Reading this got me all excited to order a minus green filter to try on my sickly green Wurkkos TS21. I think the bezel is glued on. I sacrificed a couple of old mouse pads, and it’s not going anywhere.
@manithree … Try carefully heating the bezel to loosen the glue. If you have a heat gun use it, I have found they usually work well.
Idk, the beam looks defused but it is still looks greenish. this is a white wall picture, in real world use, it wont be as annoying ( for those that consider it annoying in a first place). I have few lights with that tint, not a problem when you actually use it in real world. thou i agree not the most pleasant tint to look at.
Beamshots of Zircon treatment (bought from Boaz - thank you) of one of the most severe and well known green tint: SST20 4000k in Sofirn IF25a.
The transmission loss was roughly 17% as measured by Texas Ace lumen tube. This is consistent with known figure for loss. Without treatment that light was not “useable” with that green tint so this loss doesn’t matter, for me anyway.
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I must’ve got lucky with my IF25a it’s got the least green 4000k SST20s I’ve seen. Ts21 is a different story tho
i gave mine a shot after reading this and damn that MFer is on there lol. I didn’t go the heat gun route, I just maxed the thermal limit and hit turbo lol. Still no luck. Probably some rubbing alcohol and vise would do it but I gave up.
I can’t take off bezel of my Haikelite HK05 either and what I did is put the Zircon filter externally, outside the lens, and apply a tiny drop of Elmer’s glue at the border of Zircon and bezel. The Elmer’s glue holds up well and does not melt/deform etc. in this light.
Another method that Boaz recommends for external fitment of the Zircon filter is cut filter for perfect fit, EXCEPT for a couple places, cut the filter so it protrudes larger. So that your filter looks like a round pot with two protruding handles for example. Then trim the 2 “handles” slowly until the filter snaps into the crevice between the lens and the bezel. (This crevice is created by the o ring.)
I imagine you could create more than 2 “handles” for extra safety. @Boaz pls correct me as needed.
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See that’s what I thought you were supposed to do anyways. I had heard of putting it under the lens until now.
Ya that’s how I put DC fix on. Just leave a little extra. You don’t usually have to try it just happens naturally lol
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I must have won the tint lottery with my DT8 SST-20 4000k light. I’ve never noticed a green tint, so I just checked it with my Opple. Duv of 0.0003, so just a hair above the BBL. I notice more of a green tint with my LH351D lights from Sofirn.
My Sofirn IF25a I thought it wasn’t that bad either but when compared to some much better tints it showed how green it really was . It didn’t take much to make it a much much better looking tint and it didn’t end up looking rosy at all either.
Mine came out so nice that when I saw Cannga complain about his ugly green tint on this Sofirn IF25a I was determined to send him some filters for free … He wouldn’t give me an address and instead placed a small order . I was very anxious to see what he thought of the Sofirn/ sst-20 with a filter .
Mine came out great .
I don’t know what they’re using for glue but it seems to take nearly as much heat as bona fide loctite to soften up. Some of them use more of a superglue type adhesive - acetone or denatured alcohol (or whatever you guys call that up there) will usually do that just fine as long as it can actually travel up the threads to where the glue is. For thread lockers, don’t bother with any solvents, just get the temp up, apply steady holding pressure, and they’ll break free. Anodizing starts to change color usually around 350°F (176°C)…usually higher than that but that’s your warning zone, and that’s pretty dang hot. Theoretically most loctite compounds need upwards of 400°F but they soften before that point. Turbo won’t getcha there with many compounds…does seem to help on the cyanoacrylate or “clear glue” types when those are applied minimally on smaller diameter bezels.
Interesting discussion. I want to add some of my experience. I have a Fenix E01 v2.0. It has a SST20 6500K emitter, runs on a AAA battery and generates 100 lumens max. The tint was really ugly. I tried to use filters to correct it but it rubs a lot of light out of the output.
When you run on a single AAA and has only 100 lumens on max, I would argue that every lumen counts. In the end I had to swap 3 Nichia 519A emitters to find one with good tint. Even the SW575 that Simon sells on AliExpress has quite a bit of tint variations on the same reel. Of the 3 I tried, 2 were distinctively green and one was neutral to rosy.
I don’t want to apply any filtering to the light and had to go through the hassel of handing picking an emitter but in the end it was worth it.
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That’s a pretty challenging situation to get a nice looking beam at such a low current even with most of our nicest emitters. Glad you found one that worked for you! I’ve been considering the same approach for a little Ultratac model that has a bland XPG2 in it.
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Another Sofirn light that I had abandoned until Zircon minus green from Boaz threw a lifesaver is the headlamp D25L with LH351D LED.
Really strange situation. The same LED in Sofirn SP36 BLF looks ok but in the Sofirn headlamp it’s an unbearable monster. Minus green VERY highly recommended for any suffering D25L owners. Easy to install underneath lens - just take off the 4 screws in front.
@Boaz the cost is so small I felt guilty to get it free from you 
. BTW is your Zircon and d-c-fix thread in your profile? Easier for potential users to find that way. I assume you already know but if not click on the big letter C to the left of my forum name to see what I’m referring to.
As a teenager in the sixties, I remember sitting in the ideal acoustic position of my bedroom listening to strategically placed speakers on the best stereo system I could afford while cursing every pop, skip, or hiss on my vinyl records.
I also had to keep the bedroom windows closed even if it was too hot when my parents had an outside gathering because my older relatives were too loud as they laughed, sang and danced accompanied by a distorted radio blasting old Polka songs on one of the local Polish AM radio stations.
I sometimes wondered which of us was actually enjoying the music more.
Now it’s flashlights instead of music and I notice the same phenomenon where those (that I am acquainted with) who use their lights more than me (even for work) probably also enjoy them more because they are not particularly concerned with CCT, DUV, or CRI (even after I explain and demonstrate the differences to them).
I guess they are the lucky ones.
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I would like to think I/us hobbyists are the ones who stop and smell the rose. Maybe more like “inhale” though.
Interesting you brought up pop, skip, and hiss. I am still complaining, TODAY 
. I’m fairly hardcore, or nutty, with audio x 30 years and routinely spin LP’s on a Linn Sondek with Koetsu cartridge.
Loctite ain’t nothing. I always felt like it didn’t do anything. looked up the breakaway torque numbers for them all awhile back. They’re sooo low! Blue loctite takes like 8ftlbs and the strongest red is like 20ftlbs! Like what’s even the point? Thats nothing. When you can get a socket around the thing I guess. Different when it’s round and there’s glass.
If I really wanted to force it open idk, theres gotta be a solvent. Acetone doesn’t work? Hmm. Goo-Gone is actually some powerful stuff. Idk. Rusted on bolts are more my wheelhouse
Tint bins are weird eh. You really never known what you’re gonna get. Ive got a sp36 pro with 6500k sst40s that are almost a perfect cool white. No green at all. One of the best looking tints I have. Then I have ones that are just pure green. Same thing with the lh351d. Got one good one and a whole lot of green.
That’s a nice thing about the 519a, so easy to dedome. Don’t like the tint, dome comes right off. And if you still don’t like it… well too bad you can’t dedome it twice. Sucks to be you. But at least it’s different lol
That was always the issue with ZebraLights. Luckily for me the 2 I bought years ago were pretty good for XM-L2 LEDs, but many others complained about the green tint they got.
It’s an easy one to fix .
4 screws and 10 minutes later these lights get much better