A decent single led with multiple batteries?

The Y3 can take 18650’s with an adapter tube. It takes extensions too, I forget what the max voltage is. I’d say 3s or 4s is the most you should attempt (but not before you try and figure out some more official limit).

Perfect!! I was just going to ask about extensions and adapter tubes. Thanks!

I will probably buy it just to try it since the price isn’t bad. Do you know who carries the tube extensions?

If you want 2x18650 with those specs: single emitter, 1,000 lumens, good thrower and long running, I’d get the LustFire K08 instead, a knockoff of the Convoy L2 I think it was? I got one for about $20 on sale, and I was completely surprised by the size, quality, and output of it. It is the first single emitter light thrower I have that I’m happy enough with that I really think I’m going to leave alone, and I thought I was buying it to put an MTG2 in. Somehow I lucked out though, mine is in the 3A driven range, while others are reporting a bit over 1A. The tint is nice for a CW, and it throws the farthest I’ve seen a budget light throw. It takes 18650 and 26650 just like the Y3.

The Yetzl Y3 is OK but I am underwhelmed by it in quality (loose lens, missing o-ring, knurling feel is good, but Lustefire somehow feels a lot better in the hand, Y3 feels cheaper and thinner). In output since its significantly less bright than the Lustfire, focus of the center spot is off and it doesnt throw as far. The loose lens, chipped adonizing, greenish NW turn me off of the Yetzl Y3 I have.

Another light in similar form I also really prefer over Y3 is my 2.8A Convoy L4 with $5 extender for 2x18650. I cant really compare brightness since mine is 7C and obviously going to be significantly less, but the quality is also great, feels good in the hand (not as good as Lustfire though), price is the same as Y3, and somehow looks as bright as the Y3 anyways (Y3 is probably not well driven). It does not take 26650, but no problem there with what looks to be your preference.

I have massively overpowering multi emitter lights, and the Lustfire and Convoy L4 still get rotated in and taken out on night walks, whereas my Yetzl I never used more than twice on a walk…its just kind of disappointing.

Yezl Y3 could probably use a resistor mod. I think the usual suspects carry it. There have been two ‘group buy’ type things recently from different vendors, search and you’ll find them.

I haven’t really played around with the Y3 much. There are definitely some quality control issues though.

I don’t think that the LustFire K08 is still available? I see it on Amazon for nearly $100, I don’t count that as ‘available’ for a <$50 light.

Small Sun ZY-T08 http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=80&product_id=158
Review: Small Sun ZY-T08 2x18650 XM-L T6 from Fasttech
Small Sun ZY-T08
also see TK35 and clones
New-117 (TK35 clone) mod. Turn a TK35 into a TK35UE (Updated with Beamshots 3-jan-2015)
Review: UniqueFire UF-F10 (Fenix TK35 clone)

Ah, you have to look around the threads here, there are about 3 different named models, knockoffs of the Convoy L2, I forget the thread that had it but some are still around. It is more expensive, but around $45-50 when I looked, Yetzl is about $30+10 so $40 I think, and its much inferior in quality, I really wanted to like it, but was disappointed.

Where is the resistor mod thread though? Mine needs it, then maybe I’ll have a Yetzl green-yellow pea soup lazer :wink: Its still noisy and not even water resistant though, I can’t believe they didn’t even fit the lens to the light before selling it…

Hmmmmm…… yeah I like the look of the Lustfire but Amazon was the first seller I saw as well (and in the $100 range). A couple other places like Alibaba and Tmart had better prices but said discontinued.

OK I found one, $45, different name, another clone of the Convoy L2, just like the Lustfire K08:


*EDIT OK now that ^ is out of stock?!? I’m sorry it is looking like all the clones are sold out, the Banggood Dipper clone is also sold out, so is the Wallbuys clone. Looks like there is a run on the Convoy L2 clones around…

Similar Lustfire at $31, smaller reflector head: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-LusteFire-D01-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-1000Lm-Flashlight-Torch/827438284.html I don’t have this light (or clone) though. Look at this thread for D01 owners and deals: Affordable 2 x 26650 + 2 x 18650 mod host $13.60 LustFire D01

If you like the look of the Convoy L4 its also much better quality control than the Yetzl Y3 or the Smallsun ZY-T08 ( have 2 of those too). Most Convoys have good quality standards. But, if you get a Smallsun ZY-T08 modified increased output and user interface by Richard of Mountain Electronics, its going to blow all these lights away… :slight_smile:

http://www.banggood.com/Convoy-L5-CREE-XM-L2-T6-4C-2-Group-3-or-5-Mode-1000LM-LED-Flashlight-p-916742.html You also can get different tints if you look around BanguGood. Quality is really great too! Easy to mod.

