Luckily for me, mine just didn’t work and I got refunded. I may at some point take the thing to bits to see why it won’t switch on. Or I may use it as a paperweight.
Since i received a couple D4 (Nichia and XPL) i almost forgot about this S42 fiasco. It’s sitting somewhere behind a number of other lights on a shelf… Whenever i need a light i just DONT pick this one!
Thank you all for warning me off this light. It’s a very nice looking light, and that 90CRI looks great, but I feel that I made the right decision with the D4.
Is there another driver out there i could order and drop in with little fumbling? I guess the side switch wont help…
Could the hight CRI Nichia led board be transplanted to the D4?
I find the beam of the A6 MUCH more useful than the S42. It seems brighter in person due to the beam profile (at least it does to me), but probably the S42 has slightly more lumens
I have the S42S (which is a SS version with a copper head), and the BLF A6, and the S42S is definitely brighter. However, you’re right that the A6 has a more useful beam, especially for outdoors. The S42S is extremely floody, and doesn’t have much throw. Great high CRI tint for indoors, or outdoors at modest distances. But I wouldn’t carry it outdoors if I needed any throw. The A6 has a very useful multi-purpose beam: floody, but with some useful throw.
Each light has its purpose, but the A6 is a more typical EDC light. I find the S42S is more of a “wow” light (with the Nichia 219 option), but not as good for EDC.
I need the precise dimensions of the S42 connection board holes
as well which voltage goes over the 2 rods and if another connection of the MCU board is required
just want to leave charging, but the old MCU disconnect so it has no standby current of 1mA because the breathing mode
I am so far with a driver, but cant finish it without this information