Looks the same to me, at least the part that's visible in the first pic.
Ill pull the reflector and post some pics after work today.
If you have something thin and stiff you could maybe push it out through the emitter wire hole. Make sure to put the pressure at the edge of the driver.
(You could drill one of the emitter wire holes to become a bit large in order to do it. Then use a flat screwdriver or something.)
If there is no glue-stuff on the driver. You could probably just take a thin flat screwdriver, set it between the edge of the driver circuit and the flashlight (on one of those places where there is a bit edge), give the screwdriver a little "bonk" and pry it out.. There is a little risk of damage to the edge of the board, but if done correctly, it will probably go out fine. :) Unless its glued it some way that is...
The "make a pry edge/hole technique" should be a safe solution, but it is a bit more time consuming. Drill, or use a little cutting plate just at the edge of the board, or into the flashlight. Then use a flat screwdriver to pry it out.
Im usually able to pry the driver out.
Whatever technique, good luck! :)
It's hard to tell from the picture, but the bottom of the reflector looks flat. Look how big of an emitter base was used and how far out they have the wire contact pads. The 1216 has a normal 20 mm base with plenty of room for the wires to stick up.
The inside of the reflectors look very different to me. The beam shots also look very different.
We must be talking about two different lights that look the same on the outside then. Mine was a 1226 (link), you're saying 1216. Dunno. 1226 definitely doesn't have a 20mm star...
The 1226 reflector looks like the one in your pics, but I see an identical reflector in the pics of the JS-8054. I see a double step in the base of the reflector, both on the inside and outside. Just like the 1226/1216.
You could be right. Better pics will help. This is where I first saw a model name and have been using it all along (Post 67):
Sorry guys. I’ve been working every day and am too weary in the evening to do any work on my lights. I still haven’t pulled the driver…that’s next…but did a little bit af work on it tonight.
First off. The bottom of the reflector is flat. I know in the pics it looks stepped, but its not. The center part is smooth, and the outer part is rough…but it’s flat. The centering disc is stuck in the LED hole, so don’t mistake it for a step.
I decided to play with the tailcap tonight. I added 3mm copper braid to all the springs, and jumped all the traces to the switch with 20AWG Teflon wire.
Thank god I’m learning to use a DMM, because the light still worked fine after all my mucking about. I took another reading at the emitter, and nothing has changed. I guess that was a lesson in futility. I was sure I might have gotten a little gain.
But then again, I don’t really know how that affects the big picture. The stock emitter wires look pretty thin, and who knows what other kind of wiring is in there. Maybe once everything is upgraded, I’ll see some improvement. If there is a charging unit attached, I’d like to disconnect it. I wonder if that would make a difference.
That’s all for tonight. I promise the next step will give us all a look at that pesky driver. Keep your comments and observations coming, together we’ll get this light built into something, even if its just getting a little more amps out of that driver.
On a side note. I popped into the pub after work and a guy I talk to gave me ten pounds of brand new copper plates. A big stack of shiny 12”x12” sheets of copper plate.
Great find on the copper plates. You must be talking to the right kind of people! 
Ultrafire sure has some good stuff. And this JS-8054 is one of them.
Nice score!
Good job Ouchy! Keep at it!
-Garry
Congrats on the copper score. That's a big one.
Great work on the tail board. If you look at the right side of the last picture in post 44, there is a potential bottleneck. All the power from the 4 cells has a nice clear path to the switch, but after the switch it has to go through the one thin trace. It may not cause much restriction because it is so short, but the fix is easy.
You can take a piece of copper and drill a hole for the mounting screw to go through. Then solder the copper piece directly to the leg on the switch.
Did you check for anno on the 4 body mounting points for the tail board? If there is any, you could sand or file it off for more contact. I like to use one of those small stones that are normally used for dremels and such. I just hold it by hand and sand/grind the anno off. Goes pretty fast. May be overkill, but figure it would take me more time to test to see if it is an issue.
Those are great mods and suggestions for modding the switch! I have a light with a similar tail board that I will now examine more closely. I’m guessing it will benefit from similar changes. 8)
[quote=ImA4Wheelr]
You can take a piece of copper and drill a hole for the mounting screw to go through. Then solder the copper piece directly to the leg on the switch.quote]
Good idea. I was thinking I should have done something there. Pretty easy since it just leads to ground. I should do the copper thing since I have enough of it, but I’ve spent enough time on the tail. I just don’t feel like dragging out the dremel and snips. I think I’ll just jump it with two pieces of 14 AWG wire. I’ll inspect the anodization around all the contact points as I progress.
I finally got a day off work and made a bit of progress in the JS-8054 breakdown.
First off, I addressed the question of a possible current bottleneck by adding two pieces of 14AWG wire. There was no increase in emitter readings.
I’m through with the tail end. It’s time to get that driver out. I placed a hex key into the emitter wire hole and gave it a tap. It popped right out.
As you can see, there are two wires for the emitter, and three wires for the charging port that is not mentioned, nor does the light come with any sort of charging cable. This will be disconnected. I doubt it will have any effect on the driver.
Here’s the kicker! There is an open hole directly beneath the emitter. Who designed this pill? At least it was useful as I used another fat hex key to punch out the PCB from the underside.
Well, here’s the driver. Can anything be improved?
That’s it for now. I’ll wait for feedback. I’m not knowledgable enough in circuitry to go further without guidance.
I may be starting a new thread for the driver to catch the attention of modders that have not ventured into this thread.
Driver Thread Here.
Are those AMC7135s? Looks like there’s room for a few more. 
I suspect the central hole is for a screw, they tend to use a central screw to hold down 3 emitter reflectors, probably never changed the design when they made it a thrower.
Only 7 7135's. You would think they would have put atleast 10 for 3.5/3.8 amps.
interesting if you can add 9x7135
There’s room for 18 x 7235 chips, and then you can stack more.