advice on soldering led into a light with integrated shelf

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
21

Thanks for the toothpick idea. I’ll have to try that next time.

22

OH yes. It is. It didn’t even smoke or glow red :wink:
Thanks

23

≈4.107 years later…

Hello! :-)

Just to comment that I've had trouble soldering wires to emitter MCPCBs “down the hole”, using a 2.4mm chisel tip (Hakko T18-D24). Every time in these assemblies (a C8S, an M1 and an M2) I've resorted to solder wires to the MCPCB first, install the MCPCB in the cavity tucking in the wires, and then solder the wires to the driver. But it's a bit awkward, imho (or maybe it is just me leaving the wires rather short).

I find surprising some of you prefer chisel tips to solder the wires to the emitter in the cavity. Once the MCPCB is laying on the cavity shelf it sinks the heat quite fast so maybe I should find a way to avoid :???: this, or buy some really big arse “hoof” tip like a T18-C4.

In any case, I only have two tips (D24 and B) so I think it is time to at least get another. Thank God I've found compatible tips from other brands because I cannot find Hakko tips for affordable money where I live:

  1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000990046883.html ATTEN brand.
  2. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010782109.html Mechanic, like the solder paste.

Mechanic has some non-usual tips, like

this massive one. If the size figures are correct that is even thicker than a (Hakko) 4C.

Wellp, just wondering what should I get, and what should I change concerning my procedures.

24

Barkuti
I have had the same issues. I’m no expert by any means but here is my experience.

I have done the same as you and done wires to mcpcb pads, fed through the host and then soldered to driver. I had a time when I built about 20 convoy m21a’s all at the same time. Doing it the aforementioned way was easiest as I figured out the wire length needed on the first light, then I cut all the wires the proper length and then soldered all the wires to the mcpcbs. Getting the wire length just right and having something to hold the head and the driver for you (something like helping hands for the driver and anything that will hold the head at the right height for the driver and not let it roll away is good) are important steps. It’s even easier if your drivers have through holes where the + wire goes directly to the spring for the battery contact. That lets you tilt the driver super close for the negative wire and then do the positive wire after the driver is secured with the retaining ring.

I also have a hakko CF4 tip. If I do wires to driver and then mcpcb, I use it. It’s a big tip like the one you listed (mine is only tinned on the angle section though). It works really well too. I do like other people and hold the wire down with a small precision flathead screwdriver (the toothpick idea sounds good too though). Hold the wire in place, smash down with the big tip and everything is pretty much instantly melted together. You can get the wires shorter this way too. Short enough you can pretty quickly pop the wires off the driver by accident. Checking for shorts is important here but I have only ever had this happen with drivers that came from overseas and had the wires pre-attached. One down side to the tip is of course the size can make getting into certain places more tricky especially if you its deep and narrow.

I use both techniques and feel I have good results with both. Some drivers come with wires pre-attached and when this happens I use the big tip just so I have to fool with wires less. of course pre-tinned wires, pads, clean tip, flux, etc. all go a very long way too. That big tip is also awesome for solder blobs on flat top batteries.

I hope that helps.

P.S. My wife grew up in Riogordo, not terribly far from you I guess :slight_smile:

25

hello, after spending a lot of money in diferent tips i get an old and cheap ceramic tip with a old and cheap 60w soldering iron. i cut the tip at 90° and about 2mm diameter. pre solder led´s contacts and wires. keep the wire in place with a flat screwdriver and just a touch with the soldering iron from the screwdriver in line with the wire, side to side. perfect and flat solder, and cheap.

the C tips are 45° and at least in convoy L21A´s and C8´s doesn´t fit the angle that you can get.

hope you can understand my argentian english :smiley:

26

Thanks for the contribution Superstocker. So you came here for a vacation and found you had to take extra baggage? Not in the bad sense, of course. ;-)

I hear you Coyote2710, I would also prefer the tip to be less slanted but that is how they are made. A mallet head would be ideal.