A decent single led with multiple batteries?

Well then if we are going there, I’ll go for a modded J12, J18, or J20 and 7,000 lumens instead! :slight_smile:

As for the lens issue, yes, its so bad with so much motion it clinks while using it constantly. I call it my noisy pea soup light. CW lights make it look green and warm, the X6’s 3C NW beam color looks to be a nice 4C tint next to the Y3 (which looks white with green shift vs it), while the X6 NW is slightly white greenish vs my real 4C tint C8.

I have (2) Y3’s modded with the MT-G2. I’m running RMM’s 17mm QLite Zener Mod on one for 6.2amps measured at the tail cap, made my own adapter 17mm to 23mm, put the MCPCB on 2mm copper ,with a 120 second Turbo and man it gets HOT! HOT!!! But do able!! Now the other is built the same way “EXCEPT” with RMM’s 22MMFETDD/ZENERMOD, it needs a 60 second Turbo or even 30 second Turbo, whoa this thing is BLAZING SCARY HOT at 120 seconds!!! Just saying……

@KawiBoy1428 - how was your lens fitment? how was your stock tint & alignment?

The SunZ seems kind of underpowered and a bit homely.

Both were loose at first, I used .032” solder and made a ring out of it and put it between the bezel ring and glass, and slowly tightened and loosen till flat, worked out well. Then I found some 2mm black oring’s to replace the GITD ones. I have used in the past and it’s still on my SRK the wax paper card board that’s on the bottom of Hostess Sno Ball’s, I traced the O.D. and cut it out, screwed the bezel on and cut the I.D. out using a razor knife and the inside of the ring as a guide. Still there and seals well too? Hard to find the SRK o-ring’s at 2.5mm cause 3mm wouldn’t let the bezel ring screw down?

Stock tint was greenish, alignment meh big plastic piece that covered the MCPCB board and tried to center the over sized emitter hole, so not that well, I’m mean you could knock it around a bit, but it wasn’t repeatable if you kept loosening the head?

I have been looking for 3x18650 3S also because I think that to drive a MT-G2 well one needs the extra voltage. As such I just learned that the Courui D01 is 3P and so was dropped from my list but as it is 3P runtime should be quite good.

as a starting point



For the money Convoy’s are hard to beat! Great quality!!! And YES Mr.Woodfiend you can use the extension!

IIRC dealsmachine is being tricky by not having free shipping.

Yeah I don’t prefer them either, just agreeing that if you liked them, Richard could mod them to be nice output.

Supbeam/Acebeam K50 or Olight SR51/SR52.

How about a Thrunite TN32, will run forever on it’s lowest setting.

The only torch of this config I own is the Olight SR52. And I can say it’s very very nice. Can’t really say anything negative about it at all. Of course being a multi 18650 light, it is somewhat chunky.

I will check out TN32. I had thought about getting the TN36 at some point…… After looking at the TN32 and Olight SR 52 on Amazon I also stumbled across the Olight Olight-M3X-XML2 which looks nice too. What have been peoples experiences with those? Runtime looks decent in the midrange setting.

Well what do you want to actually use the light for? The high powered TNs are good if you just want to turn it on and see something in the distance and then turn it off, not much else. I have a Vin modded TN31, it is an awesome thrower but…its kinda useless unless I’m in a very flat area in the dark wanting to know what those reflective eyes in the distance are as I’m hiking, and its very heavy for that purpose. I think the Lustfire K08 is about the limit of what I’d want to use to walk around with and even thats too bright in the center spot. The TN31 I have really hurts the eyes to use for walking by the end of the trip, even on low. The problem with those really good throwers is the center spot is very bright compared to the outer regions, so your eyes trying to see in the dark dilate too much for use of the center spot, which you tend to keep using to focus on things to see them. Then your eyes react and close down a bit, you take the center spot off what you are looking at and you cant see as well, and you focus the center spot on what you want to see again just as your eyes are trying to dilate and see again…and over and over, causing eyestrain.

