I will test them when the leds arrive. I have ordered two from KD. One for me and one for my neighbors Convoy M2.
I got one from KD a month ago. Unsoldered the UV leds on to a series mcpcb and used a modified H1-A driver at about 1.5a to each led. I used the optics that came with it in a convoy S2+. Didn’t seem to put out much UV, my convoy Nichia was brighter.
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I asked Djozz if he knew what was up with it. He told me you can’t use optics, that most of the UV light is absorbed in the optics :person_facepalming: .
Well that explains my problem. Took the light back apart and found the Z5’s were cooked and the optics had melted :cry: .
Ordered a triple aluminum reflector that Djozz suggested and still waiting on the new Z5 board to get here. learned my lesson, Don’t use optics with UV leds. 
With all due respect: don’t carve those words in stone. Optics and lenses can be made of different materials. Test yourself if they are useable or not. Setup your UV-light as a mule, if possible with the PCB screwed to the pill (overheating!). Nothing in front of the led. Place a piece of white paper on the table, and shine on it with your light. You will get a reflection that cannot be missed. :nerd_face:
Now move the optic you want to test between the light and the piece of white paper. If it casts a black shadow, it stops all the UV light. Don’t use that one. But there are also optics and lenses that cast a “grey” shadow, or hardly any shadow at all. Those may be useable, but that is up to yourself.
I’m curious about 1) What triple MCPCB & 2) which triple reflector Djozz recommended to go with it.
Zoom lights may be a not-too-bad option for UV.
Zoomed out you get a wide area with a uniform brightness to find things fast and zoomed in it has the most power on a small spot.
I have not tried a UV zoomie yet but with all UV lights I tried I had problems to quickly scan a room because the beam spot is so small.
Some time ago Convoy offered a BD04 with UV. The choice of small quality zoomie hosts is not wide…
It helps a lot if the zoomie has a glass lens.
About plastic zoomie lenses and also applying to the various TIR optics commonly used: some plastics allow more 365nm light to pass than other plastics, in general PMMA transmits 365nm light better than polycarbonate, but it is always a bit different than the general transmission spectra that you can find on the internet on the various plastics. And I have not found a plastic optic yet that does not block a clearly noticable amount of the 365nm light, at least making the flashlight inefficient while warming up the optic.
I have a question on the subject:
What would happen if I put a ZWB2 filter in a good quality UV zoomie (say perhaps the Jaxman Z1)? Would the image of the die still be projected at perfect focus (zoomed in) or would it not work at all or something in between?
I think that if the aspheric lens stays in the original position in relation to the led, the focus will be hardly or not at all affected. (you could check with a normal transparant glass lens)
I found this diagram (second). It does not show PC but from what I see it is almost the same as PMMA (Acylics).
A glass lens is a must for UV lights.
I’m not sure of which optics might work or will not work. But I do know if you use the optics that come from KD with a triple Z5 led it will melt and produce about as much light as a single 5mm led.
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This is the only triple 20mm reflector I have seen and you have to buy the host, I have yet to finish the build as my new board from KD hasn’t arrived yet.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/White-Yellow-365nm-395nm-UV-3-Light-Source-LED-Flashlight-for-Jade-Jewelry-Gem-Amber-Identification/32856103175.html
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I don’t know if the reflector and the board will even match up yet. Figured I would make it work some how if it didn’t.
Thanks. I’m interested to know how the reflector works out.
I wonder if TIR optics that are sale on Convoy store will work or not for an UV light.
Hello Djozz, I want to ask a question, LG UV LED that sells simon, can be used with 1400 mA controller? I plan to use a S2 convoy as a host, (I already own it), I want to use the lantern for curing uv resins, in the tying of fishing flies, thanks for your reply greetings
Sure it can, and I’m confident that it will survive over time. Use a DTP board though!
OHHH thank you very much Djozz, just one more question, is the ZWB2 filter necessary? Greetings and thanks again!
Whoa. I was into planning to make the same mistake… I planned to install the Z5 triplet from Kaidomain into a Jaxman E2L host, with a 6×7135 3 mode linear driver (700mA for each led).
EDIT Here kaidomain says, that the support team tested the max. forward current for a single LED, which was in the 1.0-1.2A range - you drove them to 1.5A each - could be this a significant factor in the event of them getting cooked?
Thank you guys for these info, it was a ‘life saver’ to me.
I will wait for your modding attempt then, but maybe we could ask BanL from Kaidomain, if he could get that reflector separately.
By the way, do you know, what justifies the big price difference between the Luminus SST-10 UV and the Seoul Viosys Z5?
No, not really. In the niche of these UV-leds there is not the tough competition of white leds that are sold in the billions. So I guess that the selling prices may be more random, more related to actual production costs and less to what the competition sells them for.
The triple aluminum reflector will not work with a triple optic copper board, the led pad spacing is different. The only way I See to use the reflector is to reflow the factory leds off the factory board and reflow the Z5’s on, but the factory board is aluminum. So the Z5’s couldn’t be driven to hard or they might cook. Kind of defeats my purpose of using a boost driver and under drive the leds. Close to the same output might be achieved using a single led and a copper board. Plus the factory board is wired with all the leds sharing the same ground and each has its on positive. That’s how the driver switches between leds. The factory aluminum board would need some modifications to run all the leds in parallel but wouldn’t be that hard. I planned on using a modified H1-A boost driver and use them in series. I’m either going to try parallel with factory board and a different driver or hunt for a glass Aspherical lens to fit the convoy s2 and use my series wired board with the H1-A. Not sure which way I wanna go with this mod.
Until I find a good way to use the SeoulViosys triplet from kaidomain, I will take a plan B.
I will purchase LG UV LED from Simon. Do you think, that this driver could be good for getting into the sweet spot amperage for that LED, or I should rather use a 4(or 5)×7135 driver?