I can’t really comment on prolonged 10440 use in the Ti3. My i3s is handling the 10440 very well, have been using it for longer than a year now. The 10440s obviously drains very quickly on high, but I’m willing to take the trade-off for maximum output. To counter this, carry a spare battery, change to a lower mode if needed, and just make sure to frequently have the battery charged.
Unfortunately not 1 resource that will satisfy all your questions, but, I’d recommend just doing a search on BLF for ‘best dedome’. You’ll find some good posts… Theres basically 2 common options: Using chemicals like fuel, which takes longer, or using heat, which is much quicker but possibly more risky in damaging the LED - what they call a ‘hot dedome’.
Correct. You normally loose around 10-20% of the light output (lumens) but you gain around 50-100% in light intensity, thus, the kcd figure will be 50-100% more than before a dedome. This translates to a more defined, more intense hotspot, with less flood, exactly as you say. Also look out for a shift in tint, which normally becomes warmer, which I prefer. The shift is normally around 1000-1500K down, thus a 6500K LED will drop down to probably around 5000-5500K. The biggest negative around dedoming is (normally) the introduction of greenish colours in the tint. This is not always the case and the ‘degree of green’ normally depends on which tint you start off with and how that specific LED/dedome turns out, bit of a gamble.
I believe you’ll get more around 500-600 lumens, that is for a short period of time if you take into consideration the capabilities & capacity of the Efest 10440 (choose the Efest 10440 V1 and look at its review) compared to what the XP-G2 LED requires to give the relevant output.
Hope it helps…