A couple questions about lights and p60 drop ins

WOW. thats the stuff i was hoping to find thanks alot.

It's a gift.....

some got it .. some don't

I don't. Frown

That's because you keep gifting it away :P

LOL

lpw min = uh, lumens per watt, minimum? So blue are the most efficient/longest running (in terms of battery life)?

Here's a noob with a (probably) already asked/answered question:

How many amps do you suppose my stock L2P or L2 is pulling with the 3-mode Ultra Fire XM-L from Manafont with a Solarforce 2400 mAh 18650? Are they seriously at or near 900 lumens? I was thinking they were closer to a real world 400 to 600 range.

veryusefullistboazFoy

[Pedantic stuff alert]

Apologies for the attack of pedantry about to emerge.

The yellow stuff is the phosphor which is actually coated on the die which emits blue light. The phosphor turns the blue light into a range of frequencies leading to us seeing white light.

The junction is the bit that emits the blue light. Since the phosphor coating is about ten nanometres from the die, this is an ultra-pedantic point. In practice what you see is the yellow bit which is the bit which gets hot.

But that's enough pedantry for one day.

[/Pedantic stuff alert]

Actually, I reckon this is an excellent summary.

Thank you.

Foy

Now that I didn't know!

So that mean that blue LEDs are cooler at a given current? (or would be if they were availlable at the same spec as white ones)

As far as I'm aware, all white LEDs are phosphor coated blue LEDs - there are inevitably some losses in the wavelength changes, though what I meant (and said rather badly - in fact wrongly) was that the yellow-coated bit is the bit that gets hot. Most of the heat will be from the LED, not the phosphor. Craig over at FNF has a spectroscope and has done measurements on all sorts of LEDs.

http://flashlightnews.net/forum/index.php?topic=798

The spectrum of just about every white LED will show more blue than would be optimal. Sixty545 here has done interesting colour measurements on current LEDs.

The parent blue LEDs (those under the phosphor of white LEDs) will be brighter, but not far off monochromatic and blue light is not a good match for human eyes. Blue light makes everyone around you look ill. AFAIK nobody sells non-phosphor high power LEDs in their native blue. But it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong....

Ahh thanks for the info Don :)

I will borrow this topic, as I don't want to start another one with same title than 1000 others. And it's still on-topic, as I have a couple of questions about lights and P60 drop-ins.

Unlike the starter of this topic, I'm in a search for very bright floodlight with good runtime. I have Solarforce L2X extended tube coming in and I want to get a dropin that would give me huge wall of light and keep it going for couple of hours on 2X18650. I really only need one level, but 3-level is fine also. What are my options? I see that most XM-L or P7 dropins are 4.2v max, so no-go there. Any high voltage XM-L, SST-50 or P7 out there? I'm willing to pay decent amount for the dropin, but not Malkoff prices. Let's say up to 50$ would be ok.

Custom driver:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7947

With self improved heatsinking if the host of choice requires it (all p60 would) and you should be fine:

Host perhaps:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11103

Change driver only if the stock sux.

KD have 1 mode XM-L U2 drop ins http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11249

Thanks, just what I needed.