Since I am still new to this whole building and modding of lights, I wanted to run this by the pros to make sure this would be a good way to go. A buddy of mine is asking for an UltraFire C8 deep body, have to buy an actual light and convert it because I can’t find a blank host, converted to green. Here’s what I had in mind. If any suggestions, please feel free to chime in.
Plan on trying to re-use the pill that comes with the light. I am not exactly sure of the dimensions of the pill, but he may already have this light in red, no writing on body at all, and I took the dimensions of the pill and it was a 17 mm driver with a 16 mm emitter.
From what I understand there is very little difference between a regular c8 and a deep reflector c8, except for the additional length. I would just get the c8 host at fasttech along with your emitter and save ~$5.
But if you’re adamant about dismantling a prebuilt budget light I wouldn’t expect any issues reusing the pill. They don’t glue emitters on lower budge lights, at least in my experience. And if they did you should be able to remove it without damaging the pill anyway.
If you feel comfortable reflowing a LED onto a star, you could use the new XP-E2 in Green (from what I understand it’s a good bit brighter), reflow it on to a 16mm Noctigon (or the equivalent sinkPAD) and then you could push the LED a little harder knowing that you’re evacuating heat more efficiently
EDIT: Another advantage to the C8 (at least the regular, I would imagine the deep-reflector version is the same) is that the driver screws in to the pill, so one less thing to solder. And it makes it nice and easy to upgrade to a 7135-based driver with more chips.
Also, I’m not sure you need to remove 6 7135’s from your driver—the Green XP-E2 should be able to handle at least 4*7135 chips, I’d probably go for 5 or 6. Just because.
He specifically wants a deep. More concentrated beam, less spill, although I agree with you, standard c8 with a wider beam when scanning for eyes across a field. Idk. What about the parts I have selected, do they look good?
Its tempting to go that route but want something simple and more guaranteed to work for someone else and not fail due to the builders error. May try that for myself though.
Well I don’t know for sure that it can, but a lot of BLF’ers push their LEDs a little harder than rated. In this thread, someone is pushing an XP-E2 on a copper pad to 2A. If you’re running aluminum, and you stick w/ the last generation XP-E, it might be safer to simply stick with 1050mA.
I haven’t researched much into color emitters, but XP-E2 has a plateau around 2.5A on a copper board and going above that is mostly pointless. I would be comfortable running one on noctigon using a nanjg 105c driver with only 1 or 2 chips removed.
2A!