunt so that’s when I want MAX output 
Any time I take a trip overnight, I also have my EDC and a spare light loaded up and topped off (in the glove compartment). And if more than a few nights… I always drag a set of full charged spare batteries too. After returning home, I run a discharge test on the charger and bring them down to storage voltage and back in the fridge they go.
I do break the rules and keep some smaller 18650s in our cars, and they use Panny INR18650Bs as they are a true and tried, low drain 18650s (and they also sit at about 4V too). I take them out in July and Aug though, as it can get over 100 degrees here then.
I also don’t keep a large surplus, but for my 20 lights or so, I have enough for each light then half as much again for spares for the road. But… now that I own two LT1 lanterns, I have 16 more Pannys than I had two months ago. So the fridge is getting full!!!
what are you running thats so brite, cool
I use C8F (and now C8G) Sofirn lights on my AR’s and a couple of rifles too. ARs (6.8 SPC upper) for pig hunting and 22-250ai (and 243) rifles for coyote hunts. The C8Fs are direct driven off the battery, so I am using high drain Sony vtc5a and 25r 18650s (both higher drain) for those lights.
But the newer C8G here doesn’t need as much current… so I’m thinking the basic Sofirn battery will deliver the 8-9 amps the XHP-35 HI needs for it’s boost driver. But I HAVE some Molicel 35a 21700s if I ever need them 
(probably not though).
Thats cool I been wanting to get into coyote hunting, I live in the middle or know where lots of places to do it. How come you don’t use thermal.
I do use thermal… but at $5k a (good) scope, it is borrowed from a buddy who’s ranch I hunt on in Texas. Don’t need thermal to kill pigs… though thermals make great vids- right?!
I’ve been killing pigs for 25 years with the headlights of the Jeep working fine most times. I also EAT what I kill. So 2-3 pigs in a hunt is MAX for me as butchering takes a lot of time (and I also butcher my own meat 90% of the time too).
I usually now just crash in the blind until I hear a pig around 2 am so so. Then I also use a monocular with night vision to spot and track them. When they get into range, the lights turn on and the shots are made. Thermal or full on white light at that point— doesn’t matter then. The pigs are going to scatter as soon as the first shot goes off.
I prefer a good scope with good light vs. thermal given a choice too. I usually make the shots from the blind, then crash back out until sun up. Then I go find the dead pigs and gut them at daylight.