Yes, that’s a current limiting resistor.
You’re not even adding all the costs…
- wires
- solder wire, flux, solder paste, thermal paste, lube, isopropyl alcohol, …
- electricity
- tool wear
- risk of breaking something (and having to buy a replacement)
Would I have to do that if I’m using a stock driver? Just using the stock 2.1amp driver.
can u sell the colored versions to gearbest? i see only the regular jaxmans there not the color, thanks!
Joson has problems to connect to BLF, so if you need to ask him something, have contact through Gearbest message service 
That’s what I did (on Ali) before ordering.
This guy is awesome and gives always a pleasant answer 
Yes, I ordered yesterday a 4000K Nichia 219C without strobe-sos.
Waiting… waiting… Xmas will not help shipping 
LOL
No glue, no glue!
Postman gave me the parcel today : E2L Light Gray 219C-4000K without strobe/SOS
Great product, great beam, just what i wanted :+1: .
But when I tried to mesure stepdown/runtime in High mode, 10mn after ON : the light began flash/strobe like for “low battery” indicator, but battery was full, the flashlight was very hot… is it a thermal protection ?
Is it normal not to be able using the E2L on Hight more than 10mn ?
A tube style 18650 flashlight like the S2+ can sustain about 600-800 lumen (or 2000mA) without functionally damage, I even runtime-tested a S2+ at 3A/800lumen and it got 90 degreesC eventually but did not fail, but it would burn your hand. A E2L has some slight finning near the led so it should be able to handle a tiny bit more output but still the limit is probably still close to that of the S2+. The E2L if I’m right comes with a 6x7135 driver, so 2100mA, that should by just be sustainable, but I can imagine that Jaxman has build in a thermal stepdown that kicks in at lower temperature than 90 degC to prevent burning your hands.
I have an XP-G2 E2L that runs just fine for over 10 min. You might need to check out your battery. Light should run for 90ish min on high with a 3500mAh NCR18650GA. It will get very hot running sustained for that long though. Nichia 219’s do get hotter than the XP-G2.
:person_facepalming: I wrote “full” battery, but in reality it’s a new one (never used, never charged… still waiting my charger) I expectd new battery were full… :innocent: (n00b error)
For the same Amperage or for the same amount of lumens ?
I think it’s because the Nichia has a lower VF than Cree, so it draws more amps causing the LED to get a bit hotter. It seems if you want a higher CRI like the Nichia offerings, you’ll have to give up some lumens and get a little more heat.
Have anybody temp measures for Jaxman E2L Nichia?
Ok, I thought it was just a lower lumen output for the same power, but indeed the “non-lumens” must end somewhere… in heat !
That’s right, it lacks a deep review like this one for the E2: Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)
I read some Convoy have this option (and some Jaxman had too) :
Group 1: 5-Mode (high—mid—low—fast strobe—SOS strobe)
Group 2: 3-Mode (high—mid—low)
users can switch Group 1 into Group 2 in low mode.vice versa.
Do the E2L have the same option ? (low mode doesn’t blink once like on tne Convoy)
That I’m unsure as I run protected cells and the circuit cuts out before lvp does on the light.
The lower the kelvin LED, the lesser the lumens. To make a NW and WW led like the Nichia, requires darker or additional phosphor. Because of this thicker blanket/darker phosphor covering the blue LED it lowers the lumens vs a CW LED with less/lighter colored phosphor.
You mean “blink” for low voltage protection ?
No, on the Convoy with 3-5 driver, what I understand is that at startup in Low mode, after a few seconds, light blinks once (and at this moment you can begin group switch procedure) Maybe I’m wrong…
I don’t know what the E2L’s LVP protection warning pattern is. My batteries have a protection circuit on board and shuts off power before the light’s built in warning has a chance to activate.