I assume machining that shape out of aluminum would be expensive, and look at it this way, theres no ugly scratched anodizing possible on 75% of the light
As long as its good quality thick plastic i think this is a good thing, and the head is aluminum for heat shedding, and the handle won’t get as hot as a 980 lumen convoy m1 or s2
This is correct. Also the light may have next mode memory, I’ll double check when I get into the office tomorrow.
That 2:15 runtime on high is the good old ANSI FL-1 standard at work. Remember that no 4AA light is thermally capable of running at 880 lumens for long. So I would guarantee that there is a timed stepdown.
I don't know about the throw on the E40 I assume it has more throw .Is that what you're looking for ? I really think the LD40 has plenty of throw .
What ?? (sarcasm added for effect).. it's a discontinued model !!!???
I just found out the cars I bought were discontinued too ..I keep getting screwed ..I want my $15,000 back...I knew I should have bought a Hyundai .
Yeah... the Ld41 is the newest model
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?342925-Fenix-LD41-Beamshots-compared-to-LD40
If you can stretch your budget, Sunwayman D40A is $54
The D40A is a fine light indeed. Wish the buttons were easier to find in the dark though.
This Ozark and Coleman look interesting.
Ok, I confirmed it has mode memory, you have to wait 3 seconds before turning the light back on or it'll advance modes. Reverse clicky. Quick non-scientific test doesn't show a visible thermal stepdown and after about 10 minutes or so in 60F ambient temperature it's reasonably hot. Thermal appears to be good enough to not damage the LED before the batteries run down in my opinion. I'd recommend the more cautious to monitor flashlight temperatures themselves. Keep in mind this IS a budget light.
What are the theoretical advantages/disadvantages of 2*AA vs. 3*AA vs. 4*AA when driving an XML? I’ve got a 2*AA Klaurus on order and am interested in getting another AA based light.
Wish granted: Here’s a hint, with eyes closed and by feel, buttons are on opposite side of whatever you attach to lanyard hole 
. Many have commented D40A’s lanyard hole to be worse placement ever. Without said placement, I would be feeling up my light every time I use it.
Personally use an extra leftover sturdy plain nylon zipper pull. Ends together in a single knot and pulled through hole with dental floss. Took apart supplied lanyard to remove lightweight metal clip (metal on metal would also drive me nuts) and reassembled using zipper pull as connector. So with light in jacket pocket, once I feel knot that is looped and snug to hole, I know where buttons are at all times. 
My noob guess at this question would be this:
Pros:
- better runtimes
- more light output depending on what form factor would give you the closest to the max output wattage that the LED can handle.
Cons:
- size
- limited types of shapes for the flashlight. ie- 4*AA = soda can (EA4) vs. long tube (PA40, Starry Light)
I was more interested in a comparison between efficiency. Which lends itself most to driving an XML led. I would think 3*AAA since 4.5v is close to 18650, but I’m not sure if 4v is ideal either.
Thanks for the tip Kst. I have been using the lanyard as a guide, but it's so thin (not the stock lanyard) I can barely feel it either. You got me thinking I should change to a different lanyard.
Some info on 2S, 3S, 4S:
2S - Need a boost type driver which is inefficient and has limited current potential
3S - Very close to the Vf of the emitter. So no driver needed if desired. Limited current potential due to not having much voltage overhead, but better than 2S.
4S - Need buck or linear driver to bring down voltage. Higher levels of current can be delivered to the emitter.
I feel like I left something out above, but can't put a finger on it.
You can count 1S, very close and worse in efficiency than 2S. (1S is not multiple AA)
3S won’t fully drive an emitter and brightness will start falling as soon as the light is turned on
Congrats on Sunwayman :D!
For how much and where did you get those lights?
Im thinking of getting couple of them from Ebay for less than 6$ shipped per one unit, hows the heatsinking and battery runtime, output :D?
Ive started to ask lots of questions here recently, looks like I want to buy yet another light, even tho after I got SD10, D40A and EA8 I thought Im done with new lights for a while :D!
A bit late to the party, but in 4xAA, the D40A is top dog, IMO. Can be found in the mid-$50’s still.
I’m interested in that Starry-Night thing, and the price puts it in budget category for sure…
The only thing i would not like about that D40A is the 3 min turbo, if it had an override for continuous turbo then it would be ideal.
Also got the dive lights from ebay around 6usd, not really tested the runtime or if i did i cant remember. Its really a nice light but being made of plastic, the heat management is pretty poor as it only transfer to the aluminum pill. I believe its only on the 100 lumen range so it could manage.Its great as around the house light or for lending as it runs on AA batts and have decent runtime that will get you through the night.
Thanks, Ian, thats what I wanted to know!
I will probably buy these to replace SD10 on duty right now at the country side :D!
Where the heck did you find them for 6 bucks? Google search shows 80 dollars for a D40. You meant 60 bucks I presume, which is what Im seeing of fleabay
Is it worth the premium over the Starry Light?