First, you would need to swap in a new driver that was already setup with NarsilM. That’s pretty easy. The potential hard parts with the MF01 is if it’s not an early unit, it will probably be glued shut and very difficult to open. Secondly, the emitters will probably be set up at the wrong voltage requiring you to cut traces on the led board (mcpcb) and add jumper wires.
I would start by seeing if you can get the front bezel off your light.
You don’t list your location, but if your in Europe you might be able to ship it to Lexel for a conversion. Outside of Europe the shipping costs go way up.
BTW, do you know about the new MF01S It would be way cheaper to sell your current one and buy the new one since it already comes with many improvements. No NarsilM, but Anduril is based from it with nice ramping and user adjustable features.
Hi. I am new here and dont understand much about these custom drivers.
Probably this is right place to get new driver for my Convoy C8+. I need driver capable of moon mode, some regulated modes and turbo. Was thinking about BLF A6 driver, but there are only two mode groups which doesnt suit me much. I need something like this - moon, 1x7135, 8x7138, turbo. Or 1x7135, 8x7135, turbo. All without memory. Can it be done an how does it will cost to ship to EU? Need it to be plug and play, so I can solder only two wires. Thanks.
The little leg on the MCU that controls the switch has a small positive “potential” on it. This needs to touch ground to complete the circuit and signal the MCU. You can run the positive wire from this leg or pad to the switch and then the return wire can go to any ground point you want. It can be on the driver or the flashlight body. There are many negative points on the driver, maybe even a dedicated pad for it.
PS, this is an old thread. New questions should go to the new Batch 7 thread.
Are you talking about the switch led or the main led?
The main led negative has to go to a specific input point on the driver. This way the driver can control the brightness.
Here is a simple FET diagram. You can see that the FET controls the contact from led to ground.
If you are asking about the switch led, that can be attached to any ground point on driver or body. A lot of times it shares a ground wire with the switch negative. I’m refering to seperate switch boards that have leds built in like below.
The switch led has an output leg on the MCU that will go through a resistor either on the driver or the switch pcb then to the tiny led then to ground. At least on Lexels drivers. There are many ways switch leds can be wired up depending on the driver design and some even bypass the driver completely.
Hi, I know there is a new thread in regard to these drivers but I’m having problems with a recently installed driver from this batch. It’ a standard 17mm running Anduril flashed by Lexel.
The problem is it’s not responding to the button presses correctly. It will not switch on with a single click unless it was switched off when in the top half of the brightness range but always starts with a click and hold but jumps straight to half brightness. When set in step mood it will step down to low and then switches off. Turbo works as it should. Programming for the floor and ceiling levels doesn’t work. Soft lockout does.
When I soldered on the + terminal on the driver I had a bridge across to the center pin on one of the chips but I seen and removed that before start up, I’ve checked with my DMM and even though some pins look close there not touching.
Ant idea’s what I should do?
I believe its a 3 channel, order says direct drive and it has one chip on the front and 6 on the back.
Brightness range it the same if raping or stepping, all of the functions from off seem to work except for the candle.
Setting of the floor, ceiling levels and number of steps doesn’t seem to work…
Low brightness channel not working could explain it, how would I test it?
The floor and ceiling limits are unique for both smooth or stepped ramping. You just go into the one you want to adjust and follow the steps(see below). Stepped has the 3rd option which is number of steps.
The single 7135 chip allows for 350 milliamp which for most lights is moonlight up to at least 100 lumen. You can tell if that channel is working by the low brightness levels. If you ramp down from a really bright level and the output suddenly turns off around 100-200 lumen then your channel 1 is not working.
If the ramp floor is set really high then the light will ramp down and stop, but stay turned on.
You adjust the ramp limits by starting with the light On, do 4 fast clicks. I think you see a flutter for the first option which is the floor. You can click once which sets it at the dimmest level.
The next flutter is the ramp ceiling. You can do 1 click which is the brightest setting. Default is sometimes 30 clicks.
If your in stepped mode you get the 3rd glitter and you click the number of steps you want. Default is usually 7.
I would recommend staying in smooth ramping for testing purposes.
I’m going to assume you don’t have any sophisticated electronics gear, but maybe a soldering iron. Firstly, I would take some close up pictures of both sides of the driver and post them here so we can look for problems. It’s possible a tiny solder ball, or similar, has come loose in shipping and shorted the channel one circuit making it not work. Let’s start with that.
Sorry for the delay in getting back but I swapped drivers and had the same problem
Swapped out the led with a Jaxman triple and problem solved
It was a triple on a 20mm Noctigon board that I ground down a mm or so, could this caused it to fault?
How do I test and repair?