As of this morning haven’t heard anything yet. Quiet as a mouse in church peeing on a cotton ball.
On the one hand, there is sage advice in “don’t pry with a knife” and “a knife is a cutting tool” but that typically applies to EDC knives. On the other hand, bushcraft and survival knives are in another class where they should be expected to be used in different ways. As a result, those kinds of knives often have different construction and use different types of steel.
While the Bison should have sufficient stock thickness at 0.165”, I don’t know how thin it gets out towards the tip. While D2 can offer decent edge retention at the right hardness, it has relatively low toughness. (Take a look at the chart below. D2 is way down on the bottom left.) So while that might be okay in an EDC folder, it seems questionable in a bushcraft or survival knife.
Yes, D2, even well treated, is nowhere near ideal for bushcraft knives. In the above video, the tip broke in rotten wood with very light lateral stress 
Agreed about D2 & bushcraft, not the idea combination.
Most likely in the video the tip was in solid wood under the rotten, what happened was inevitable.
The guy just screwed up.
Then tip on the bison pierces like a hot knife through butter. Those couple of taps with the baton would have nailed the tip into hard wood and then pulled against the grain.
The knife is good for more delicate field work and even food prep. If you want a bushcraft beater get a condor or a mora.
Bob Dozier disagrees!
Chris
I guess Dozier knows how to treat his D2 and he also warns his customers 
He does and he’s been using D2 for 40+ years to good effect in the bushcraft realm.
D2 can rust, so taking along a silicone impregnated cloth, might be prudent, but a simple Arkansas stone is all you’ll need.
To me, bushcraft duties are akin to ‘campfire’ duties, so a 3”–4” blade should be sufficient.
If one needs to baton a bunch of kindling from limbs, for a fire, a bigger knife will be needed. Same with a knife needed for survival, where building a shelter, or hacking through vegetation is necessary.
D2 is fine for bushcraft duties, especially German D2, since the Germans make good stuff and know their steels. All bets are off with the Chinesium crap.
Chris
This is one for the people who live in the UK.
Has anyone bought pocket knives from China without any problems.
Will customs confiscate the knive?
For the money, a few years back, nothing could beat the Sanrenmu Land series of pocket knives. Decent steel, ball bearing pivots, just very high quality for the money. I bought a bunch of them. They are nearly indestructable.
My first thought too- D2 is too hard for hard use. Like my fixed blade ka-Bar Becker necker, made in 1095. Not the best steel obviously, but it has some give to it. Tough edged steel like D2 just has not lateral (?) strength to be bending and prying with. You want something that’s bend not snap.
What about this:
D2 is fine steel, about 12% Cr so often called “almost stainless” steel, at that much Cr it’s expected to be less strong than real Carbon-steels but it’s still pretty good compared with most stainless-steels. In fact I’m thinking of buying a D2 outdoor-knife, have my eye on the Real Steel Bushcraft III convex.
I have one Chinese D2 budget knife, a HX Outdoors ZD-031. The steel on that one is excellent but these knives were not the cheapest back then, I have no way to confirm real D2 and it does seems a bit to much stainless but it is simply very good steel. I just wanted to try one of those China-fantastic’s so bought this one to play with: too thick and heavy for my liking so I rarely use it, it is shaving-sharp and flips and falls shut super smooth thou.
Lower hardness can be helpful if more toughness is needed. Going softer on D2 might gain a little toughness but also trades away a lot of the edge retention that makes it an attractive steel in the first place. Based on just a few tests I’ve seen from other QSP knives, they run their D2 around 58-59 HRC. Another potential issue could be the purity or consistency of the Chinese D2. We know from LTK’s XRF testing that the composition can vary on Chinese D2.
The German K110 should be better in that respect. The bad reputation on Chinese D2 has given Petrified Fish, Bestech, and a few other brands that usually use it a reason to start importing K110. Either way, the toughness is still only around 5ft/lb at 60HRC. I’d rather avoid these issues in the first place and use a steel like 14C28N. Aside from being much more stainless, 14C28N has roughly six times the toughness at similar hardness!
BTW, if you don’t mind messing up your knives then you can do a mustard test for D2. The steels used by unscrupulous companies to substitute for D2 are usually 3Cr13, 5Cr15, or 8Cr13Mov. All of those steels are notably more stainless. After thoroughly cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, you can put a blob of yellow mustard on the blade for an hour and see what happens. I recently tested this on satin finishes at around 68 degrees Fahrenheit . At just over an hour, Walmart’s Organic Yellow Mustard left a permanent gray mark in the shape of the blob on D2 but wiped away pretty cleanly from 8Cr13Mov.
If there are any sword guys out there , Vipon has some coupons for swords on Amazon.
I wanna see how people EDC their swords. 
I use the bread you can buy for a long sub sandwich . You can order 3 to 6 foot lengths from most bakeries.
For a slim knife like a bayonet, regular French bread works fine . A loaf of Italian is perfect for Bowie knives.
And you always have a snack handy if you EDC in bread
Bwana I like your style!
“I wanna see how people EDC their swords.”
Bought quite a few over the last few years, without a hitch; however I’ve bought nothing since brexit and would be worried about BF, since they’re confiscating (perfectly legal) CO2 air pistol imports, claiming they’re imitation firearms (they’re not imitation firearms, by law they’re real firearms, you just don’t need an FAC).