Can you use extension tubes on the convoy l5 as well?

Personally I’m pretty sure I’d rather have a Supfire M6 than a Smallsun ZY-T08. RMM mods both.

B42 I think you got the short end of the stick with your Y3. As far as resistor modding, I’m sure I’ve posted about it in at least one or two places. Probably somewhere in this big thread: YEZL Y3 CNQUALITYGOODS Group buy. 3 Versions. See post 274 for delivery details.

… rather than attempting to find where I’ve explained it before, we’ll just go through it again:

  1. Find the sense resistors. The Y3 uses two resistors in parallel, a normal setup. In this case it’s R180 and R150. The R is a decimal point, those resistors are 0.18 ohm and 0.15 ohm respectively.
  2. Determine the total (net) sense resistance. Use an online parallel resistor calc to see what the total is. PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR We can easily see that the total is about 0.08 ohms.
  3. Measure the output current (current to the LED). This should be around 3 amps with the stock driver and 2s or more.
  4. Determine the sense voltage: Punch current and resistance into an online ohms law calculator or just multiply the net resistance and the measured current together… 3 * 0.08 = 0.24v
    (Or skip those steps because we already know the sense voltage is in the 0.24v to 0.26v range due to it being a QX9920 buck controller. )
  5. Determine the new net resistance we need: Now we know sense voltage and we know your desired current (say 4.0 A), we clear our ohms law calculator and punch in the desired current along with the sense voltage… or we just divide the sense voltage by the desired current. I’m going to use 0.25v here because that’s about right: 0.25 / 4.0 = 0.0625 ohms
  6. Go back to your parallel resistor calculator and see what you need to put in parallel to achieve that resistance.
  7. Purchase and install whatever resistors you need.

Tks wight. I think I lost interest in modding it after my Y3 showed up bedraggled and limping, then I had better lights arrive and I put it aside. Maybe I’ll try it soon with this simple info. I’ll need to buy a lens that actually fits before attempting to mod so I can actually use it in the prevalent rain though, the one they shipped it with is slightly smaller diameter and loose. Then I have to change out the emitter and driver for an MTG2 and get rid of the pea soup color…

Yes I’d rather have a M6 modded, I was just indicating a Smallsun ZY-T08 someone brought up doesnt have to be a bad selection if modded, M6 is just much further off the single emitter mark…

You’re welcome. I’ll have to take a look at what I have at some point, I don’t think I had lens fitment issues.

Further off the single emitter mark, but closer to the 3-4 cells mark. :wink:

Well then if we are going there, I’ll go for a modded J12, J18, or J20 and 7,000 lumens instead! :slight_smile:

As for the lens issue, yes, its so bad with so much motion it clinks while using it constantly. I call it my noisy pea soup light. CW lights make it look green and warm, the X6’s 3C NW beam color looks to be a nice 4C tint next to the Y3 (which looks white with green shift vs it), while the X6 NW is slightly white greenish vs my real 4C tint C8.

I have (2) Y3’s modded with the MT-G2. I’m running RMM’s 17mm QLite Zener Mod on one for 6.2amps measured at the tail cap, made my own adapter 17mm to 23mm, put the MCPCB on 2mm copper ,with a 120 second Turbo and man it gets HOT! HOT!!! But do able!! Now the other is built the same way “EXCEPT” with RMM’s 22MMFETDD/ZENERMOD, it needs a 60 second Turbo or even 30 second Turbo, whoa this thing is BLAZING SCARY HOT at 120 seconds!!! Just saying……

@KawiBoy1428 - how was your lens fitment? how was your stock tint & alignment?

The SunZ seems kind of underpowered and a bit homely.

Both were loose at first, I used .032” solder and made a ring out of it and put it between the bezel ring and glass, and slowly tightened and loosen till flat, worked out well. Then I found some 2mm black oring’s to replace the GITD ones. I have used in the past and it’s still on my SRK the wax paper card board that’s on the bottom of Hostess Sno Ball’s, I traced the O.D. and cut it out, screwed the bezel on and cut the I.D. out using a razor knife and the inside of the ring as a guide. Still there and seals well too? Hard to find the SRK o-ring’s at 2.5mm cause 3mm wouldn’t let the bezel ring screw down?

Stock tint was greenish, alignment meh big plastic piece that covered the MCPCB board and tried to center the over sized emitter hole, so not that well, I’m mean you could knock it around a bit, but it wasn’t repeatable if you kept loosening the head?