Thrunite TN31, TN32 or the Thrunite Catapult V5. The first two are 3 18650 batteries side by side and the last has two 18650 batteries stacked. The Fenix TK61 is another candidate in the single LED light multiple battery category. Most multi battery single LED lights are throwers rather than having a flood beam so if you want more of a flood beam light look at a Mountain Electronics (RMM) modified Supfire M6 with the 7 level output modification. Good long run time at the mid range output levels and very bright at maximum. A four 18650 battery stubby light but with three LEDs. No real disadvantage to multiple LEDs unless you want a light with maximum throw but such lights tend to have very large and deep reflectors for their single LED, adding to size and weight.

Umm different lights, they can all illuminate the way, but they are designed for different things.

The TN36 is a flooder, it’ll light up a lot, a real wide area and very well. But it isn’t going light stuff up far away.

The TN32 and SR52 are I suspect very similar. They are quite bulky lights, but have largish reflectors and single LEDs. This means they are more throw biased, they’ll have a more sharply defined hotspot and throw a beam further than something like the TN36. But won’t light up such a wide area. There will also be a definite difference between hotspot and spill beam. This means the hotspot can appear blinding when used at closer ranges and can be enough to obscurer your night vision of seeing the spill beam.

To use a torch like this for walking you need to aim the torch down range so as not to cause too much glare from the hotspot on the ground in front of you.

I personally like my SR52, but it is a very different kind of light to the TN36.

With regards to the Olight M3X. I think by the looks of it, it uses the same reflector, emitter. This means it’s beam will look very similar.

The difference is in power. 2x18650 means it’ll be lighter and less chunky, although not actually massively smaller in width if the head is the same size and it’s obviously longer.

Runtime is very different too. The SR52 last about 3 times longer on high. But remember many high output lights these days don’t use flat regulation on their highest setting. They often direct drive the led to get the highest lumens from it. But output will drop as the battery depletes and can no longer offer up the goods.

Actually, this is a little misleading. I suspect the SR52 uses a linear type driver, so requires the battery voltage to be similar to the led voltage in order to get the most light from it.

As the SR52 is 3 batteries in parallel, it probably direct drives the LED @ 4.2v (3.6v nominal). On a single cell light you wouldn’t get much runtime like this, but with 3 batteries it massively extends this performance.

The downside is, you only get regulation while the batteries have suitable voltage, once this drops, output will gradually drop off too.

Here is the SR52, with good ICR batteries it manages stable output for about 15 mins, then starts to dip. IMR/INR batteries should offer higher output and longer regulation.

That said, output remains high for quite a long time, just not flat regulation and it takes almost 4hrs to drop to 50%.

This is good if you need lots of light for a long period of time. And remember the lower modes are regulated. as can be seen here below. This chart also shows the M3X on lower mode.

The thing to note here is, the SR52 can pump out a constant 600 lumens for slightly longer than the M3X manages to pump out only 300 constant lumens.

With regards to the M3X is runs on 2x18650 in series, higher voltage than the LED needs, so this is a buck driver. The big difference here is the high output mode. The buck driver due to 8.4v from the batteries is able to sustain higher voltage for far longer. This means the M3X has a regulated max output, where the SR52 doesn’t.

But it comes at a much reduced runtime. The SR52 takes almost 4 hrs to drop to 50% output on max (which is still 600 lumens).

But the M3X only makes is nearer to 1 hr. But note it is flatter regulation.

It’s kind of confusing. But does make them different.

If I was camping and was going to be away for a few days, the SR52 would be my choice. 600 lumens is plenty and has a massive runtime.

If it’s just for walking the dog for half hour, 45 mins at a time from home. Then the M3X will muster up more stable output at higher lumen levels than the SR52.

Courui D01 seems to fit your description… It throws quite far :stuck_out_tongue: and great runtime.