^... This is not a protected cell, but the b3Flex seems to have some protection built in...? If I choose the right type and voltages of cells, things should be copacetic...? An excellent charger, and closely monitor the cells... I plan on a total of at least 12 cells for these (2) x3 cell lights. *SAFETY FIRST*!!!! If I am barking up the wrong tree...yell at me please!
Drivers are making me go crosseyed! Old Lumens seems to say the makers of the b3Flex have a very solid rep for high quality...? I need this to be solid for sure. My wife will carry one of these (1 for backup) in her security work. No excuses allowed ... or I get roasted alive!
Will need to figure out heat sinking for sure. www.onlinemetals.com is the place I plan on searching for something as primary pill / sink ...
^... KD Aluminium Reflector http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S004023 ...try to make sure the head can sink as much as possible, in case of extended run time scenario?
*** I can search for chargers...but if any of you:
(A) Think my choice of batteries above are a good idea...then,
(B) I really need advice on a Well Above Average system to keep them properly charged, and monitored! I can not afford to bull dog this one...... price on this point is besides the point! Safety Must Come Absolutely First...!
I sure thank you guys for the input! This newb really needs extra eyes-on this build... :)
When it comes to using 26650s in a C cell Mag, much depends on the light and batteries you are using. Based on my experience, I can say a couple of things about the fitment of 26650s in a C cell Mag. First of all, you are MUCH better off if you have older Mags (no C in the serial number). Older Mags generally have a larger bore, and can fit a larger variety of different cells. In fact, the only 26650 I have found that can fit in newer Mags is the A123 Systems LiFePO4 (IFR) cell. These cells are both powerful and safe for series use. But capacity is lower than IMR/ICR 26650s. They also require a charger capable of charging IFR cells. So you may or may not want to go the IFR route.
The other issue with using 26650s in C cell Mags is that there are NO protected 26650s that will fit without boring in ANY C cell Mag. They are simply too big in diameter. Even unprotected cells might not fit (or be a tight fit). And due to manufacturing tolerances, fit may be tight (or impossible). As far as specific cells to use, King Kongs (ICR) and Kinokos (IMR) are your best bet for fitment in older C cell Mags. For batteries run in series, the Kinokos are a safer choice.
...Are the LG cells? They are not protected. A thought that came to me, with an 18mm cell, a sleeve would somewhat insulate the batteries from heat.
That being said, the A123 Systems LiFePO4 (IFR) cells seem like a "good capacity" (far above a duracell or energizer primary cell) cell type that would maximize safety, enhance general run time, and allow extended high output levels with relative ease.
As far as chargers go...I will get whatever I need to get. Obviously I need to nail down the Cell Types first... then I will blow my mind trying to wrap it around the 1001 chargers that are out there.
I need to find these pre-made sink/pillars. I am not 100% set on making my own if there are pre-made ones out there that are high quality. My lights do have the C in the number on the side of the light.
It’s pretty easy to increase the bore of a tube by using the technique in This thread from CPF. See the tenth pic. I use it all the time with great success on AA and AAA Maglites. You can DIY the heat sink but you should be able to find one already made. The SST 50 model is very close to the mtg in size but I’d grind off those tabs and use the copper Noctogon.
The most important thing here is take your time and understand as much as you can about this mod before you spend all your money on the wrong stuff.
If you need a spacer, make it out of something suitable, not magnets. Magnets are a quick temporary thing, if you're going to the trouble of gluing them down permanent there's no reason to use a magnet.
You won't be needing a spacer with 3x 18/26650s in a 4C Mag anyway, and given what you want the light to do you don't even need to consider using only 2 cells. Not enough voltage to get good regulation and steady output from the start when the voltage is high and it's able to do the full output current, and the end when the battery voltage is too low to maintain full output. If you can't or don't want to use 3 cells, ditch the MTG2 and use a XML2 instead.
Most 'flat top' 26650s will make contact just fine as-is, the ones that don't only need a very tiny little dab of solder, I mean like 0.030" tall.
If you're keeping the stock Mag switch body thing you'll need to add a brass button or a short spring at the + contact, since it's recessed to fit the typical small button on alkaline cells. Given the limited space you'll want it as short as possible, yet enough to get good contact. A spring at both ends is best whenever possible otherwise if you bump the light one direction or the other it can break contact and change modes on you unexpectedly. A spring at both ends lets the cells move a little front to back without affecting the electrical connection.
I will look more closely at the switch now. At the moment these 4c's are really just gathering dust, so pulling it apart and taking a good hard look is probably a real good idea at this point. The spring mod makes good sense. I need to figure out the switch questions...
You can depress the switch button like you’re turning it on and leaving it, then pinch the rubber cover to pull it out of the hole. Inside the switch button is a hole that allows access to the set screw down inside. It’s an Allen set screw, but the proper size tool may have too thick a shoulder and need a bit of sanding down in order to reach the 1 1/4” or so deep that it needs to go. I think it’s a 5/32” hex on the old style, a T8 star on the newer ones. The T8 is the one that will have to be thinned down to get inside probably. Once you back that set screw off about 3 revolutions the switch will slide out the tail cap end.
You might check with member Bucket about having an aluminum sink made. I think his price is competitive on one, it’s more massive but still aluminum, and he will custom size drill recess etc. Copper is nice if you want to solder the star and run it at 10A but a good chunk of alu is fine at 1-3A. He is very patient and very good and lives here rather than overseas.
@DBCstm, thanks for the heads up! I will check to see if it is Hex, or Star. If it is star... I used to have a set of stars similar to allen wrenches...hmmm, I have not seen them in a while.
@Rufusduck, I will get in touch with Bucket in the next day or two. Being stateside makes it nice. Thank you for the heads up!.